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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, first time poster and long time lurker!

Sadly my first post is one based of trouble. I have a 2003 Spyder GTS with the Automatic. She currently just hit 150k. I drove her home from work last night and everything was fine, nothing odd. Went back to her this morning to go to work and she started right up everything seemed normal until I put it in reverse and it didnt move. Also got nothing from any forward gear...

The dash shows its moving between gears, also I get a small RPM surge when put in N and Park.

I AM able to get her moving but only when I rev it up to around 2100-2500, I get a small light jerk and she starts moving. It does this in both reverse and drive as well as triptronic.

I checked my fluid and it was not empty, a bit low though. Yes I did check it hot after running through all gears. I went and added a third of a quart and it shows no difference.

At this point I am going to take her 7miles to the nearest Transmission shop and get a free checkup done to see what they think.

You guys have any ideas? I just find it very strange that it didnt give me any signs at all last night or ever... was totally fine and it was about a 35mile trip. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah this is no good. I drove it to the nearest transmission shop. They just did a free look at it and said its bad. I was quoted around 2200. The crappy thing is that I have only had the car for about 2000 miles or so and I have no history on the timing belt. So I am hesitant to pay out for the tranny when the T-belt could be stock at over 150k...

The shop said they would give me a combo price for the T-belt and Tranny. Somewhere around 2800-3000.

Just dont know if its worth it. It was my wifes car so might be time to call it quits and get her something newer.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so a bit of a update on this. I had to pick the car up from the shop and get it home. The car WILL drive. You have to rev up to around 2k to get it to start moving but it will drive. The N light on the dash is flashing and she is stuck in limp mode. The thing that I find weird is that it will drive ok once moving. I drove it all the way home like this (about 10miles) If the pump was destroyed due to the spring I shouldnt be moving at all correct??? Its not like its grinding or anything its just in limp mode, when its in third it will even haul if I mash it down. I just wanted to make sure you guys dont think it could be something electrical.
 

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For whatever reason, I didn't read this too closely...
Reminds me of the problem I had on my car. Faulty speed sensor caused me to go in limp mode, and caused jerks when I tried to put it in gear. Sensor is easy to access once you pull the battery and battery tray out.
Might be worth looking into.

What codes does your car have?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dont have any codes :( I live in a remote area and the nearest bishi dealership is about a hour away. Kinda out in the sticks. I would take the car but being in limp mode I dont want to take it on the highway. Third gear is revving around 4k at like 60mph so at 75+ on freeway would really be pushing her harder then I would like. And if she goes down that far from home im stuck with a big tow bill. I am looking into this input sensor as I am reading alot about it online. Trouble is finding one in stock around here. Being close to the D its hard to find imports :(
 

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Easy way to check to see if its your pump. Pop one of the cooling lines off the radiator and puts into a bottle. Start the car, see if its moving any fluid.
 

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I dont have any codes :( I live in a remote area and the nearest bishi dealership is about a hour away. Kinda out in the sticks. I would take the car but being in limp mode I dont want to take it on the highway. Third gear is revving around 4k at like 60mph so at 75+ on freeway would really be pushing her harder then I would like. And if she goes down that far from home im stuck with a big tow bill. I am looking into this input sensor as I am reading alot about it online. Trouble is finding one in stock around here. Being close to the D its hard to find imports :(
Doesn't have to be a dealership. Most auto parts stores will check codes for free. Or you can go out in a second vehicle and just pick up a code reader. Handy buggers.
I pulled mine from the yard, from a 4G64 automatic. 4 dollars, easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
we are going to put the new input sensor in tonight. All Autozones near me didnt have the one for my car, however they did have the one for the seabring. Same engine, same platform, and the sensor looks EXACTLY the same so I assume it will work. I will update with the results. I got the OK from the wife, if this fixes it we are taking her in for a wave spring replacement, as well as new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, ect...

I will be very happy if goes that way as I do really like the car and do have history with it. Thanks for all the support so far guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so update! I replaced the old sensor with the new one. Now when the car is running and I shift into Drive or Reverse all I get is a loud buzzing from the engine bay, it appears to be coming from the new sensor or about the same location. Its a very strong buzz and is the same everytime I change into a gear, the duration is always the same and same volume. The car will no longer move if revved up like it would do with the old sensor. Also the Flashing N on my dash is gone...

This leads me to think it was the sensor but maybe the one I got at autozone (for the seabring) is the wrong one? Thats the only thing I can think of... I plan to do some more testing around on sunday and if its not fixed then order the actual one for the car from them to see what that gets me.

Anyone ever heard of this buzzing before or have any ideas? If it matters I did not reinstall the battery tray. I didnt want to put it all back togather until I made sure the sensor fixed it so I just sat the battery in there and tested it, I didnt see any ground points to the tray I would be missing.
 

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Try it with the tray on. And this might be a long shot but maybe your cat is clogged? I had it happen to an accord of mine and after I replaced the tranny too ?

I would say just remove the downpipe and see if it runs.
 

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Highly likely they sold you the wrong sensor.
The Sebring Sedans and convertibles had a completely different drivetrain from our cars. I'm pretty sure they share 0 parts.
The exception is that Sebring coupe.

Really just need to find out what they sold you. Was the sensor the same shape and the like?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Physically the sensor looks EXACTLY the same, the bolt hole lines up and the plug snapped on ok it seemed. To the naked eye they appear the exact same. I will ordering one in the morning for this car from them so hopefully thats all it is.

I have to admit I am feeling better that changing the sensor has altered what the car is doing, at least I feel like its not a full failure yet lol.

Will keep updated!
 

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Ok so update! I have fixed the buzzing! I was very smart and unhooked the connector to the air filter housing and forgot to plug it back in as i needed to move it. Once I reconnected it everything was back to how it was. The bad news however is that this new sensor does the exact same thing as the old one. The car will still move, but only at 3000+ rpm. Is there any chance at all this is just a clogged filter and the fluid cant get through? Never done a change on this car but we have only had it for about 3000miles.
 
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