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Ok, Turkey Day has passed... What's the dealie?! Interested to hear more about your progress!
Well, She's (SDS) in...
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...and I installed them today!
I’m going to load the preliminary tune using the Flash and work on the idle.
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Very nice! High five!...and I installed them today!
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I’m going to load the preliminary tune using the Flash and work on the idle.
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Thanks. Oh, and Chris (ryu) deserves a special thanks for helping develop the pipes I'm using... I heard that GCT charges more than a grand for those pipes now. Sad.
Anyhow, with Pocket Logger in hand, I started her up. As expected, with a reset ECU and a new Flash tune loaded, the car hunted (500-1000 rpm) a bit during idle. When it settles down, AFR were between 14.7 and 15.0 @ 710 rpm. The longer the car was on, the better it idled. If I need to adjust the ISCV steps, I will... but I want to see if the ECU can adjust for now.
The first drive was fine. LTFT go from 0 to 3+. After deceleration down to idle, it hunts a bit, but is slowly improving. I stayed pretty much in no-boost conditions. With my BOV set to soft, I did hit it a couple of time between 2500-3500 and boost was 1.8 psi. I felt a slight difference from stock, but I did not stay in boost long enough to really feel the effect. AFRs seem normal at that rpm level. Even though the BOV is recirculating, I get a nice fsssssshooo, when it opens.
Right now, the car drives like stock and I couldn't happier. A bit of work to do on the tune, and I'll have some logging sessions with the ZT-2, EvoScan, ECUEdit and whatever other device I can throw at it. No codes or pending codes at this point. :twothumb:
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What size injectors are you using and what changes on ecu flash did you make to compensate for the larger injectors?
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Running 310s that are currently scaled to '290'. But that was the initial scaling I had for my NA tune. Gonna have to change that... I'm also need to mess a bit more with the latency.
I want to give the ECU a chance to settle down since I just reset it. Cold idle and normal driving are just like stock. AFRs are perfect stoitch during those times. Warm idle is the same as NA with a stumble down to 500 rpm every 30-40 seconds or so... AFRs swing from 12.5-16.0 during that time, and it takes about 10 seconds for that to clear up. Same with deceleration to a stop, the idle will hunt a bit. I have no stalling issues at this point.
I want to give the ECU a chance to settle down since I just reset it. Cold idle and normal driving are just like stock. AFRs are perfect stoitch during those times. Warm idle is the same as NA with a stumble down to 500 rpm every 30-40 seconds or so... AFRs swing from 12.5-16.0 during that time, and it takes about 10 seconds for that to clear up. Same with deceleration to a stop, the idle will hunt a bit. I have no stalling issues at this point.
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Seems to me that the periodic rpm drop to 500rpm is due to the ecu trying to recorrect everything. If you guys can prevent that, then you are made in the shade :bigthumb:.
On a second note, im pretty sure Kris and Matt dont have any rpm drop any time, and cold starts are a snap. (Both have haltechs).
Im insterested to see how things turn out for ya.
On a second note, im pretty sure Kris and Matt dont have any rpm drop any time, and cold starts are a snap. (Both have haltechs).
Im insterested to see how things turn out for ya.
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Thanks. The weather here is rain and I still have the splash guard off. I plan on securing the MAF a bit more with some bailing wire... I want to do some basic non-boosted driving, get the fuel trims right and see how the ECU reacts with more time.
I did a warm idle log and I'll compare the data with one of my N.A. idles tonite.
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Things all sound really good for you man - glad to hear it. Your setup is basically identical to the SDS setup I had planned a while back if I went that route - if all goes well for you it might (once again, sigh) give me something else to think about (currently I'm stuck in the turbo or all out N/A debate with myself). Keep us updated on those things like the oil leak and any other mechanical problems that might crop up, and good luck!
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We see how it goes. I've already decided to have new seals put on by Vortech. When I drove around with out the piping, I still saw and felt a tiny bit of oil on the outlet. I'm keeping a close eye on it, and after I make some head way on the tune, I'll pull it to send for refurbishing.
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Another update:
I've been working so I haven't had time to do much tuning, but I did change the original tune a bit for idle and LTFT.
I'm finding that the fuels trims are unbalanced. Meaning that the fuel trims for the front bank are different than the rear bank. The Pocket Logger doesn't show this difference as well. With a different logging tool, my LTFT were about 0.0 and 3.0 (rear and front respectively). I changed the injector scaling and got -2.0 and 0.8, which is better but still unbalanced. I'm starting to wonder if the stock fuel rail and FPR are just not up to the task. I'll keep an eye on it a see what comes up.
My idle has improved with some of the changes I've made. The idle adjustments are a function of changing the warm engine ISCV steps using the flash and adjusting the idle speed screw. I just bought a new Greddy RS BOV to replace the e-bay Greddy knock-off that I have on the car currently. So, I'm going to have perhaps make changes based of how the newer and better BOV purges the rushing air during idle.
Car runs like stock otherwise. AFRs run a little lean at about 4k when boosted with no knock count. I have to get a little more aggressive with the maps since the ECU can't see passed 100% load. I also have a 255 Wally waiting in the wings if need be.
The one thing I have noticed is that the car has about the same power at 4000 rpm (I saw about 4-5 psi on the ZT-2) as it did at redline N.A. That is just based on feel. But the power is noticeable. I'm keeping away from the higher rpms until the AFRs are in a better place.
The last time I drove the car on Saturday, I took a friend around. When we stopped, he complained about a smell and seemed to be concerned. What he smelled was all the new rubber hoses and couplers that were being exposed to the SDS and engine heat. I'm so used to it by now that I didn't notice. No worries.
I've been working so I haven't had time to do much tuning, but I did change the original tune a bit for idle and LTFT.
I'm finding that the fuels trims are unbalanced. Meaning that the fuel trims for the front bank are different than the rear bank. The Pocket Logger doesn't show this difference as well. With a different logging tool, my LTFT were about 0.0 and 3.0 (rear and front respectively). I changed the injector scaling and got -2.0 and 0.8, which is better but still unbalanced. I'm starting to wonder if the stock fuel rail and FPR are just not up to the task. I'll keep an eye on it a see what comes up.
My idle has improved with some of the changes I've made. The idle adjustments are a function of changing the warm engine ISCV steps using the flash and adjusting the idle speed screw. I just bought a new Greddy RS BOV to replace the e-bay Greddy knock-off that I have on the car currently. So, I'm going to have perhaps make changes based of how the newer and better BOV purges the rushing air during idle.
Car runs like stock otherwise. AFRs run a little lean at about 4k when boosted with no knock count. I have to get a little more aggressive with the maps since the ECU can't see passed 100% load. I also have a 255 Wally waiting in the wings if need be.
The one thing I have noticed is that the car has about the same power at 4000 rpm (I saw about 4-5 psi on the ZT-2) as it did at redline N.A. That is just based on feel. But the power is noticeable. I'm keeping away from the higher rpms until the AFRs are in a better place.
The last time I drove the car on Saturday, I took a friend around. When we stopped, he complained about a smell and seemed to be concerned. What he smelled was all the new rubber hoses and couplers that were being exposed to the SDS and engine heat. I'm so used to it by now that I didn't notice. No worries.
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Glad things are going well for you. Im jealous but glad you are one step ahead of me too! I appreciate the help youve given me and hopefully Extreme can pull together for me sooner than later. Keep up the good work! :bigthumb:
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Not trying to hijack his post but, he was working with them to try and get pipes made for me and anyone else who may want them in the future.
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Yeah, I'm running 310s with the stock pump and FPR. While the car was N.A., I hadn't seen different LTFT beyond 0.1%. The rear LTFT would mirror the front LTFT. I may reset the ECU and see how they settle again. It's a good point about the cam offset, but you should see the same thing N.A. I gut tells me that the FPR could be doing something weird when I into low vac and boost situations.
Exactly. The thing is Greg, even though I know how you feel about Extreme, they are just down the street from me. A convenience that is hard to ignore.01SpyderGT said:
Here's the thing: James contacted me a while ago inquiring about the GCT draw-thru pipes, that were no longer offered because of the mess Jimmy and Donny made. When they were offered, GCT wants to charge James about $1100 for just the pipes! I was also getting the run around from GCT over the couplers. So, I thought there was another route I could go: having Extreme make a new set of pipes that would simplify the coupler design. For logistical reasons, that has not happened at this point.
I got tired of having the SDS blow just into the engine bay, so I bit the bullet and ordered the couplers. As you know, they came to me in four days. The problem is, the right-angled 3.5" to 3" coupler is about $250+ by itself, so the entire four coupler set, would cost about $350+ to fit GCT's piping. I got lucky in the sense that Turbo Hoses had a 3.5" to 3" angled coupler that a customer returned, so I got it for $115 for a total cost for all four at $221.
The idea, as I said before, was to have piping made to use cheaper, standard couplers (a 3.5" to 3" transition would be cheaper). I've told James that I am still committed to the project.
Greg, do you want to get into the pipe making business? Your location is the only reason I didn't charge you with the task. Plus, I've had a fairly positive experience with Extreme and as I mentioned, they are just to damn close to where I live. But I'm getting to the point where I want to get something for James and other members if there is more interest. PM me.
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Yup, it may be hard to see in the picture, but I used a 1" molded radiator hose from the auto parts store. It goes directly into the large coupler that fits onto the inlet of the SDS.
Definitely! The goal was to have the entire project done, then post the tuning results, and other helpful hints to others going down the SDS road. I wanted to avoid the "...well, today I put on my air filter..." type of step-by-step thread. As you can see, I got to a certain point, excitement took over, and I had to post my progress! :bigthumb:
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