Remove the knuckle and work it from there. You could try vice grip and heat it up. then if that doesn't work weld a cheater lever to the bolt.

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How much of the thread is showing?

 

None of the thread is showing, but if I cut the shock off I should have a good 1 1/2 of thread.

Is the bolt a special order from a dealer or can I get it from a parts shop?

 

Mitsubishi sells those bolts as a separate piece, however the pin that it threads into is sold only as part of the knuckle ass'y even though it threads in to the knuckle as a separate piece. Are you replacing the rear struts? If so, just CAREFULLY cut a portion off the bottom of the strut attach "ring" and then convince it to come off. Mine were thoroughly rusted on there. I ended up cutting them off, then extracting the pin from the remains. In your case extracting the bolt leftovers may be a challenge. Bear in mind that a car at the scrapper may be just as stubborn.

 

:dunno: Doesn't hurt to ask. I managed to salvage both the bolt and pin. I was lucky I guess. Anti seize and lube are your friends when re-assembling.

 

Yes you were. This happened on the first rear strut so I might go threw it again on the other side too. :mecry2: But I do have brand new struts and springs so cutting the old shock is no problem but Im worried about the bolts and I have no idea what that pin your talking about looks like so Im not sure if those are good or not.

 

did you break the head off? if so you are in luck, slide the shock off, then you will notice the shaft that the shock slides on is actually bolted to the knuckle. you might be able to order it or you can always goto the junkyard

 

... you might be able to order it or you can always goto the junkyard

They are not sold separately from the knuckle by Mitsubishi unfortunately. I tried a little over a year ago myself. I ended up carefully extracting mine, cleaning, painting and then anti seizing both of mine. Just FYI.

 

Use an impact gun if possible after soaking it with a penetrating oil of some sort. That way you are more likely to get the bolt out, and only have to fight with the actual strut itself (on the mystery pin) which will be what you cut away to access.

You'll see what "pin" I'm talking about once you get the strut removed from the knuckle. Basically the way it's put together is that the bolt (which broke) threads in to what appears to be the knuckle itself, but it's actually a separate piece which then in turn is what actually threads in to the knuckle. One end is a smooth shank with an internal thread that your bolt goes in to, and the other end is like a big bolt that threads in to the knuckle ass'y.

 

:lol: you said the same thing i did

 

OP i got one better for oyu. i just so happen to have a knuckle laying around about to get thrown out. i can sell you the pin you want for $15 shipped.

 

I would like to buy that pin off you if you still have it.
Then I can bring it to a junkyard to use as a example to get a passenger side one as well.

 

^^^NICE!!!

 

tomorrow sure. use freeze off by crc works miracles

 

cool thanks.
And here are some pictures of my handy work.

 

i've heard Massachusetts was bad for rust but damn. that is pretty bad. but it's ok tou got lucky. by the way are those koni shocks?

 

you'll notice the fine layer of sand coating everything too cause that's how MA deals with snow lol. I'm not sure who makes those shocks there oem replacements, not koni though.

 

must be gabriel then. i think monroe are black and kyb are silver. did you get them from autozone?

 

Got them from CAP, Consumer Auto Parts I think that's what it stands for.

 

Just went through this with mine (though I didn't break the bolts off). Wound up just cutting off the shocks at the weld and then taking a cutoff wheel and cutting off the outer and inner sleeves once the main part of the shock was out of the way.

 

Nice pics. If you look in your second to last one, you'll see the hex right up against the knuckle. That belongs to the "pin". The rusty metal portion in the middle of the strut mount is the rest of it. That is SUPPOSED to be a separate part from the sleeve (shiny bit).

 

Hey guys this is great info- I'm looking at doing front & rear suspension on my GT this summer and had no idea about this pin/bolt/knuckle combo.

Do I understand the "fix" correctly? From the last picture- at this point, the snapped bolt (center layer) has to be extracted from the pin (middle rusty layer). Then the bottom eyelet of the shock has to be cut off with a dremel/grinder to remove the shock and the rubber bushing. Finally the bushing's metal sleeve (outermost shiny layer) has to be ground/chiseled/cut off of the pin (middle rusty layer)?

And when all is said and done, the pin (middle rusty layer) should be wire-brushed & POR-15'd and greased so the new shock slides over it, and anti-sieze should be used on a new bolt to go into the pin?

 

Easier way sincethe head broke off is to slide the shock off the pin then unbolt pin replace with a new bolt and your done

 

:agreed: Unless of course it is seized on the pin itself like both of mine were. That's where the cutting comes in.

 

Cool thanks guys, I'll be on the lookout for it when I change those struts.

Are all rear knuckles ("rear stub axle"?) the same across RS/GS/GT? I'm wondering if I should get a junkyard knuckle (or "rear stub axle") as a just-in-case before I start the job. I see some up on eBay, and from the pics, looks like that pin is included. (It seems the Galant is listed as cross-reference at the junkyard search at Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market , does that sound right?)

 

yes. in fact 2g eclipses too.

 

yah my pins are nothing but rust. I cant get the inner ring of the old shock off. At this point it might just be best to buy new rear knuckles, any know where to get them?

 

I just used a cutoff wheel and carefully cutoff the inner sleeve.

 

i can get them fro $120 new. but if oyu have a lot of rust it will be a serious pain in the ass

 

^^^^ditto

 

I used a rubber hammer on mine... but rust wasnt really that bad.

 

Anyone know the size of the hex on the pin? The biggest I have is 24mm and that's to small.

 

Wire brush followed with some Liquid Wrench to soak in for a little while and it'l be right back to factory torque spec.

 

I plan on using about half a can of liquid wrench on each pin lol, but I need to know what size Wrench I need to get the pin off the knuckle. Cause I need to buy one but I don't want to get the wrong size.

 

30MM was a little too big, wound up using a standard socket but I can't remember which size it was, I can check when I get home.

 

Thanks that would be a big help.

 

You can use an adjustable wrench as a cheap set of calipers to measure a hex, tighten it on the hex, then measure it with a regular mm ruler, should be able to get it almost exact. Actually you may want to buy a BIG (15" or 18") adjustable wrench to use instead, more "miles per $$" ... depends on how tight that pin is supposed to be. If torque spec is huge then an adjustable won't be worth it.

What's the torque on that pin-to-knuckle anyway? I see the lower strut bolt is 73 +/- 7 but can't find a pin-to-knuckle spec...

 

I got a 12" Adjustable wrench today and I cant get the pin to budge. I'm gonna find a fence post or something to put over the wrench to use like a breaker bar.