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What is needed for Headers Install!!!

3899 Views 51 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Bigtmaxx
Since i bought my CMF Headers used, i am trying to install them tommorrow but first i need to make sure i have everything. So please all i ask is for your help. Take a look at my posted pictures and let me know if i am missing something. I need to know now, so tommorrow morning i can run to autozone and pick up something i missed early saturday. Thanks alot!

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Why do you have intake manifold gaskets?
idky, but those look like painted Meagan headers!!
Why do you have intake manifold gaskets?
Only needs one. I assume he will have the plenum removed in order to access the rear mounting nuts :dunno: I see he has spark plug tube seals as well... should not be needed unless your sparks are getting oil on them or unless you already have the valve cover off.

You need a set of gloves. <$10 any auto store. TRUST ME :yesway:
(breaker bar/impact and a decent torque wrench required)
Those are probably the 1st gen CMF headers.
yup they are CMF Gen1's, wish me luck as i am about to embark on this quest!
Why the hell isnt there a how to for the CMF"s thats terrible
Eventhough there is a cat on there, there is no bungs after the cat for your secondary o2 sensors. They are the ones with the grey clips. You will either have to locate your secondary 02 bungs behind the cat or buy spark plug non foulers and follow the how to in order to not throw the code.
Oh and you dont have an egr hookup so you have to follow the how to about making an ERG breather that way that code doesnt show up. Good luck. You should get some pb blaster or somting like that to lube up the nuts and bolts that will not budge.

It took me 14 hours when I put my RPW's on.
I appreciate it man, this is hard by yourself lol damn
I appreciate it man, this is hard by yourself lol damn
I did it by myself. It was ok. I took out the front radiator and all the hoses, the battery, and the intake.

Also for the rear mainfold, I took off the precat to get to the manifold nuts. Others can do it without taking off the precat, but I found it easier taking it off. I used a boxed in wrench for basically everything.

The front and downpipe should be cake. The rear is what took me a while

Oh I also have the non foulers for sale that way you dont have to weld on aditional bungs after your cat. I will drill them out for you if you want also. 10 shipped they are yours.
alright man i will let you know, i really appreciate the tips bro
When i installed RPW's on a coupe, we just had to take off the fan on the passenger side of the radiator and just let it rest on the floor. Undid the downpipe then took off the front and rear with the precats installed. All in all took about 4 hours I think. Be sure to have a good kinda long 14mm wrench (non ratcheting so you can tap it with a hammer) and in the rear your going to need a 14mm socket with a knuckle (u-joint) for the bolt on the far passenger side. Besides that it was simple.

I recommend applying penetrating lube in 3 steps, it may sound like a pain but it makes it really easy to get everything apart. Apply one layer to the front and rear manifolds, wait 20-30 minutes then spray it again and then weight 30 minutes and spray it again, then spray it again wait 20-30 minutes then you can start working. I usually do this the night before while watching tv. just go out inbetween shows or whatever and give them a quick spray.
alright ya the only thing is the the far bottom left bolt for the front headers is a pain i cant seem to get to it properly
umm... i think i tackled that from the bottom. I know i didn't move the alternator at all, didn't want to have to deal with that primitive excuse for a belt tensioner.
umm... i think i tackled that from the bottom. I know i didn't move the alternator at all, didn't want to have to deal with that primitive excuse for a belt tensioner.
I think I used a 14mm cresent with ratchet on one end. I have also loosened the 2 alt bracket bolts (12mm) and let the alt slide out toward the bumper a little for extra room. Also helped me when I pulled the oil dipstick tube up a little, then it could be rotated allowing more room for the ratchet. Did this an hour ago and months/years ago. So far I havent noticed any problems with my belts or tensioner. :dunno: I probably just got lucky. Will be checking it before hitting the road again though.
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