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bostonhatcher's awd 3G 4G63

172K views 809 replies 152 participants last post by  MitsuGuy2017  
#1 · (Edited)






















Currently the world's fastest 3g Eclipse - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_5KZReQabU


Engine

2.3 4G63 Stroker
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Wiseco Pistons
Balance Shaft Delete
Kelford 272 Camshafts
AEM Tru-Time Cam Gears
Buschur/Supertech Dual Valve Springs
Diamante Throttle Body (for cruise control)


Turbo/Exhaust

FP Black w/ Stainless Housing
4" Intake
AMS Intercooler
2.5" Stainless I/C Piping
Tial 50mm BOV
Stock Evo Exhaust Manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Fathouse Fabrications Downpipe
3" Aluminum V-Band Exhaust
HKS Hi-Power Muffler
4" Intake

Fuel

2G DSM AWD Fuel Tank/Fuel Sending Unit
Walbro 450lph E-85 Pump on Relay
-8an Stainless Feed
-6an Stainless Return
Perrin Fuel Rail
FIC 2150cc High Impedence Injectors
Fuel Lab Regulator and Filter

Drivetrain

Jack's Built Transmission/Transfer Case
Quaife LSD
Quartermaster 8-Leg Street Clutch Kit
Megan Short Shifter
Evo Rear Diff
DSS 3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft

Brakes

Wilwood 4-Pot Front Calipers/Aluminum Hat Rotors
Brembo Rear Brakes

Suspension

D2 Coilovers
ST Rear Sway Bar

Interior

MOMO Shift Knob
Kenwood Speakers
Alpine Receiver IVE-W530
Red LED Dash Lights
Cool White LED Floor Lighting


Exterior

Aero Duo Spoiler
GT Sideskirts
BBS Evo 9 Wheels
Moroso Cutoff Switch
Sonar Projectors/DDM Tuning HID's
 
#3 · (Edited)
I guess I'll go ahead and start with my build thread. I'm not too far but I need some motivation.

Stock parts I purchased

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Rear Subframe with Solid Aluminum Differential Bushings pressed in

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Before transformation...

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Rear end is most of the way in

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Mods/Prep before installation:

All parts painted with POR-15 Chassis Black Paint
Complete Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing Set
Stainless Steel Bolts
Undercoating
Suspension Techniques 18mm rear sway bar
New O.E.M. Wheel Hubs
New O.E.M. Balljoint Arms
New Moog Sway Bar Endlinks


Basically Evo everything in the front. I'm going to install everything stock just to make sure I can get it to work for a few months then I'm going to pull everything back out and build the motor/trans/xfer case. I got a local deal on a Precision SC61 turbo that I'll be putting on the stock motor but I'll eventually get a HTAGT35R.
 
#13 ·
Nice. I have to say, its way nicer to see this done to a 3g than a 2g. I was wondering, when you go to start on the engine bay, what subframe are you going to use. I've been gathering some information on trying to use a Galant vr-4 awd subframe from a left hand drive model. Any chance you could post up some pics of how your current subframe bolts up to the frame?
 
#14 ·
So let me ask, you didnt have to reform/cut out any of the lower pan of the car? Everything fit up into the frame fine? All of your pics make this look like a simple bolt on project thus far, is that true?
 
#15 ·
No you don't have to do anything to the lower pan. You have to cut 4 holes to get all the old subframe bolts out and put the longer ones in.

It took me about a week to do just the rear of the car and I worked everyday for about 7-8 hours and I work fast. You definitely could shave off some time by not putting in the polyurethane bushings or painting everything and just leaving the whole subframe together. All the stock parts, complete subframe, gas tank, gas nozzle, and ebrake cables were out out of my car in 30 minutes with just me working. If I were to do this again I could have it done in about 4-5 days because I know exactly which 2g/3g parts to use.

Does anyone want an awd setup?
 
#18 · (Edited)
Its an AWD fuel tank out of a 95-99 GSX. It has the tunnel in the middle for the drive shaft to get to the rear diff. I do have a question. People who have done the conversion on their 95-99 eclipse's from FWD to AWD had to do some work to get the thank to fit. Was the Tank a bolt on for the 3g or did you have to make some alterations to bolt locations or anything?
 
#17 ·
I wouldnt mind doing this awd conversion if I could find a tranny to fit up to the V-6. I doubt that the AWD tranny of the evo would work with our cars let alone the nightmare of trying to use both the V-6 ECU and an evo ECU. Maybe Evo motor swap down the line.
 
#19 ·
I doubt you would have to use an evo ecu for the transmission. Most manual transmissions don't use a computer. I think they only have ports on them for temp gauges and simple monitors. As for a transmission, I don't know if it will bolt up or not, but you can possibly use the VR-4 Galant Transmission thats awd. I don't remember the engine code, but its all over these forums.
 
#20 ·
No alterations to get the fuel tank to fit. Use the 2g fuel tank and 3g straps and relocate the drivers side rear tank strap bolt. There is already a hole with threads to screw a bolt into it.

I drove it for the first time today. Braking and handling improved a little bit from going to drums to discs and sway bar/poly bushings.

I also got my evo dropout today. I'll put pics up later.
 
#21 ·
I'm glad to hear that about the fuel tank. There was more cutting involved on the 2g than the 3g.

On the rear. At the top of the spindle, theres that Upper Trailing arm, did you have to convert it over to the AWD upper trailing arm.

I don't know how much difference it makes. On the 2g eclipes, they have this multilink design on the front like they still have on the back still. I know they took it off the 3g design. What purpose did that multilink design do and does it make any difference on handling on the 3g compaired to the 2g eclipse?
 
#23 ·
wow, so your done already?
 
#27 · (Edited)
So I bought this junk ass Evo dropout from this salvage yard over in New Jersey for $5500 shipped. They said they didn't know what condition the motor was in and they said the car had been wrecked. Obviously the motor had to be running to wreck the car right? Here is what I got:

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I knew I had to go through everything to find which parts needed replaced. I popped the valve cover to make sure everything was cool and the head bolts looked like the threads had protruded through the bolt head. And it looks like they had turned black from running junk oil. There was some kind of writing like apr or something on top.

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I wanted to make sure the clutch was ok and to make sure it was there I just took a peak through the shift fork boot and it looked like some dumbass spray painted the pressure plate yellow. What a ricer...

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I then went on to the bottom end and this is where I was happy. The pistons were really shiny so I knew they were healthy. Also, the connecting rod bolts had the same writing as the nasty black head bolts. Oh well. Everything was shiny so I was happy...

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Motor/Tranny is going in as soon as I get replacement parts...
 
#30 ·
could it be an ACT clutch?
 
#352 ·
Ya Act makes yellow clutches its probably not painted by someone, i highly doubt someone is that dumb.
 
#37 ·
Yea they are Eagle Rods w/ ARP 2000 Bolts and Wiseco Pistons. There are no balance shafts, just a stubby shaft. The balance shaft bearings were turned so the oil passages weren't lined up. The crank is balanced. You can still see the crosshatch in the cylinders. This motor probably doesn't even have over 1000 miles on it. I've been watching this dropout on ebay for almost a year and never could find the right time to start this project. I'm kind of surprised that it never sold but there's not too big of a market for guys wanting the whole front end of an Evo. I got one hell of a deal.

I'm starting off with the stock turbo and as soon as I get a manifold and wastegate, I'll be putting a BIG turbo on and will try for around 600-700 awhp. :drool:

Can you say 10 sec 3rd gen?