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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK after "I lost track of time" hours of reading this forum, I am hoping to get a clear concise answer to this: I recently bought a 02 eclipse gt spyder, this makes my second 3g. I now own two 3gcars. Anyways I got the car for a steal, Just need to replace the engine. I want to get the absolute most power I can While keeping in mind that I am not rich. I have gathered all the parts I feel nessasery for this swap. I am going to list them below, Would be greatly appreciated if I can get some feedback on weather or not I need the part I list or not. My ENTIRE list is comprised from club3g threads. However all the threads are old so Im hoping to make a new more updated thread. Once I get the parts list Finalized. I am going to make a new thread with pictures on a step by step for this engine swap. Here we go: btw.. its a 5 speed manual and I am using parts from 3 different engines.

2006 galant v6 3.8 65kmiles
Stage 2 clutch
lightweight flywheel
Catback exhaust

6g72-- the original eclipse gt 3.0l engine parts:
alternator
distributer
power steering pump
crank sensor
flexplate
lower belt tensioner bracket
motor mount brackets

6g74-- 98 diamante v6 3.5l engine parts:
alternator bracket
a/c bracket
upper power steering bracket
timing covers ALL 3
harmonic balancer
throttle body
fuel rails
upper intake manifold
lower intake manifold
throttle cable bracket
coolant manifold

6g75--- 06 galant gts v6 3.8l non-mivec engine parts:
wiring harness
305cc injectors
heads
cams
belts

if anybody can correct me if I am wrong or add more to the list or even send me links to more info, many thanks.
 

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I don't mean to come off sounding like an ass, but I am sure most will take it that way.

First I feel as though this is the beginning of a build/swap thread, that should probably be located in the members ride section.

But on the other hand you state that you are going to post photos and a step by step process in a "new thread"

So in turn, this sort of seems like you want people to look through your list and point out flaws, things you missed, or items you may/will not need.

If that is the case, the thread should be closed as ANY and ALL info needed is posted in the 27 pages located in this thread:
http://www.club3g.com/forum/eclipse-performance/71416-3-8-6g75-swap-discussion.html
 

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UMADBREH?
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So, I should use the 75 uim and not the 74? What is the reasoning.. I have both so this is not a problem.. Just wondering the reasoning.. Thanks
The 75 manifold was designed for the ...GASP! 6G75. Therefore it will breathe and perform better.

Eric, you mean, arrogant asshole, this post should be in the New Members thread. I believe he is just wanting to clarify his parts list is correct with the right parts needed for the swap.

:wub:
 

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2011's are gay
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few squirts of wd40 or penetrating oil in each cylinder from the top, try to get it where the rings contact the walls. i've had to loosen up a few motors and it worked wonders, you'll burn in off in a few miles so no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The battery is fine.. I will try the wd40 tomorrow... We were thinking.. The reluctor wheel.. I never read to replace it with the 72 so I never thought of that.. What is the opinion of the experts on here.. Also I'm fairly certain my timing belt is way too tight.. Let me know.. Thanks.. I've got lots of info on this swap for dos and don'ts.. What you ACCUALLY need and don't need... The list going around is pretty vegue on the fabrications and all.. Just waiting to get her fired up b4 I post my article.. Any help
Would be great! Thanks in advance


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2011's are gay
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Would that cause this problem?.. The whole slow crank "trying to start" thing?.. It's crazy cuz on the turn key it jumps up to like 2k... Which I'm guessing is causing the ecu to read like it's running when it's not..


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i would assume that the ecu is reading thsat your crank is in the wrong position and cutting fuel. as far as a slow crank, the only thing i can thing of is a bad power supply or the whole wd40 thing, though thats more for when it won't move hardly at all, but i'd still try it.
 

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The reluctor wheel on the '75 crank sprocket has like 1000 teeth compared to the '72 which has three. These tell the ECU to tell the coil to fire. Three teeth+two crank revolutions per cam revolution=six firing events for six cylinders. The insidious thing about it is, I believe the CPS from the '75 will physically plug into the '72 harness and will probably even recognize the highs and lows of the reluctor wheel. So basically it's trying to fire many more times than it's supposed to.

I applaud you for getting the motor in but it's been Basic 6G75 Swap 101 since the beginning...

Slow cranking can absolutely be caused by this. Firing spark while on the compression stroke will slow things down quite a bit. I found this out while jacking with the timing in my Camaro (old school haha). Advance it too far and yeah, the motor fights itself. What you've got is a motor firing spark a few times per rev on all strokes.

The reason your revs are showing high (2xxx) is because of the same reason: wrong wheel.

EDIT: also, you've got to use the '72 crank sensor with the wheel. And I forgot to address the timing belt, and since you're going to have to pull it anyway I can offer some tips: First, you don't have to pull the motor mount at all. The belt isn't coming off all the way so don't even jack with it. Second, use a BIG ASS screwdriver to pry between the tensioner bracket and tensioner pully, all the while reaching up and sliding your grenade pin (or small allen key like I do since I always lose the pin) and pry till you can move it easily in and out. Be careful not to pull it all the way out because if it's out, and you slip with the screwdriver, you're in trouble. Once it's there, let go of the pin, grab the ratchet with a 14mm ready to go, set for tightening, and tighten your bolt. Then stop prying and check your pin again for free movement. Then manually rotate the crank through a few revolutions, line your timing marks back up, check your pin movement again, and if it's still good, AND the timing marks line up, pull that sucker and keep going.

What are you tuning with anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Please allow me to elaborate.. Port and polished heads and manifolds, gasket matched and valve job as well, bigger throttle body.. As well as matched that so I don't have a "damn effect".. Stage 2 clutch as well as lightweight flywheel .. Used 75 uim.. Cold air intake.. Prothane mounts everywhere.. So..... I may not reach 300 but I damn well know it's over 215.. Thanks


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