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Discussion Starter #1
I am removing the aftermarket CD player the previous owner had installed. I have the original infinity HU. The installer of the new HU used the adapters suggested in several threads here. So I pulled my aftermarket out and I tried to hook up the antenna, 14PIN, DIN, and the other smaller PIN for display thinking I was in the clear- It wouldn't turn on. I heard what briefly sounded like the unit trying to eject a cd right when I initially plugged in the 14PIN, but other than that, I got no other indication that the unit was on (or even powered), no display on dash, no noise from speakers, nothing...Here are a few things that might be the cause, but I'm no expert.
1. the aftermarket was grounded- Does the stock have a spot to connect a ground? Sitting here typing, I don't think i ever remounted the unit when testing, just had it hooked up and kind of propped up/dangling so if it needs to be mounted to ground...?
2. the aftermarket was powered from 12v source straight to the HU, not through any adapter(previous install didn't use spot on adapter..not sure why.) Does the 14PIN carry the 12v?
3. The infinity unit has another DIN input (cd changer?), but I don't have the changer, can i leave this unoccupied?
3. As i obviously wasn't the owner who replaced the stock unit, i can't be sure it works, but it was in the trunk, so why keep a junked radio?? It is possible though that the POS doesn't even work.


2003 spyder GT
Yeah that's about all...
Oh one more thing, Thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The aftermarket doesn't really give me anything extra as i have no intention of upgrading other components, I can't use my wheel controls, and from what I've read, stock doesn't sound all that bad, maybe even better than new HU + OEM everything else.
I plan on keeping the old adapters for when i have more $/time to do it all the right way(re-wire and upgrade all components).
 

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(b)org banugee
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You have to call the 888 number (it's floating around here somewhere -- search for it). Give them the serial number in the stock HU, and they will give you the unlock code. It won't do much without the code.

You can leave alone the extra DIN -- just make sure you have the correct one plugged in.

The DIN does NOT carry the 12V. That comes from the rectangular wiring dongle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll try entering the code.

I didn't try that because a lot of threads on this say something like, "it said to enter code" or "it asks for a code" but I'm pretty sure that my display showed only the time, and the Mode button did nothing...so I wasn't sure if i had made it that far...
 

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I'll try entering the code.

I didn't try that because a lot of threads on this say something like, "it said to enter code" or "it asks for a code" but I'm pretty sure that my display showed only the time, and the Mode button did nothing...so I wasn't sure if i had made it that far...
I believe the 03+ do not require a code. I know my 03 GTS didn't need one. Does your HU look like this?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK so I called the dealership and they told me that one, my cd player doesn't require a code, and two, even if it did, it would display "CODE" in the display- which it doesn't. I am starting to think that the cd player is junk...probably no way to test but it sure as hell isn't working. What I want to aviod is getting another factory replacement and realize it to "does not work" and ending up with two working factory cd players that really do work, just not with my plugs.
I can take pictures if that helps, but it is a pretty simple job, plug in 2 dongles(1 big 1 small), one din, and the antenna. I mean unless previous owner modified the dongles??
A few things I didn't mention...the aftermarket setup had some alternator whine and I have replaced the 3" center speaker with an aftermarket 3"5 w/dash mod...none of which would i expect to keep the cd player from working.

Are the single and 6dsk changer interchangeable? Could I get a 6 and expect it to fit?
 

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(b)org banugee
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It sounds like your constant power is on, but your switched power is not. The constant power that maintains the memory also allows you to eject a disc while the car is off. I think it's time you pulled the unit out and tested the pins on the stock wiring dongle with a multimeter. If the previous owner had his HU powered with a separate line, there's probably a reason for it. Also, I'm pretty sure the ground on the stuck HU is it's own case. When I wired up my Pioneer, I had to use the HVAC's fan control resistor pack's mounting lug for the ground. Others have used other creative solutions.

The switched power for the factory HU is on pin 10 of the stock wiring dongle. That's the one you need to test against ground (I guess you can just use the metal frame the unit screws into inside the dash or some other known good ground).

Constant power comes in on pin 11. You know that works because of the eject noise (and also because your dome light probably still works).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
citm2000 - right on the money...if i am reading dongle pin numbers correctly this is looking straight on.-
123 456
14131211 10987
I know the redw/white stripe is always on (which was #11 in above)
whitew/black stripe(#10 above) never has power, no ACC, not running.

this seems to be confirmed by http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/GR00000600-90.pdf pg 270.

So where do i go from here?
Do i figure out why this isn't getting ACC but is getting constant??
Do i snip the whitew/black stripe behind the dongle, and connect it to the power source the aftermarket was running on?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK so I went back out and traced the ACC whitew/blk stripe from the dongle all the back to the ignition, but realy have no idea why it isn't working. I was very tempted to, as i said in my last post, just snip the white/blk behind the dongle and connect it to the ACC line that was running the aftermarket = a working dongle. BUT I don't want to do any damage before someone on here says "that should work" or the opposite, "don't do that". So let me hear some thoughts.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just checked it, it was fine but i replaced it anyways while i was in there- Still no power. Appreciate the suggestion though.

Got any more ideas?
I get the feeling you aren't thrilled about the idea of me snipping the power behind the dongle and routing it to the other ACC wire that was used to power the aftermarket. To be honest I really can't think of anything else to try, but I'm still open to suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This might be a dumb and i don't have time to get back to test it now but....I wonder if this fuse could be blown.
Engine compartment fuse 23 Ignition switch (ACC) 10 Red - ETACS-ECU, motor antenna assembly, radio, tape player, and CD player. I guess it's worth checking.
 

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(b)org banugee
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I can't find the damned splice points in the service manual. That's how you would test it going back to the source.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
IT'S ALIVE!!!

Summary:
I removed an aftermarket headunit. While uninstalling it, I noticed that whoever had installed it bypassed the red power lead from the aftermarket adapter connected to the dongle, instead using a seperate lead from ignition ACC. Didn't think anything of it at the time. So installed my factory infinity only to find it not working...but I could eject CD's. Come to find out, the reason the cd player wasn't working was that there was no power coming through the 10 pin (whitew/black) on the dongle when tested w/ multimeter- hence the bypass. Fuse #1 in the interior compartment was ok. So I went back through the circuit diagram and noticed that a blown fuse @ Fuse #23 10a red in the engine compartment could be the problem. It was the problem. Replacing this fuse was not a lot of fun as it was inside a yellow, for the lack of a better knowledge, holder thing that was very narrow and couldn't be reached by any of the fuse pullers I have. I'm sure there is a tool for getting these fuses out. Anyways, you first have to pull up (but not off or out!) the yellow piece up to disconnect #23 and #22. I then had to use a needlenose and tiny flathead screwdriver to get the fuse out of its holder. It was like getting the wishbone out of the operation dude. But it fixed my problem. So if you are having problems with power to the radio dongle, CHECK FUSE #23 UNDER THE HOOD!
Thanks to all those who responded to my call for help, I appreciate it and so do my ears :fever:.
 

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(b)org banugee
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You already have the special tool. Needle-nosed pliers. That's the only way I know. Glad to hear you got it working.
 
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