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Car won't start after fuel leak repair: Fuel pump or injector issue?

3.5K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  3gEclipseGST  
#1 ·
Aight guys well i dont ever post in here to much but i need your guys help. I just got done puting everything in my car yesterday. I went to go turn on my car but after one crank i smelt fuel so i stoped and i had a fuel leak so i fixed it and solved the problem. I went to start it again and it would just crank and not start. I am getin fuel and a spark and still nothin, I also took out the spark plugs to see if it was flooded but nothin on them or anything. And when i looked at my fpr gauge it would stay at zero and there has to be some pressure when u try and trun it on right? I dont know if it is my fuel pump or my injectors wont open? I need your guys help please
 
#3 ·
start at the tank and work your way forwards cranking to see where the break is in the fuel system.... disconect before fuel pump see if youre getting suction, then after to see if its pushing. then check for power and signal to the pump. if all is good then move up to the fpr, then to the injector lines.. gauge could be faulty a slim possibilty but possible.
 
#6 ·
So i have everything hooked up and the duel ecu's. But so far if i put the stock pump in the car starts. I also hooked up the 255 to the battery and the fuel that was in there shot out on me lol. So i dont know if i just put it in wrong or what but i did everything the same just like the stock pump? O and my bad i have the evo ecu.
 
#9 ·
Could be that your puny stock fuel pump wiring isn't supplying enough current to run the Walbro. I used to have intermittent starting issues with mine until I rewired it with a 10ga power wire from the battery. If your gas pedal won't depress it's probably because your throttle cable is seized up. Is it touching/running close to any hot parts like your exhaust manifold?
 
#10 ·
yea dude you left the cable to close to the manifold, you fried the cable. double check every thing before u start the car... for the evo ecu u need a base rom to run the car one. the stock evo settings wont work on our cars. the car will run like shit if u dont know what your doing. hit up your tuner and have him give u a base rom so u can rule out the possibility that your flooding the motor with to much fuel with the bigger injectors and the higher fuel pressure. what is your fpr set at? make sure your injectors are dialed in before u drive the car around. even doing down the road will mess shit up.
 
#11 ·
I got the base rom and everything set. And like u guys said the cable was next to the manifold so i melted the inside of it so. That problem if fixed. now just the dam pump i might rewire the dam thing. And voodoo how the hell did u get the 10ga to the pump? or did u just wire it to the wire on top of the seat?
 
#13 ·
Aight guys thanks for helpin me out and everything. NOW i got a new problem we went to go drive my car and on the tune the air temp was readin at -76 so we made the ohms to be a little over 330. and the temp didnt change it stayed the same. And the car would only go to like 2k and bounce back and forth. so we could only go about 5mph. I dont know what to do any ideas. Well if this makes scence to u guys. And sorry about spellin and all that. But thanks
 
#17 ·
Well i am tunein with the evoscan and runin the duel ecu's. And i am usin the stock maf sensor and it is set up for Suck-through thats about it no speed density or gm goin on. just stock. We added in resistors to make it a little over 330 ohm and the number didnt even change it stayed at -76. I dont know if that is makin the car only go to 2k and bouncen back then back up to 2k and back so the car is a bit jerky?