[Trailerparkunderdogg]

I'm new here not sure how this works but update (I changed everything from every sensor to fuel pump finally got new crank sensor (car ran perfectly half the day I'd say about 90 Miles so thought I was in the clear out of nowhere around 1 am car slowly starts surging and shut off wouldn't start again and stay idling had get towed back home currently waiting on new crank sensor I bought the (steel crank sensor this time ) for my 2002 eclipse GS 2.4 I have the one with the weird crank sensor plate any suggestions or anything anyone knows why these sensors keep failing? I completely fixed everything else no codes at all just the crank sensor and like this is the third one total for me the guy before me I believe had same issue he put a cheaper one on just for me to drive it to the end of the road and back (not to mention he tried cut the cats off half way through the pipe before I got there 😂 I didn't notice til it broke and I had reweld it but one of the bolts is messing out crank cover guessing that's because he changed it before I got there so I'm about 1700 dollars into this car I don't Wana give up on it and I Wana deticate it to my son that passed and put a Decal his face on it started repainting it no rust everything is new just (the crank sensors keep failing? could this be the plate is bad causing this it does have scratches on it ? someone that has worked on 2002 GS 2.4 please add me on something I can talk more directly to them idk if you can message on here but my s.c is underdoggrome I'm actually a musician and own a business but I'm currently stuck bc this is my only ride ATM and I'm really losing alot bc I can't figure this out my fb is Daniel Romesburg Sr Trailerparkunderdogg thank you 🙏

 

[jelazar]

could this be the plate is bad causing this it does have scratches on it ?

It doesn't matter if the crankshaft reluctor wheel is scratched or dirty. The sensor will still read it.

Now, if the crankshaft reluctor wheel is bent, it can impact the position sensor and damage it. Also, it's possible for the crankshaft reluctor wheel to come loose from the crankshaft sprocket. That causes intermittent timing problems.

It could also be that the sensor is fine, but the wiring harness is the problem.

 

[Trailerparkunderdogg]

ok cool yeah I was thinking it might be bent bc I guess the kid before me changed the belt bc the belt went also there's good bit of oil under there it seems to me coming from the hydraulic but my dad said he thinks it was running down from the vavle cover I've noticed in the trunk two brand new seals there's two in the pack ones a tad bit bigger then the other not open I didn't know where they good they are marked skoilseal on the box so when I tried find it on line it's coming up main seal in the back but they done like the same so their coming from the crank somewhere where I'm guessing the oil is coming from witch I thought could be messing with the recluctor wheel I just can't figure out what would take out three sensors as I said it ran like crap I replaced (everything) and when I put the new crank sensor on I only got a cheap one for like 15 bucks it ran all day long fine and the after about 90 Miles it just surged shut off fired slowly a couple times then literally would fire again another thing I can't seem to figure out is the throttle positioning sensor is this where you just take the old one off replace it and it learnes over til bc all the way to the passenger side it idles higher but if in the middle it was to stall out I can see that it has power to the sensors but can't tell how much when the crank sensor went I was trapped along the road all night til am and a couple drunk dudes from the bar tried to help but one stuck a pin in the crank sensor clip and I saw it spark almost like when a fuse blows now I'm not getting full power in the old sensor I'm hoping he just fried the circuit board on the sensor but this same person stripped out the (idle screw on the throttle body so I been having issues finding the correct set for that screw also even tho all codes are gone but the crank sensor ( I keep getting on the live data that the evap is incorrect but (no codes only on the live I replaced the purge valve solenoid bc the old on the little beed that has the hole in it at the bottom some how broke off and traveled up my vaccum line about four inches,idk if a bad O2 sensor could through that code but yeah I had three codes (incorrect purge valve,bad oil/fuel temperature,and crank sensor after replacing the fuel pump,all bugs wires every sensor the only code is the crank sensor and everything went away and didn't come besides that crank sensor this is the first eclipse I had that had issues like this I was reading that the steel crank sensors don't fail as much that's why I went that route any experience with them ? also I didn't watch them take the harmonic balancer pully off does this need lined up ? bc I didn't know that was the harmonic balancer pully til about hour ago and neither did the people took that of so they just took it off with the four bolts and put it back on that way ? idk sorry for being all over the place bro just going through alot and had alot stolen off me I'm really running out of Cash and time it's soon guna be Snowing and harder for me to make money 😆

 

[jelazar]

Focus on fixing the crankshaft position sensor and getting the car to start. I wouldn't worry about the oil leaks right now, the evap code, the idle screw, or the harmonic balancer. The throttle position sensor does not learn, and has to be set to the right idle, but you can do that later. Those are all secondary problems.

Ok, so your main problem is a crank/no-start condition, right? And you're still getting the P0335, right? That's the crankshaft position sensor system. Check that the crankshaft sprocket and reluctor are mated together properly, and that the reluctor is not bent and hitting the sensor. Also, the sensor is just one part of that system. So check the sensor connector, and the wiring from the sensor to the ECM. You can even run new temporary wiring from the sensor pigtail to the ECM/PCM, if that's easier.

Also, Saint Paul can get away with one giant long stream of words, but the rest of us can't. I'm not trying to be the grammar police; it's just that 500+ words without a single period is very hard to follow and people will tend to just scroll on by. You're more likely to get help if you take a few extra minutes to organize your thoughts.

 

[Trailerparkunderdogg]

Focus on fixing the crankshaft position sensor and getting the car to start. I wouldn't worry about the oil leaks right now, the evap code, the idle screw, or the harmonic balancer. The throttle position sensor does not learn, and has to be set to the right idle, but you can do that later. Those are all secondary problems.

Ok, so your main problem is a crank/no-start condition, right? And you're still getting the P0335, right? That's the crankshaft position sensor system. Check that the crankshaft sprocket and reluctor are mated together properly, and that the reluctor is not bent and hitting the sensor. Also, the sensor is just one part of that system. So check the sensor connector, and the wiring from the sensor to the ECM. You can even run new temporary wiring from the sensor pigtail to the ECM/PCM, if that's easier.

Also, Saint Paul can get away with one giant long stream of words, but the rest of us can't. I'm not trying to be the grammar police; it's just that 500+ words without a single period is very hard to follow and people will tend to just scroll on by. You're more likely to get help if you take a few extra minutes to organize your thoughts.

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sorry bro every since my son passed away I'm like a big ball of anxiety and stress and ramble it messed my mind up.But I appreciate it so update (I replaced everything and it would not stay running til I replaced the crank sensor again.So I replaced the crank sensor.Everything ran great and I drove all day for about 150 miles.I thought it was fixed so 1 am came and I was heading to work and car started surging and I had to keep flooring it to stay running,once it started surging I got about two or three miles and it died so it would start up and I'd get a couple feet out the driveway and it would die , Eventually it wouldn't stay started long enough to put in gear ⚙.Then it would crank fire and soon as I let off the gas it die,Then eventually it would crank no start,So I had to get a tow back wait for eBay again and I put another crank sensor on ran perfectly all day!Ran about the same amount of time maybe a tad longer but eventually the same thing happened.Something is causing the crank sensor to fail and we can't figure it out everything is replaced and I'm on the fourth crank sensor and second starter (oh before the crank sensor goes out completely uselly I get a code for (multiple random misfiring) then the sensor fails unless their the same thing?also I replaced almost everything on the EVAP system and it still says incorrect.also I swear I can hear a vacuum leak somewhere but I've tried the smoke test ,water soap test every thing can't find it.The headgasket was replaced so maybe the manifold gasket was put in wrong.im trying to contact previous owner I believe he changed the crank sensor a few times I know it was replaced and has a missing bolt in the timing cover might be why he sold it knew it was guna run enough for a test drive (but I'm not trying to argue with the person I already bought it arguing won't help I'm just trying to get the truth and what issues he had with it ) but yeah crank sensor keeps going out in trying to get a steel replacement crank sensor instead of plastic l.Idk if maybe the crank sensor plate is bent or something or it's not fully in time but from what we can tell it's in time maybe I can upload pictures and someone can catch a error I ain't noticing..

 

[Trailerparkunderdogg]

update I changed the crank sensor,the timing belt,the angle blade for crank sensor,the cam sensor,made sure it was in time and was told it's four revaluations and it rand for about 140 miles thought it was fixed again and slowly start surgeing and acting like it's out of gas and eventually stopped altogether again lol also I changed all the wiring harness female ends bc two was bad 😞 ugh I don't Wana get rid of this car but I'm running out of ideas my dad said he had a maf in his car that he changed everything and couldn't figure it out and it ended up being the mass air flow can a mass air flow being bad cause a bad crank sensor circuit a code to come up? (this is the only code that keeps coming up ? I just replaced the battery and starter and fuel pump as well or could a bad coil pack? sometimes rarely it throws a multiple random misfiring code then the crank sensor circuit a code but lately it's just the crank sensor circuit a code bad ground? idk I'm lost someone please give me a idea there's a guy that has a forum on here named Ian my car is (doing exactly the same thing his is doing ) although his problem didn't fix my problem

 

[jelazar]

A bad MAF will not cause a crank sensor code. A crank sensor code is only caused by a problem with the crank sensor system and its wiring, or perhaps the cam sensor and its wiring.

If it was me, I'd run new wiring from the crankshaft sensor to the ECM and the MFI relay and see if that helps. You may have a poor ground or damaged wires. The next thing I'd check is the quality of the crank sensors you've been buying. If they're a super-econo brand, they may be failing due to engine heat or something. I don't think OEM is necessary, but I'd spend $30-$40 on a name brand sensor like NGK.

 

[Sisyphus58]

A bad MAF will not cause a crank sensor code. A crank sensor code is only caused by a problem with the crank sensor system and its wiring, or perhaps the cam sensor and its wiring.

If it was me, I'd run new wiring from the crankshaft sensor to the ECM and the MFI relay and see if that helps. You may have a poor ground or damaged wires. The next thing I'd check is the quality of the crank sensors you've been buying. If they're a super-econo brand, they may be failing due to engine heat or something. I don't think OEM is necessary, but I'd spend $30-$40 on a name brand sensor like NGK.

hey Jelazar, other than faulty wiring, do you think the alternator/voltage regulator might be the problem, causing the sensor to burn out prematurely? It would suck to spend even more money on a quality brand sensor only to have it once again burn out after 100 miles. I think he should get his alternator checked for consistent voltage and no spiking, along with running new wiring as you suggested…

 

[jelazar]

hey Jelazar, other than faulty wiring, do you think the alternator/voltage regulator might be the problem, causing the sensor to burn out prematurely? It would suck to spend even more money on a quality brand sensor only to have it once again burn out after 100 miles. I think he should get his alternator checked for consistent voltage and no spiking, along with running new wiring as you suggested…

Sure, checking the alternator sounds like a reasonable next step, and it's free.