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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have the week off of work and I am eager to get some work done on my 2003 GTS Spyder with 54,000 miles. I am looking for suggestions on things that I can do or buy to make my car run better. When I say "run better" I dont mean what can I do for more power.

I am looking for things that will make my car run smoother, handle better, and help with the longevity of my car. I have just gotten a few things done over the last few days such as.....
-Oil Changed
-New Air Filter for my CAI
-New Ceramic brake pads for front and back
-Completly cleaned engine bay
-New tires

Done since this post
-*Flushed and filled powersteering
-*Flushed and filled coolant system

All suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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V8 > 3G
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well i recently had a missfire problem due to a sticky injector and found that a fuel injector cleaner actually works. I used the brand Gumout which was like $3 a bottle and now the motor feels/sounds new again. It's worth it IMO but then again, I have three times as many miles as you.
 

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Ah yes...
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Well some things would be. To replace the coolant in the system. Replace the transmission oil (auto/manny) if you didn't do it recently. Replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid if you have one. Replace the power steering fluid. Clean you intake and throttle body from all the carbon build up. Check your spark plugs for proper wear and replace them if need be. Check for any exhaust leaks and you can retighten the chassis bolts and suspension if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am not the best or most knowlegable person as far as cars go so anything to difficult is out of the question but most of that seems pretty strait forward.

I am driving a stick.

when you are saying to replace the fluids do you mean that i should completly flush them or what?
 

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Ah yes...
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I am not the best or most knowlegable person as far as cars go so anything to difficult is out of the question but most of that seems pretty strait forward.

I am driving a stick.

when you are saying to replace the fluids do you mean that i should completly flush them or what?
There is a how to on this board how to replace and flush all the fluids in our cars. You just have to look in the Garage section. If you don't know how to do something don't do it yourself or have someone help you that knows how to do it. But all the stuff is pretty straight forward as long as you can follow directions. Replace and flush means the samething really when it comes to cars, you usually do both when you want to change fluids.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Clipse3GT and SkinnyGT for the responses. Most everything that you posted was more for longevity, any suggestions for a smoother ride or better handling?
 

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Thanks Clipse3GT and SkinnyGT for the responses. Most everything that you posted was more for longevity, any suggestions for a smoother ride or better handling?
As far as handling putting on a suspension setup would help with that. Something like and Eibach prokit and a KYB AGX shocks/struts. You can also get something like a ST Sway bar for the hear helps with the back of the car not slip and slide in turns as much. As well as get a rear strut bar to make things stiffer.
 

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Lower & Slower
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You could always upgrade your shocks, i'm not sure which ones but when I was looking at getting my car lowered, She was showing me different shocks/struts and as the price went up they were supposed to provide a smoother ride.

You can always upgrade your tire, to help out with these also, I hear Michelins are always good.

and what do you use to clean the MAF is there a thread on this?
 

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Also spark plug wires, and a new distributor cap and rotor wouldn't hurt if they're do to be changed...personally, the little cheap stuff like that and spark plugs I just change rather than checking to see if they're still good...especially with the work you have to do to get to the rear plugs, you might as well just change them while you're back there...
 

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Ah yes...
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You could always upgrade your shocks, i'm not sure which ones but when I was looking at getting my car lowered, She was showing me different shocks/struts and as the price went up they were supposed to provide a smoother ride.

You can always upgrade your tire, to help out with these also, I hear Michelins are always good.

and what do you use to clean the MAF is there a thread on this?
Don't clean the maf with anything. it does not have to be cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
changing the rear plugs is gonna be a bitch and i am absolutly dreading the day...lol

i have been leaning toward the kyb agx for awhile, only problem is that i dont know if that is something that i can do on my own. Although i think that my buddy could help me out with this one, he works at a car shop and has done alot of work on his own car. Would i have to get new springs as well?

oops must have missed that in your post....

so it would be $615 for the prokit with the kyb agx shocks and struts, is there anything else that i would need with this???

what would an estimated cost be to have them installed? (if i decide to go that way)
 

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another good idea is since your car dosnt have that many miles on it is to run full sythetic gear oil and motor oil. it HAS been proven with a SLIGHT increase in horsepower, but more importantly, it increases the life of rotating parts.
 

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If you go with the KYB AGX and lower springs, you may need kits to correct your camber...as odd as it sounds, some people do and some people don't. I did the homemade rear camber kit while I installed my AGX's and TEIN S-Tech springs, and bought a front kit from WeSellCarParts...both were in fact needed on my car when I got it aligned...
 

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Well some things would be. To replace the coolant in the system. Replace the transmission oil (auto/manny) if you didn't do it recently. Replace the brake fluid and clutch fluid if you have one. Replace the power steering fluid. Clean you intake and throttle body from all the carbon build up. Check your spark plugs for proper wear and replace them if need be. Check for any exhaust leaks and you can retighten the chassis bolts and suspension if need be.
Not trying to be a dick or anything, but why would you have carbon on the TB and intake? There should only be that stuff on the exhaust side of things, not the intake. Given there might be some grimey/oily stuff from the crank vent, but not carbon.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
from what i have heard, with the prokit the drop is not substantial enough to require a camber kit. on the eiback site it is listed as optional. I am gonna have to wait a few monthes on these though....not good when bills out weigh your income

My car is pulling pretty hard to the right and the steering wheel is shaking alot so tomorrow i am gonna get an alignment and hope this fixes it.
 

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Ah yes...
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Not trying to be a dick or anything, but why would you have carbon on the TB and intake? There should only be that stuff on the exhaust side of things, not the intake. Given there might be some grimey/oily stuff from the crank vent, but not carbon.
Over time, carbon deposits will build up inside the throttle body. This carbon comes from exhaust gasses, called blowby, that leak past the piston rings and get removed from the engine through the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, or from exhaust gasses recirculated by the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve. Both the PCV and EGR systems send exhaust gasses into the throttle body. The amount of buildup will increase with engine wear as more blowby gasses make it past the worn piston rings. A new car may not need a throttle body cleaning until 30,000 miles. At 80,000 miles the throttle body may need cleaning every 10,000 miles, if not more frequently.

As carbon builds up in the throat of the throttle body, and on the throttle plate itself, the carbon deposits will block the small space and bypass ports around the throttle plate and incoming air will no longer have its intended volume when the throttle plate is at its closed position as it is when the engine is idling. The engine computer will attempt to compensate for this by opening the throttle plate a bit more. An owner or mechanic may also have attempted to readjust the idle speed through a manual adjustment. But neither of these reactions works effectively because the throttle plate is no longer properly positioned relative to the idle air bypass passages in the throttle body. In fact, any manual adjustment to idle speed or related sensors should only be done with a clean throttle body. Carbon buildup is usually only a problem at idle because at higher speeds the throttle plate is opened much wider and the carbon buildup has little, if any, effect unless the deposits get bad enough to clog a vacuum port in the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
WOW....Talk about:urowned:

I got lost in the first sentence of that. Next time use a pm to show someone up cuz now i just feel like an idiot.....lol....jk
 

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i changed my plugs today for the first time. i knew it was going to be a bitch to get the intake manifold off and it ended up taking me 4 hours from start to finish. it was my first crack at the intake manifold with minimal experience working on cars but with the online tutorial it really wasn't that bad. im glad i did it myself instead of paying someone else to do it.
 

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rywynn 13...I see you have a 2003 GTS... so ur car doesnt have an interior air filter like my 2000 GS, after reading a post about water getting into the car due to a clogged A/C drain plug; you could disassemble the blower assembly and make sure u have a free flowing drain for ur A/C before its too late! Here is a good how-to...

http://www.club3g.com/forum/problem-reports/95892-c-leaking-water-my-floor-board.html

Some other things to do...
Check the tire pressure
Check battery voltage and remove any possible corrosion
Windshield washer fluid fill
Lube up moving parts (hatch, shifter, etc.)
Wash and more importantly wax if possible (for improved MPG!)
Dont know the condition of your headlights but for better visibility try this...

http://www.club3g.com/forum/show-sh...ts-v-before-after-pics-56k-grab-snickers.html

Hope these ideas help!
 
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