Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Club banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

Guys i need some help. I got a Optima Red top. After 3 days of no driving the car is dead!? thinking and checking of the obvious that I'm leaving something on i checked all lights head unit ect. Nothing is on from the naked eye including the trunk light i dealt with it for 2 months till 1 day i said maybe i got a defective battery? It was still under warranty so i replaced it with a brand new 1. 3 days of no driving yep you guessed it. DEAD:scream: what is killing my battery? and how can i pinpoint it?
 

·
BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
Joined
·
7,180 Posts
Have you checked the battery with a voltmeter? Did you have a shop load test the battery? My guesses:

1) bad alternator or fusible link
2) bad battery connections (dirty or loose)
3) short somewhere... check ALL fuses for continuity
4) bad serp belt (loose, broken, missing)
 

·
GTSEclipse
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
Idk if you have a system but check to make sure your amp goes off and it doesnt stay on. Happened to a friend of mine. Just an idea, Goodluck.
 

·
Douchecanoe
Joined
·
1,729 Posts
You should be able to get your Alternator tested at an Autozone. Call em and ask.

I'd say make a list from the suggestions in this thread.

From the top start with the simple things like making sure your amp turns off. Then start checking off items as you verify they're ok. Eventually, you'll find the culprit!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No system So that's 1 check.

I have a BAD PIG TAIL signal light but I don't think that's the problem? It does seem like it's short as it's Dim and the other side is bright? none of the wires are touching?

I'll update you guys

Thanks:sad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Got the alternator Tested at the zone, It's throwing 14 volts:angryazn: I was hoping it was the alternator rather then going on a electrical hunt:( but the alternator is GOOD so that's bad news. :( I got too get the test light out and start stabbing away :mecry:

I did have a outlet converter in my cig hole but it only turned on when the car was on..... or so i think...........?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,084 Posts
Had a similar prob. in the race car!

It wouldn't start even with a jump! Had to push start at the track 7 out of 8 runs, (fun).
Anywho, with my battery being in the rear I thought maybe one of the lines got cut, (not).
Long story short I disconnected my connection with the OEM positive side & really scrutinized it & low & behold there was massive corrosion underneath the connection. (So I had my toes crossed while cleaning it up & coated it with battery protectant), yep you guessed it, that was the prob.....
Been running ever since.......
Hope this helps & that solves your problem......................
 

·
Stock N Slow...
Joined
·
163 Posts
Got the alternator Tested at the zone, It's throwing 14 volts:angryazn: I was hoping it was the alternator rather then going on a electrical hunt:( but the alternator is GOOD so that's bad news. :( I got too get the test light out and start stabbing away :mecry:

I did have a outlet converter in my cig hole but it only turned on when the car was on..... or so i think...........?

The first thing I'd check though, would be the terminals. Make sure they have a good tight, clean connection with the battery.

Also, get the battery tested. If you weren't having this kind of problem before, it might just be the battery. I bought a red top myself several months back and I used to leave it sitting for weeks at a time. Would always crank and start when I hit the key.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
54,464 Posts
get a cheap amp meter (any cheap multmeter will work) and unhook the battery + terminal from the battery. put the meter on the highest amp setting and hook it with the - to the battery post and the + to the battery terminal. watch the current draw, it should be well under 1 amp, more like .25 amp or even less. if the draw is high, start pulling fuses till the draw drops. when you get the draw to drop, figure out whats running off that fuse thats causing the draw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
get a cheap amp meter (any cheap multmeter will work) and unhook the battery + terminal from the battery. put the meter on the highest amp setting and hook it with the - to the battery post and the + to the battery terminal. watch the current draw, it should be well under 1 amp, more like .25 amp or even less. if the draw is high, start pulling fuses till the draw drops. when you get the draw to drop, figure out whats running off that fuse thats causing the draw.
Great info. this will save me hours didn't think of doing it this way thanks:bigthumb:

I just got a brand new Optima red top only 1 week old. All the basics were checked battery terminals ok and clean and tight before i go ahead and get an amp meter I'm leaving the OEM Alarm OFF for 3 days too see if that is the culprit.

I'll update in a week too let you guys know what happened if i find the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Had a similar prob. in the race car!

It wouldn't start even with a jump! Had to push start at the track 7 out of 8 runs, (fun).
Anywho, with my battery being in the rear I thought maybe one of the lines got cut, (not).
Long story short I disconnected my connection with the OEM positive side & really scrutinized it & low & behold there was massive corrosion underneath the connection. (So I had my toes crossed while cleaning it up & coated it with battery protectant), yep you guessed it, that was the prob.....
Been running ever since.......
Hope this helps & that solves your problem......................
Thanks!:twothumb:
 

·
(b)org banugee
Joined
·
4,549 Posts
You might want to make sure the fuse on the charging circuit is good also. It is NOT with the rest of the fuses.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,084 Posts
Good point, there is a chance that the 120 amp fuse at the positive connection could have blown.
I also checked that & fortunatly that was not my prob.!
 

·
BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
Joined
·
7,180 Posts
You might want to make sure the fuse on the charging circuit is good also.
Good point, there is a chance that the 120 amp fuse at the positive connection could have blown!
Hopefully he has already checked that. It was the 1st suggestion and takes a mere 20 seconds to check. Whats that status Shawn? Have you checked anything other than the alternator so far?

If the fusible link is blown your alt power will still read 14V BUT none of that power will go anywhere or charge the battery. I'd be tempted to say that the alt is under stress while running with no battery/fuse hooked up. I'm pretty sure, for the health of the alt, that power it is producing should be going to a load and not to a wire with a blown fuse on the end of it. Not a huge deal though... just something to keep in mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well right now I'm conducting a test. I think i have a short in my signal lamp pigtail as the bulb works but is dimmer then the other side and when i put the signal light on it flickers fast telling me it's blow but it's not.

I was thinking because of the short when i started my alarm it probably keeps juice following but the short messes it up. So I'm leaving my car sit for 3 days without the alarm and see if that pinpoints it. I've been really busy this week so haven't been able too get out there and tackle it 100% i'll defiantly post the issue when it's found, But thanks for the help troubleshooting guys.

P.s I haven't checked EVERY FUSE but i'll be going to do that as well.We have had like 2 major snow storms so it's been tough too get out there when my car's Buried up too the side mirrors in snow:wiggle:
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top