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Well, She's (SDS) in...

91K views 1K replies 70 participants last post by  repforenzo 
#1 · (Edited)
This thread is long, so I've created an index (currently the page number don't match to the content because of the change of the forum format. I'll be working on that. I'll also be adding all the pictures that were removed by a certain bullshit photo cloud service. ;) )

INDEX

Page/ Topic
1/ Getting started; First tune in closed loop.
2/ First ZT-2 /EvoScan datalog with lean condition;
Aeromotive 1:1 FPR and –6AN connectors installation.
3/ Deyeme motor mounts install; Walbro 190 install;
Tuning in Open Loop.
4/ Baroscope; 100% Load issue; First Dyno.
5/ Log from Dyno; Bent valves at track; Long block Rebuild.
6/ 440 cc injectors ordered, Long block build.
7/ Track time; Oil leaks at cams, installed Ingall's Stiffy, and VR-4 fuel rail.
8/ Vortech SFMU install; SDS removed/serviced.
9/ Long block rebuild #2; VR-4 head gaskets; Pulse Plugs install; Walbro 255 install.
10/ 10 psi; Wastegate as boost controller discussion; 2nd track time.
11/ Boost Cooler install; Photos of setup; Emissions preparation; Invidia N1 removal.
12/ Heat shield; Passing emissions; boost cooler test/first trials.
13/ SDS weld cracks, removal of butterflies, ignition wire discussion.
14/ SDS weld repaired, B-day Cake, 10.7 psi, Megan OE-RS install, misc. discussion
15/ Stage 2 with wastegate discussion, Draw-thru piping pic, Quaife and FX300 bought, Big Map.
16/ More Big Map discussion, LSD install, Brembos being prepped for install. New rims and tires.
17/ Brembos, Front Lip, Oil Catch Can, Stage 2 axles, and EVO TB seals installed. Datalogged 11.4 psi and finally hit high 13's in 1/4. Extra V-5 and V-2 SDSs. Center Section redone.
18/ BOV failed and replaced, new built block installation, new Damond venting oil catch can. Rebuilt Engine spun rod bearing. Rebuild the Rebuild. Heads with RPW valve springs.



I got my SDS in. It would have been nice if GCT sent me couplers so I could actually hook it up to the TB! Idiots.

The good thing is, even though the blower is just blowing into to engine bay freely (and loudly, I might add), it gives me a chance to be sure that all the belt tolerances, oil feed lines, and the blower, are working properly under a light load.

For example, I noticed, after a light 8-mile drive, a little bit of oil at the outlet of the blower. I wiped it clean, and if the oil reappears, guess who gets to go to Vortech's factory for new oil seals? :rant2: Better now than later...

So, anyhow hope to have a local shop finish the piping this week for me and be on with it. I plan on documenting the install in a separate thread when I was completely done, but I thought some of you would like to see how I altered my CAI. :twothumb: Enjoy!

My mods list that I will update from time to time is here: Repforenzo's 2003 GTS with SDS

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#680 ·
I don't want to go through the whole discussion Open Loop vs Closed Loop tuning. In a nut shell the fuel scaling limitations of the using the Flash to tune a FI system on the 100% load limit requires Open Loop tuning. If you are in closed loop, the injector scaling and latencies are set in stone to get 0 LTFTs. By not having that standard, it allows for extended tuning capabilities. Not to mention the faster computations open loop tuning does.

By being in Open Loop all the time, I had to rebuild my idle performance. That in itself is involved. It requires setting a target idle speed, ISCV motor steps maps, and adjust the idle screw all the same time.

So if you are tuning with the Flash, this Open Loop tuning is necessary above 6-8 psi. I'm also putting 72-75 psi at the fuel rail, too. If you use the E-manage, you can keep the car mostly in Closed loop. I don't want to get into suggesting that this is the way to go. It works for my set up.

Todd (Spuds) may or may not require this. He has a fuel controller that takes care of the scaling limitation. I have to take a look at his overall tune to really see what is going on.

That reminds me: Todd have you checked your LTFTs lately?
 
#682 · (Edited)
It still needs to be determined if will help or not. With a fuel controlling device it is not as critical as in my setup. It is always an option if you need it. :)
 
#684 ·
Hey, good luck with that "damn med school" stuff. One day when you're driving around in your Ferrari or Benz, don't forget us 3g guys. :lol:

Once I'm done with the emissions, the SDS tune and belt are going right back in. I hope to optimize the tune with the boost cooler as the weather gets warmer. And then later we'll see about a redesigned center section, another catback, the LSD, upgraded axles, and upgraded brake kit. Still some things to spread out through out the year. All will depend on my work load and that is tied into whether or not the economy takes a nose dive or not. :rant2:
 
#690 ·
Hey Rep, I got a little question for ya. What is the base for the LTFT's? Is it like a 0 to 5V signal or something? And I'm assuming that the lower the number (at least for the Low Trim) is what you want? Its been awhile cause my car has been up on jack stands in the garage for about 3 months now. So its gettin to be that time and I need look into a slight lean condition I was having just before I parked it for the winter. I think I need to get to get a Zeitronix also. Sorry if I'm hackin your thread tho
 
#691 ·
#692 · (Edited)
PASSED

See, I told you Greg! You got all worried by saying, "Man, you need to make a fake heat shield in case they pop your hood. Lucky for you I can make you one!" Greg, you can't go through life worrying about every little thing. :rolleyes:



















:lmfao::lmfao::lmfao::lmfao: Did I get ya? :fawk::lol:
Anyhow now that the emissions crap is behind me, the belt will go on tonite and the SC ROM will go back in. It will be nice to have ~100 more whp again.:wavey:
 
#695 ·
PASSED

See, I told you Greg! You got all worried by saying, "Man, you need to make a fake heat shield in case they pop your hood. Lucky for you I can make you one!" Greg, you can't go through life worrying about every little thing. :rolleyes:

:lmfao::lmfao::lmfao::lmfao: Did I get ya? :fawk::lol:
Anyhow now that the emissions crap is behind me, the belt will go on tonite and the SC ROM will go back in. It will be nice to have ~100 more whp again.:wavey:
I'm the one who is anal retentive? :scratch::scratch::lmfao::lmfao::lmfao:
 
#696 ·
Boost! Glorious boost! Wait what do I hear? A whine of a SC and... what's that?... oh yeah, my BOV. PPfffffssshhh! :lol: Welcome back old friend. :)

Everything is back to 'normal' and she pulls like banshee. It is amazing the difference.

One thing of note that I forgot to mention... with the SDS on, I have the vacuum line of the EGR valve disconnected. In its place, I put a nipple on the brass vac line to the EGR Valve so it is blocked off. This keeps the EGR valve closed all the time. When I loaded the stock ROM, I reconnected the EGR valve vacuum line so it would function as normal. I have throw a EGR code with the nipple in place when I run closed loop. I'm back to Open Loop all the time.
 
#698 ·
:scratch::scratch::scratch:

All he did was remove a belt!
 
#701 ·
No, didn't have to. Look at the picture of the heat shield, you'll see the SDS is still on. It wouldn't have been too bad if I had to take it all off, though.

Another thing I should mention is that in closed loop, the idle with the SDS was a little erratic, if I remember correctly. Not to say it is perfectly smooth in Open Loop, but it is not bad. When I had the SDS blowing into the engine bay (way back on page 1), I was surprised how strong the blower was at 800 rpm. That air rush, even with a BOV, does play a bit of havoc for the stock idle settings.
 
#703 ·
Yup. I didn't want to touch the blow-thru setup with a ten foot pole. :lol: At least not with the stock MAF.

By the way, how is your car running?
 
#707 ·
You should definitely be on this site more than the .org.

.org = idiots.
 
#709 ·
Here's a little non-update. My local track is opening on Sunday and it is supposed to be 70 degrees. I don't plan on racing, but who knows how I feel. God knows I need the practice.:lol: My main goal is to start dialing in the boost cooler. I need to make sure the tank doesn't leak and the outlet of the sprayer isn't clogged. Ever since I installed it, the reservoir has been empty. So I'll throw 12 volts at the pump and see if the nozzle sprays nicely. I'll be doing that today, and a bit tomorrow.
 
#714 ·
:lol:

I did a little experimentation with different setting on the boost cooler controller. There is a definite sweet spot with those settings. Too much water/methanol and the power drops off significantly. I didn't experience any misfire, but I was extinguishing out some of the fuel. I may do a datalog this evening with and without the pump on.
 
#717 · (Edited)
Ok, I did some datalogging. One run I had the boost cooler disabled and then two runs with the boost cooler on. The non-cooler run I hit 10.4 psi at 6508 rpms. No drama there. Nominal knock sum with '4' showing once with mostly '2's and some '3's through out the rpm range. That was good, because I wanted to see how the boost cooler combats some of the knock sum.

The next run, I reconnected power to the controller and took off. At around 6000 the engine started sputtering so I let off. The knock sum did fall off to nearly '0' in all fields, but it was too much spray. Before the third run, I increased the termination point to 20 psi... I guess. It was hard to tell on such a small adjustment screw. I did my final run and hit 10.4 psi at 6400 rpms without a stumble. Some knock sum appeared, but it was better than the non-boost run, but not as good as the 2nd run where I sprayed more.

This thing is going to take some effort to dial in properly. I'm not sure if I like the small dials the Stage 2 controller has. I might check into the Stage 3 controller unit which would give me more control. We'll see.
 
#718 ·
What kind of mixture are you using? I thought I read that you using 50/50, water/meth? Just wondering cause the guy at my tuning shop said he did some testing with all the different mixtures that some companies have said work-like straight water, windsheild washer fliud, meth and 50/50 mixtures of them all. He said they had the best results with straight meth. This was on a turbo'd mazda miata tho.
 
#719 ·
I'm currently using Snow's Boost Juice which is 50/50. Once I go through those 3 gallons, I will get my own methanol and try 40/60 (water/meth). I want to have some water in there because of the cooling properties of H2O. Methanol is strictly an octane booster and does not have the ability to absorb heat nearly as well as water. I don't think I'd go to a pure methanol mix.

Still some things to do... I'm going to regap the plugs to .030 instead of the .035 gap I have now and the cap & rotor are due for a change. I just took the car out again and she riding good.

I should say that I met up with Todd (Spuds) and Greg at the track on Sunday. It was slammed. It took Greg a long time to get through tech. Todd got there early enough to get a few runs in. Greg had to wait 45 plus minutes between each pass.:facepalm: It is hard to get any rhythm when you got that much time between passes. I was there to drink and I did. I was a little twisted when we left. Life is good. :cheers::40oz:
 
#720 ·
Must boost car... Best I could manage was a 14.5. Oh well, next time I'll do at least a low 13. :)
 
#722 ·
Let's put it this way.

I'll make a 13s pass before you do Phil!

:lol:
 
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