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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
01 Eclipse Spyder GS needs hub bearing replaced.

Axle nut & cv shaft look very rusty & corroded. Not sure if can get cv axle out of hub or axle threads messed up. Axle seems good from sight but have not broke axle nut loose to find out .

Any experience with this job with Ohio rust and corrosion. Other than p blaster and breaker bar ? Thinking about paying 150 to have shop do

Probably stock bearings & axles from 01.
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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01 Eclipse Spyder GS needs hub bearing replaced.

Axle nut & cv shaft look very rusty & corroded. Not sure if can get cv axle out of hub or axle threads messed up. Axle seems good from sight but have not broke axle nut loose to find out .

Any experience with this job with Ohio rust and corrosion. Other than p blaster and breaker bar ? Thinking about paying 150 to have shop do

Probably stock bearings & axles from 01.
In the long run, it will probably be easier to replace both the hubs and the axles, especially if they are stock and 20+ years old. I ended up replacing the knuckles too, which were rusty, but not necessary as long as you can get the four bolts out connecting the knuckle to the wheel hub. Replace your hubs with ones made by Moog (stay away from ebay unbranded stuff). You WILL need an impact wrench, hammer and breaker bar, and lots of PB Blaster. Loosen the axle nut but leave it on to protect the spline as you bang on it to loosen the axle from hub. Worst case scenario is to remove everything in one piece (axle, hub, knuckle), then bring to a shop to have the hubs pressed out to reuse the axle and knuckle...or replace everything and save the trip to the shop, which is what I did because I was on a mission to replace the entire front suspension at 93k miles. If you decide to replace/remove the axles, remember that the passenger side is two piece, with the junction bolted to the engine with three bolts, which you will need to unbolt to get everything out in one piece. The "intermediate shaft" between the trans and cv axle should be okay to reuse unless the splines get messed up, so be careful when pulling it because it is discontinued. The axles have a c-clip around the spline that goes into the transaxle, so check that it is in place and not bent when reinstalling. Needless to say, all of this is much easier to do on a lift rather than jackstands. Its also preferable to do both sides at the same time, and replace your struts, if necessary, not to mention an alignment. BTW, there are some YouTube how-to videos you should check out.
 

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Take the castle nut off the axle, turn it around backwards and screw back on just so you can knock the axle back with a hammer and a piece of wood block. I would get a slide hammer tool. I bought one from Harbor Freight for this. I just replaced all wheel bearing on my car a few months ago when I did the complete suspension replacement. It was not too bad of a task with the right tools. If rusty, let everything soak with some PB Blaster. The front bearings can be a bitch to get out. Make sure to use anti-seize when installing new bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Take the castle nut off the axle, turn it around backwards and screw back on just so you can knock the axle back with a hammer and a piece of wood block. I would get a slide hammer tool. I bought one from Harbor Freight for this. I just replaced all wheel bearing on my car a few months ago when I did the complete suspension replacement. It was not too bad of a task with the right tools. If rusty, let everything soak with some PB Blaster. The front bearings can be a bitch to get out. Make sure to use anti-seize when installing new bearing.

Can not seem to find full synthetic trans fluid, kind calls for. Can mix regular fluid to the into the trans dipstick?
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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Take the castle nut off the axle, turn it around backwards and screw back on just so you can knock the axle back with a hammer and a piece of wood block. I would get a slide hammer tool. I bought one from Harbor Freight for this. I just replaced all wheel bearing on my car a few months ago when I did the complete suspension replacement. It was not too bad of a task with the right tools. If rusty, let everything soak with some PB Blaster. The front bearings can be a bitch to get out. Make sure to use anti-seize when installing new bearing.
I think its easier to just buy the wheel hub/bearing assembly so you don't have to press bearings, right? the bearings alone almost cost as much as the hub assembly...
 

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Can not seem to find full synthetic trans fluid, kind calls for. Can mix regular fluid to the into the trans dipstick?
auto or manual trans?
ooops, just saw you mentioned dipstick so you must mean auto trans fluid. I think the asian ATF is what most use, but I don't get why you can't find full synthetic?
 

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Can not seem to find full synthetic trans fluid, kind calls for. Can mix regular fluid to the into the trans dipstick?
I just changed my manual gear oil with Redline MT-85 and its a miracle oil. 90% of my grinding went away and there is virtually no grinding after the engine and tranny warms up. I dont know anything about the automatics.
 
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