Did it out of no where start this?
Do a fuel pressure test and a backpressure test..

 

how does your intake snorkel look, mine would act weird when the thing sucked up onto the hood

 

Any Problems with battery?

Did your battery die or have you recently changed it? Maybe it need to relearn the idle. My car had a idle problem and I found this and it worked. Try the second one thats what fixed my car.

Pedal Relearn Procedure:agreed:
Accerlerator Pedal Released Postion Learning is and operation to learn the full released postions of the accerlerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelearator pedal postion sensor or ECM is disconnected.

1. Make Sure the acceleartor Pedal is fully released
2. Turn Ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 Seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 Seconds
4. Turn Ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn Ignition switch off and wait at least 10 seconds

Throttle Valve Relearn
Throttle Valve Closed Postion Learning is to learn the fully closed postion of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness of
electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnect.

1.Make sure accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition ON
3. Turn igntion switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during the 10 seconds by confrming the operating sound.
(You can hear the TB sound when you have key on and shifter in first gear and step on the gas. So you know what you listening for.)


Idle Air Volume Relearn Procedure:yum:
The Following Condtions Must be met in order for procedure to Work.

Battery Voltage :More than 12.9 volts at idle
Engine Coolant Temp 158-203 degrees Farenhiet
Electric Load Switch OFF i.e Air Condition, headlamps , rear defogger
Steering Wheel: Neutral Postion (Straight Ahead)
PNP Switch: OFF (Park Neutral Switch i.e. Clutch Switch...pretty sure)


1. Perform ACCERLEARATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSTIONS LEARNING
2. Perform THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING
3. Start engine and warm it up to operation temperature
4. Turn igniton switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds
5. Confirm Gas Pedal if fully realeased, then turn igniton switch ON and wait 3 seconds
6. Fully step on and release gas pedal 5 time within 5 seconds
8. Wait 7 seconds and fully step on gas and stay on until MIL stops blinking and is steady.
9. Fully release the Gas pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL has turned ON steady.
10. Start engine imediatly and let idle. Wait 20 seconds.

 

pull the throttle body. make sure everything is in good condition and clean it really good. that fixed my problem and its quick

 

your Maf sounds mest up. or you have a leak some where after it. Sounds like its in "limp mode" try unplugging your maf and see if it will allow you to drive at all it will then run off your TPS. And if it doesnt change check your intake manifold and intake for cracks. Evos do the exact same thing when intercooling piping pops off and you unplug the maf to get home

 

Bumping an old thread for updates….

My 2003 GS Spyder is experiencing this problem. Car starts and idles fine… but when pressing the gas pedal more than approx 1/4 way down, engine seems to die. With further investigation, I discovered that when I mash the gas pedal and hold it down, the engine initially revs, but then returns to approx 1500 RPM and runs very roughly there. The engine will rev to any RPM, as long as the pedal is not pressed more than 1/4 of the way down. I’ve also discovered that the engine does the same when the cruise control demands more than an equivalent position of throttle.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Can’t seem to find an answer on this one. Began throwing parts at it. First is replacing the original PCV valve. Got the idea from this thread: Car is still hesitating/stalling
Will update

 

I don't think you're supposed to clean the MAF.

 

if you have narrowed the problem to the MAF, then you have two choices: (1) replace it, and (2) try to carefully clean it with MAF cleaner ONLY.
Yes, the MAF sensor filament (or element) is very delicate and can be ruined when trying to clean it, especially if you use a solvent that is too corrosive. Hence, someone invented a solution specifically for MAF cleaning. I have had some success with the CRC brand, but cleaning at best will only prolong the lifespan of the MAF, and should only be considered a temporary fix. I have heard that the Factory part is getting hard to find and aftermarket ones are questionable, making it sometimes preferable to try cleaning it instead. There are YouTube videos on how to "carefully" clean a MAF.
Its a personal choice that involves the possibility of ruining an otherwise good MAF.
I have 93k on my MAF and so far so good.
However, I wouldn't recommend routine cleaning of the MAF as a preventative measure, as that COULD have the opposite effect of shortening its lifespan. As with any part, its usually a cost/benefit decision on whether to clean it or replace it.

 

Im having an issue similar however my idle smooths out after a minute, I’m thinking of replacing my idle air control valve as I saw another post on this forum that had an issue more similar to mine but still very relevant to yours. In that post they solved the issue by replacing the idle air control valve. Thought of doing that yet unless you’re already resolved.

 

My problem went from intermittent to permanent. Replaced the MAF and problem fixed. Never threw a code…

 

If it helps, I had a similar issue, because a gasket on the TB butterfly spindle failed. Bought a 50$ TB on ebay, and problem solved.

 

On the MAF that you replaced, did you purchase one from Autozone, Advanced, etc?

Thanks

 

Other than NAPA, stay away from chain store auto parts. Rockauto.com is a reliable online source if you can wait for shipping.