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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i searched and searched, found similar problems , here is mine.

2001 stick, starter always was slow, then failed, replaced it. 2 weeks later it started most of the time, sometimes had to push start. pop starts easy.

then one day it wouldnt start even with a jump, turned over fine, no start, it pop started with a huge cloud of gas smelling smoke, then ran fine. threw engine code, crank position sensor.

then, my foot slipped off the clutch and i broke the cv axle, had it towed to mechanic.

now it will not start at all, except when push started. they thought maybe the ecu, but no way to test and too much $$ to throw that part at it.

today i told them to check the clutch switch w green and black wires, does that feed the ecu?


PLEASE HELP ME car has been in shop since november, my back up astro van just died and if it can not be started with starter i cant get inspection in pa and the car will be done, i love my car, planned the turbo.....so bummed.

near west chester / philly pa, if there is a 3g specialist i will have it towed to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Also, when you guys solve your problems, please post the solution when you resolve the issue, i read maybe 20 similar "wont start" posts and only a few members took the time to tell us what turned out as a fix. Thanks. and thanks for the big bump blackspydergt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Starter Turns motor

Starter Turns motor over just as it should, fast enough, sounds normal, but will not start unless it's push started.


Is there power to the ECU from the clutch/neutral switch? That is my guess Please keep throwing me Ideas.!!!

I need a schematic to see why it isn't getting spark unless push started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
could it be my ignition switch? bought one today. low compression? it did throw crankshaft code, replaced the sender, threw it again. ground? ARRRGGGG!!!

it turns over
its getting gas
guess ill stick my finger in the coil and check for spark tomorro{no helper}

what needs replaced for low compression?


if i have gas and spark and its turning over would running 24volts mess up anything else? super bright lights andfast wipers, but will i cook ecu with 24 volts? we used to hook up 12 volt batts on 6 volt motorcycles and man they started fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
one mechanic said he replaced it, but he is getting old, i'm throwing a new one on tomorro, is it as easy as the cam sensor?

I will check compression if i can borro a tester and get at the plugs.

Mechanic is sure it is the ECU, could that be it?

Also could i have messed up the timing? it seems to run ok but a few teeth might not affect preformance much.

Im bummed, 38 yearss old, in 20 years of wrenching i've never been so stumped.

maybe give up and take it to the dealer if the ignition switch isnt to blame.

thanks so much for the help, oh, and could low compression do this>?

i used to rip fuel injection off and put on aftermarket carb, no spark? run a wire to the coil, no start? push button to thesolenoid. i'm paying for the years of half assed now.

anyone wanna sell me a whole engine swap?

keep the ideas going guys n gals, love
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
is the crankshaft postion sensor the same thing as crankshaft angle sensor? different codes? would either cause no spark ONLY when starting?
 

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Crank sensor isn't as easy as the cam sensor. You gotta basically take it down to the To the timing belt (upper and lower timing covers, water pump pulley, drive belts, etc...). Once you take off the crank pulley and lower timing cover, you also have to (if I'm not mistaken) take the timing belt off so you can take off the crank sprocket, then the sensor comes off. You might be able to get it off without removing the belt, I don't quite remember.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the oil pump is timed on this engine......... It's got the balance shaft setup on this, so when setting the timing, you have to take out a site plug on the front of the engine and stick a screwdriver in there to make sure it's all lined up properly. Sound familiar? If not then I can explain in better detail and if the car hasn't started at all after the first cam sensor was put in I can almost guarantee that it's not timed right. One tooth off and this engine will not run correctly. Did you say you have no spark either? If this is the 2.4 (hopefully it is because that's what all this other info is about... Haha) you have an ignition failure sensor (unless its older and has cap and rotor).

Sorry I'm just blabbing out random info I know about my engine and hoping it helps.


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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
2.4.

one thing i forgot to add, the first time i got the 0035 bad crank position sensor code was the first time it wouldn't start with a jump. it was always slow to start {cranked slow) butt fired right up with pop start OR a jump!

the code light came on while we were jumping it, and that was the first time it cranked merrily but wouldnt start,

we all pushed it and it was way flooded, huge cloud of gas smoke, THEN later that day foot slipped off the clutch and broke an axle. unrelated.

Also, it ALMOST started with the key, if i quickly goosed it, again, it has spark in ON position, just not on start position.

so, it has to be related to that crank sensor, maybe a ground...anyone kno w where it grounds to? i'll try the plenum fireawall trick too.


last ditch idea, could i splice a wire into the thin black one on the starter, then to a button 12v? then i can leave key in "on" position and that should crank the motor? shoul be the same as pop starting it eh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Crank sensor isn't as easy as the cam sensor. You gotta basically take it down to the To the timing belt (upper and lower timing covers, water pump pulley, drive belts, etc...). Once you take off the crank pulley and lower timing cover, you also have to (if I'm not mistaken) take the timing belt off so you can take off the crank sprocket, then the sensor comes off. You might be able to get it off without removing the belt, I don't quite remember.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the oil pump is timed on this engine......... It's got the balance shaft setup on this, so when setting the timing, you have to take out a site plug on the front of the engine and stick a screwdriver in there to make sure it's all lined up properly. Sound familiar? If not then I can explain in better detail and if the car hasn't started at all after the first cam sensor was put in I can almost guarantee that it's not timed right. One tooth off and this engine will not run correctly. Did you say you have no spark either? If this is the 2.4 (hopefully it is because that's what all this other info is about... Haha) you have an ignition failure sensor (unless its older and has cap and rotor).

Sorry I'm just blabbing out random info I know about my engine and hoping it helps.


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HELPED a lot, jogged my memory. running killer, just have to pop it... i have too find where the 35 sensor grounds, i'm almost sure its that now, i read 100 posts tonite easy.

i wish i could tear that crap off and have a distributor.
 

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Yea if it still throws a crank sensor code either the new sensor is defective or there's a bad ground somewhere. Also, it's stupid but I've done it many times, make sure it's plugged in..... Sometimes you get carried away with the timing belt and putting everything back together that the sensor never gets plugged in. Also like I said about that timing... The belt has to go on to the pulleys in a certain sequence in order to get the tension between the cam and crank right . Start with crank, then oil pump, then idler, then cam, and so on... And this is an interference motor as well, so if you hear any pinging or knocking at all, you can bet your ass its not timed properly.

Hope it helps bro.


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