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I just bought some megan racing coil overs for my 2004 gt and have been trying to figure out the best wheel fitment for a flush fit, any tips?
Just as an example i have evo 8 wheels on my gts and they have a very slight poke. 17x8 wheel with 35 offset i believe. If you get slightly less offset i think they would be flush. Im stock height tho so my poke is slightly worse but once i get my bc coils i plan to take pics and post them on the forum.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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The wider the wheel, the more rear back spacing you will need. I am running 8.5" wide wheels. They have been on the car a long time. I cannot remember what my backspacing [offset] is. I think it is 40. ...J.D.

UPDATE: I did verify the offset on mine.. I had the boxes they came in out in my shed with other wheels in them. The box says the offset is 40. Here are some photos. They are 17"X8.5
 

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The wider the wheel, the more rear back spacing you will need. I am running 8.5" wide wheels. They have been on the car a long time. I cannot remember what my backspacing [offset] is. I think it is 40. ...J.D.

UPDATE: I did verify the offset on mine.. I had the boxes they came in out in my shed with other wheels in them. The box says the offset is 40. Here are some photos. They are 17"X8.5
I was thinking about going wider so i could get more tire on the ground. Those fit without any trimming of the fender? My 17x8s rub slightly at full lock. No issues with the 17x8.5s?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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No rubbing. No trimming. I think the key is proper tire size and offset. I am using a 225/45X17 on an 8.5" rim, with 40mm backspacing. [research on the internet says stock wheel offset is 46mm for the 17" wheels]. Sometimes you can get too big a tire and the tread does not lay flat on the road. Mine is stock ride height. Just high quality shocks, good sway bar and I have more grip in the corners than I can use at street speeds. I am using a soft compound Dunlop tire.. ...J.D.
 

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No rubbing. No trimming. I think the key is proper tire size and offset. I am using a 225/45X17 on an 8.5" rim, with 40mm backspacing. Sometimes you can get too big a tire and the tread does not lay flat on the road. Mine is stock ride height. Just high quality shocks, good sway bar and I have more grip in the corners than I can use at street speeds. I am using a soft compound Dunlop tire.. ...J.D.
My suspension is also stock but i run the wheels off of an evo 8 so i run the stock evo tire size. That may be my problem but i want as much tire on the ground as possible since this is my "road and track" car
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Lots of clearance. I have not been able to push this car "too far", at least on the street the way it is set up. And again, only 225/45's. ...J.D.
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2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 5spd
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My suspension is also stock but i run the wheels off of an evo 8 so i run the stock evo tire size. That may be my problem but i want as much tire on the ground as possible since this is my "road and track" car
Tire contact dosent play much of a roll with the type of wheels or tires you have. But how your suspension is set up. Fine line between road and track set up, track set ups you want a lot of camber road/street driving you don’t want that much. I run 17x 8.5 -35 offset with 10mm spacers in front and 15mm in the rear with pretty aggressive camber not something you will drive on a daily because if tire wear. We can go on and on about what you should run but everyone will have a different opinion.

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Tire contact dosent play much of a roll with the type of wheels or tires you have. But how your suspension is set up. Fine line between road and track set up, track set ups you want a lot of camber road/street driving you don’t want that much. I run 17x 8.5 -35 offset with 10mm spacers in front and 15mm in the rear with pretty aggressive camber not something you will drive on a daily because if tire wear. We can go on and on about what you should run but everyone will have a different opinion.

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Btw big fan of your build for months. I watched a few of your on track videos. I havent done suspension mods yet because i am still looking for a daily. I bought the car and used it as a daily for a while but i got a job an hour away from my house so i need a new one. Once i get my new daily this car will become my project and i am going to make a post about it when i start. I have alot of plans and at first im starting with suspension. What do you reconmend? Im planning bc coils, st suspension sway bar, and poly bushings. Do you have any other reconmendations? Sorry to hijack the post.
 

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2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 5spd
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Btw big fan of your build for months. I watched a few of your on track videos. I havent done suspension mods yet because i am still looking for a daily. I bought the car and used it as a daily for a while but i got a job an hour away from my house so i need a new one. Once i get my new daily this car will become my project and i am going to make a post about it when i start. I have alot of plans and at first im starting with suspension. What do you reconmend? Im planning bc coils, st suspension sway bar, and poly bushings. Do you have any other reconmendations? Sorry to hijack the post.
I have BC racing coilovers as they come stock spring rates are pretty decent for daily driving and some track use. If I had to choose between brands I would look into Ksports or BC, BC gives you the option to get the shocks revalved for different spring rates depending on how you wanna go and im pretty sure ksport is the same. Ive had both brands and ive had nothing but good things to say about them both.

For poly bushings I would suggestion getting prothane front bushing kit for the 3G and a 2G rear prothane kit as they come with the knuckle bushing The 3g kit doesn't supply those. Prothane vs ES bushings will be quite the price difference but the ease of installation on the prothanes is what you pay for as they are half bushings that can be easily be pressed in. If you splurge look into arms from VMC "volk metal craft" for the 2G they have amazing toe, control, and trailing arms but are quite expensive . also the 2G and 3G share the same rear suspension and can be all compatible with little to no modification.
 

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I have Goodyear Eagle Exhilarate's 225/45ZR17 on KONIG BACKBONE 17x7.5 ET35 without any spacers. After I lowered it 2inches in the front & 2.5 inches in the rear, I did notice some rubbing under full lock in the front but not enough to be concerned with.
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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Mine is just set up for the street. Lots of different ways to do things. I did the chassis work on mine back in 2016 and then it sat for a few years. Just got it going again this year. It had some trouble with emission controls I had to sort out. Been good fun this summer. ...J.D.
 

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I have BC racing coilovers as they come stock spring rates are pretty decent for daily driving and some track use. If I had to choose between brands I would look into Ksports or BC, BC gives you the option to get the shocks revalved for different spring rates depending on how you wanna go and im pretty sure ksport is the same. Ive had both brands and ive had nothing but good things to say about them both.

For poly bushings I would suggestion getting prothane front bushing kit for the 3G and a 2G rear prothane kit as they come with the knuckle bushing The 3g kit doesn't supply those. Prothane vs ES bushings will be quite the price difference but the ease of installation on the prothanes is what you pay for as they are half bushings that can be easily be pressed in. If you splurge look into arms from VMC "volk metal craft" for the 2G they have amazing toe, control, and trailing arms but are quite expensive . also the 2G and 3G share the same rear suspension and can be all compatible with little to no modification.
What brand and size tires do you run? I have 235 falken ze660s because i wanted a sporty all season but once this car isnt my daily i want something a little more aggressive and maybe a touch bigger.
 

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2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 5spd
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What brand and size tires do you run? I have 235 falken ze660s because i wanted a sporty all season but once this car isnt my daily i want something a little more aggressive and maybe a touch bigger.
Do you mean RT660s??? That tire isn’t a all season tire what so ever RT660s are a extreme performance summer tire or pretty much a track tire. Those are the tires I run, in the same size 235/45r17 once these tires wear down I’ll prob get 245/40r17. I’ve heard of people using 255/40r17 which boggles my mind. Also I’ve noticed RT660s happen to be slightly wider than advertised comparing to the next brand.
 

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Do you mean RT660s??? That tire isn’t a all season tire what so ever RT660s are a extreme performance summer tire or pretty much a track tire. Those are the tires I run, in the same size 235/45r17 once these tires wear down I’ll prob get 245/40r17. I’ve heard of people using 255/40r17 which boggles my mind. Also I’ve noticed RT660s happen to be slightly wider than advertised comparing to the next brand.
sorry it was a typo i meant the falken ze960. They grip alot better than the no name tires the previous owner had on the car but i feel i would push them past thier limits on a track. Do you recommend the rt660?
 

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sorry it was a typo i meant the falken ze960. They grip alot better than the no name tires the previous owner had on the car but i feel i would push them past thier limits on a track. Do you recommend the rt660?
The way I would go if you’re just getting into track racing is use your tires that you have and learn to drive an how to push the car harder and harder before stepping into a really grippy tire. You will feel a lot better destroying cheap tires vs destroying expensive track tires off the bat. It would suck to do only 2-4 events and find out you’ve delaminated the tire or it’s Chuncking really bad. Tires get expensive and they are expendables just like brakes the more you can get out if you’re tires the less you’ll have to keep buying them.

But to answer your question about RT660s they are an amazing track tire I would recommend them to anyone that wants to track there car along with the RT615k+. There are a lot of really good track tires out there I use the 660s because the people I go to the track with plan on going to the events called GridLife and that’s the sponsored tire.
 

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Do you mean RT660s??? That tire isn’t a all season tire what so ever RT660s are a extreme performance summer tire or pretty much a track tire. Those are the tires I run, in the same size 235/45r17 once these tires wear down I’ll prob get 245/40r17. I’ve heard of people using 255/40r17 which boggles my mind. Also I’ve noticed RT660s happen to be slightly wider than advertised comparing to the next brand.
The way I would go if you’re just getting into track racing is use your tires that you have and learn to drive an how to push the car harder and harder before stepping into a really grippy tire. You will feel a lot better destroying cheap tires vs destroying expensive track tires off the bat. It would suck to do only 2-4 events and find out you’ve delaminated the tire or it’s Chuncking really bad. Tires get expensive and they are expendables just like brakes the more you can get out if you’re tires the less you’ll have to keep buying them.

But to answer your question about RT660s they are an amazing track tire I would recommend them to anyone that wants to track there car along with the RT615k+. There are a lot of really good track tires out there I use the 660s because the people I go to the track with plan on going to the events called GridLife and that’s the sponsored tire.
Sounds good man ill keep that in mind. Thanks for the advice.
 
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