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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!

(2001 GT Auto)

So I figured out why the car wouldn't even try to catch. My spark was way off timing. Looked at the dizzy and it was not even put all the way in lol. It is hard to set with the cap on into the cam.

I searched and saw instructions by Silver about cranking the engine TDC and then setting TDC on the rotor.

I did that and now the car will start and die immediately with weird sounds, white smoke out the exhaust (very little the car hasn't been started or had parts in it for 16 days), smell of burnt fuel or something burning.

So with the dizzy. I put the brass looking piece to 5 o clock but the mitsubishi sign (at 11o clock) is upside down. Would that mean the mitsu sign should face 5 o clock to for cylinder 1 TDC???

I have a vid here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ghgvfsuhch4o16n/video-1453350890.mp4.mp4?dl=0
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Okay sense no one appears to know, can anyone answer this?

1. Which way does the mitsubishi sign (opposite of the brass piece) face on the rotor to the distributor?

I know TDC is cylinder one on a compression stroke. The rotor can make the distributor go in two ways, either the logo or brass piece facing 5 o clock or 11 o clock. Which "clock" is the mistubishi logo going to face?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now I see why no one replied. Obviously you want the spark to start at 1 so you face it toward spark plug one at 5 o clock. /Thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ihxakdkm4...ew=12528749_1089287034448658_1800742722_o.jpg

Nah same shit and I know the timing is correct. It may be my spark plugs since I haven't changed them since I got the car (4 years ago 120k miles/160k now).

The longer I leave it on by tapping throttle it'll try and idle and then die. Bunch of misfires as you can hear.

Setting TDC:
https://www.dropbox.com/home/car?preview=video-1453529634.mp4.mp4

Set the rotor like this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ihxakdkm4wgxizq/12528749_1089287034448658_1800742722_o.jpg?dl=0

Here's a pic of one, they all look like this and when I first pulled them out oil was all over it.


I was gonna get new plugs and wires tomorrow NGK Iridiums. The spark test also showed yellow spark (weak?).

Spark plug:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z3wicitwxxcf4r1/12632900_1089287107781984_1019549929_o.jpg?dl=0

Spark plug test vid:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9yx1gdqczp8cq8e/video-1453529643.mp4.mp4?dl=0

Resetting computer and starting:
https://www.dropbox.com/home/car?preview=video-1453350890.mp4.mp4

Code I keep getting of course:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2v93oas7gq0fgzh/12632990_1089286821115346_1081508113_o.jpg?dl=0
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sorry about links dropbox wont allow direct image link. I replaced my headgaskets and timing belt. I reinstalled the distributor wrong and would try and crank the car but my hydraulic tensioner wasnt on right and i skipped 3 teeth. Took it off and fixed it and then realized the distributor wasnt even in right. Fixed that and the car does whats in the last video. The longer i try and keep it up the more normal it sounds i guess but its misfiring like crazy. Some mechanics telling me change the plugs and wires if valves were seriously bent car wouldnt even run and some are saying plugs might not be the issue. Sounds like more than 2 cylinders misfiring. Bent valves? Cant the car still run on bent valves? Gonna replace plugs and wires today. If valves are bent im literally going to stick a screwdriver in them and bend them back and water test to fit. Aint trying to put too much more in a car i need for a year. Parents will get me something else later.

Edit: There was a shitload of smoke and a burnt smell coming from under the hood when I first ran it. Yesterday no smoke but still slight burning smell. Only oil leak i see is a small one from the drainplug. Engine shakes a lot girl said front head shakes but my motor mounts are blown as well lol.
 

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This, folks, is why you don't touch an engine if you have no clue what you're doing.

1) The distributor only fits one way. Look at the notches in the cam. You physically CAN'T fit the distributor in 180*.

2) If the car wasn't running when the belt skipped then I doubt you bent valves as the starter generally will not have the strength to bend valves.

3) Double check that your timing marks are lined up. The notch for the crank and notches in the valve covers for the cams are your timing marks. Rotate the engine by hand twice to verify that the engine keeps timing and that you have adequate belt tension.

4) If the timing is on, the distributor is installed correctly, and you still have poor running conditions, compression test your engine. You replaced head gaskets as well and judging by your lack of experience/knowledge thus far, I'd be concerned if they hold compression and are torqued properly. A lack of compression will definitely cause a misfire.

5) If any of the cylinders will not hold compression and the heads are torqued/sealing properly, you bent valves and need the heads rebuilt/replaced. Sticking a screwdriver in to try and bend them back will only damage your heads/lower intake. If you somehow managed to break free a stuck valve and get it moving again, imagine how much wear the valve guide/seal would experience.

Engines aren't just some tinker toys you can rig shit together on to "make 'em work". They're full of finely machined pieces down to the thousands of an inch. Your idea of rigging it to potentially work for another year is appalling. You would never have been in this situation if you had the appropriate knowledge and tools for the job in the first place. Best of luck to you and I hope no one I know ends up with this mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah dude what the fuck is this forum for if you have to be a "mechanic" to work on your car. I came here to find a tutorial and do some research before starting. I know my torque specs and followed them. Dont shit on my knowledge because I mis-understood the distributor. Did you not watch the fucking video where I lined my timing marks? The problem was the hydraulic tensioner not being installed correctly.

Secondly I can definitely bend a valve back with a screwdriver idgaf what you think. The car is 15 years old its not here forever..

Thank you for the information I pretty much posted already. I said if my fucking timing is on and fuel injectors are working than its either plugs/wires, bad gasket placement, bent valves. I asked if anyone could tell that if even my old plugs and wires were installed correctly if it should he misfiring this bad? Sounds like valves. Just wanted confirmation before I rip the two fucking heads out again.

You are useless you repeated the same shit I explained. If you cant tell from the video then fucking say that and move on.


Edit: obviously I would rip the heads out and then bend the valves and water test them, not with the head in the fucking car..
 

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Please explain how you'll bend the valve back with a screw driver, I'd like to hear this one. Like how do you keep it from spinning when you push on the bent side or how do you know it's straight enough to seal correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You simply slide the screwdriver all the way down to levy it. Or close the valve, hammer it gently, turn it and hammer it till its closed. Theres so many videos of ******* rigging it. Not even a worry anymore parents told me I can choose a car 15k and under! :)
 
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