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Clipse3GT's RIPP SDS GT

73K views 651 replies 101 participants last post by  thahnic1080  
#1 · (Edited)
Clipse3GT's SDS GT

It runs like an ape...and spits fire like a dragon... VTEC THIS! :fawk:

21PSI @ 7,250 RPMS

In Action!!! August 6th, 2006

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In Action!!! July 23rd, 2006

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New brakes

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Stand Still

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Modifications

Engine:
Built 3.0L GT Engine
Wiseco 9.2:1 Pistons
SDS Stage 3+
Vortech V-1 S-TRIM SuperCharger
Boost Cooler
Belt Tensioner
Diamante VRX Manifold (Polished)
Ported and Polished Lower Intake Manifold
Proflow Throttlebody
ET Performance Krank Vents
ET Performance Brake Valve
MSD Coil Ignition Wires
NGK IX Irridum Spark Plugs
VR4 Fuel Rails
550cc RC Injectors Peak & Hold
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator with Gauge
Summit Racing AN-6 & AN-8 SS Braided Fuel Lines and Fittings
Custom Upper Intake Pipe
Tial 50mm BOV
HTS Silicone Couplers & T-Clamps
B&M Oil Cooler
Perma-Cool Oil Adapter
Perma-Cool Power Steering Cooler
CSF Racing Dual Core Radiator

Engine Management & Other Electronics & Ignition
Haltech E8 EMS Standalone
Haltech 3-Bar Map Sensor
Haltech Air Intake Temp Sensor
Haltech Water Temp Sensor
Haltech Throttle Position Sensor
Haltech Igniter
Haltech Dual Coil Packs
Taylor Battery Relocation (Rear)

Exhaust:
RIPP 1st Gen Full Length Headers
Straight Piping
Apexi N1 3" Exhaust

Transmission:
ACT Heavy Duty 2600 Clutch
Clutchmaster Aluminum Flywheel
Quaife Limited Slip Differential
B&M Short Shifter
Energy Suspension Bushings
Earl's SS Clutch Lines
RIPP Front Engine Mount
DMR Rear Firm Engine Mount
Prothane Side Mounts

Suspension & Brakes:
Megan Racing Full Race Coilovers
Eibach Pro-Kit Front Camber Kit
Eibach Pro-Kit Rear Camber Kit
Energy Suspension Front & Rear Bushings
BF Goodridge SS Brake Lines
Baer Track Kit Front
Powerslot Rear Rotors
Axxis Metal Master Pads Rear
RRE Strut Bars (x2)
ST Anti-Sway Bar & Bushings
Patriot Performance Front & Rear Endlinks
Nakayma X7 Racing Wheels 17"x7"
Falken Azenis RT615 235/40/17

Vitals:
AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge
Autometer Phantom Boost Gauge+ Vacuum
Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer Phantom Oil Temperature Gauge
Autometer Phantom EGT Gauge
Autometer Phantom Tachometer
Autometer Shiftlight connected to Haltech
Greddy Auto Turbo Timer

Apperance:
Dual Halo Projectors Black
TYC Taillights Titanium
Smokes Front Corners
VIS Carbon Fiber Invade Hood
Carbon Fiber Fuel Door
Sparco Hood Pins
Arospeed Racing Seats
Sparco 4-point Tuning Harnesses
Grillcraft 5 piece set
Greddy Counterweight Shift Knob
Autometer 3 Pod Piller
Clock Pod Guage Holder

Audio:
Alpine CDA-9851 HU
Alpine V12 345 4 Channel Amp
Alpine iPod Station
Infinity Kappa 6.5" 63.7i Race Speakers
Infinity Kappa 6x9" 693.7i Race SPeakers
Rockford Fosgate Wiring
Optima Red-Top Battery

This Winter!!!
New Custom Intake Manifold w/ 80mm TB
5Zigen ProRacer GN+ Bronze 17x7.5 42mm Offset

Need to put on car:
Full Race Heads
Fidanza Cam Gears
Cometic Headgasket 93mm

Feel free to post your comments. :twothumb:
 
#3 ·
Tearstone said:
Clean, elegant but the rims look small, you did an excellent job keeping it sleeperish for sure.

You have a lot of Autometer on your wishlist, are you going with those because of cost or what?
Well at $150-250 a pop for electrical guages I dont think it will be too cheap, also I like it in regular and not metric. :) Any suggestion for any other company that makes guages....?

Yeah the wheels are only 17x7... but I don't want too much rotational mass, also rather have more sidewall on the tire to reduce wheel hop. Maybe get some 18x7's in the future. :yesway:
 
#4 ·
Clipse3GT said:
Well at $150-250 a pop for electrical guages I dont think it will be too cheap, also I like it in regular and not metric. :) Any suggestion for any other company that makes guages....?

Yeah the wheels are only 17x7... but I don't want too much rotational mass, also rather have more sidewall on the tire to reduce wheel hop. Maybe get some 18x7's in the future. :yesway:
If your getting charged $150-250 a pop for electrical Autometers your getting f*d in the "A". The reason vendors push Autometer so hard is because there is more money to be made off of them, not because they are better. The gauges that we all run here are Greddy. While yes, they are metric but they are reliable, accurate, cost effective, lots of variety and we have never had a problem with them. Just run some searches.

Seeing as how you have a lot of money invested into your car, you should look into getting some decent racing rims to go along with it. My favorite are Volks. RRE recommends using 17x7 for handling and sidewall purposes of course, which is fine. But you could always save your 17x7 for the track and 18x7.5 for the street.
 
#5 ·
Tearstone said:
If your getting charged $150-250 a pop for electrical Autometers your getting f*d in the "A". The reason vendors push Autometer so hard is because there is more money to be made off of them, not because they are better. The gauges that we all run here are Greddy. While yes, they are metric but they are reliable, accurate, cost effective, lots of variety and we have never had a problem with them. Just run some searches.

Seeing as how you have a lot of money invested into your car, you should look into getting some decent racing rims to go along with it. My favorite are Volks. RRE recommends using 17x7 for handling and sidewall purposes of course, which is fine. But you could always save your 17x7 for the track and 18x7.5 for the street.
New wheels are going to be really my last priority now, need to get the car a bit more performance.

As for guages Greddy Guages cost the same as Autometers... in reality almost all Guage vendors have nearly the same prices for them.
 
#6 ·
Clipse3GT said:
New wheels are going to be really my last priority now, need to get the car a bit more performance.

As for guages Greddy Guages cost the same as Autometers... in reality almost all Guage vendors have nearly the same prices for them.
I feel you on that, I'm only concentrating on my engine bay right now :lol:

With that list of Autometer gauges, are all of them electrical? Mechanical gauges are like $50~$60 http://www.titanmotorsports.com/ulser.html

Check these threads out:

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27311
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4759
 
#7 ·
Looks good as always Kris, I hope we can get your fuel issue solved in the winter time so we can cruise around next summer! :yesway:


Who...





...Mike Jones!
 
#8 ·
Tearstone said:
If your getting charged $150-250 a pop for electrical Autometers your getting f*d in the "A". The reason vendors push Autometer so hard is because there is more money to be made off of them, not because they are better. The gauges that we all run here are Greddy. While yes, they are metric but they are reliable, accurate, cost effective, lots of variety and we have never had a problem with them. Just run some searches.
I gotta tell ya - I've run a lot of gauges over the years, and I've never had a problem with AutoMeters. Why pay more?
 
#9 ·
Doric said:
I gotta tell ya - I've run a lot of gauges over the years, and I've never had a problem with AutoMeters. Why pay more?
You pay more for the appreciation of quality that went into the product. Whatever works best for you, but there are better alternatives and converting over a car that was not meant to have forced induction, quality of the gauges you use surely should not be sacrificed.

Sorry for the thread jack. We can pick this autometer conversation up on one of the threads I just posted above.
 
#20 ·
nice ride. sucks you gotta storage it :(

as per the guages, I never had issues with Autometer. I never believed the "hype" that you had to pay $300 for a guage that does the same thing a $70 one does. I even tested my guages (boost, fuel & oil) with shop tools the electric senders for autometer fuel and oil, and both were in check. The only shops I ever heard that trash autometer are ones that want you to give them more money for Apexi or Greddy. Dont waste money unless you are one of those guys that have to put funky expesive stuff in a car to sound cool. my opinion and experiences.
 
#21 ·
TheFranchise said:
nice ride. sucks you gotta storage it :(

as per the guages, I never had issues with Autometer. I never believed the "hype" that you had to pay $300 for a guage that does the same thing a $70 one does. I even tested my guages (boost, fuel & oil) with shop tools the electric senders for autometer fuel and oil, and both were in check. The only shops I ever heard that trash autometer are ones that want you to give them more money for Apexi or Greddy. Dont waste money unless you are one of those guys that have to put funky expesive stuff in a car to sound cool. my opinion and experiences.
Yeah... I miss driving it.

I see your point Shane, after searching around and looking around for a while, mechanical guages will be a lot cheaper and show the same #'s with the same accuracy. For 200 bucks I can 3 guages instead of one, I will just go that route.
 
#597 ·
Breaking axles???? The axles shouldn't be breaking. Its one of the things on this car that is fairly strong. My friend Matt at 3SX performance has a FWD 3000GT which has the same axles as we have and has his car putting down 900hp, not a misprint either and hasn't snapped the stock ones yet.
 
#25 ·
Tearstone said:
I hope you did not sell these based on my posts today :(

http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51605

Josh: I already know what kind of gauges you are getting and I am quite envious to say the least :)
No not really, I was gonna sell them anyways, I just wanted the clock pod guage holder, but the guages came with it, I just don't need these guages. I will go with Autometer Phantom seris mechanical ones, it just cheaper and they do the same fuckin thing. So it dosent matter I rather spend 300 for all guages than for 1. Save it for other mods, like some high strengh axles.
 
#26 ·
TheFranchise said:
as per the guages, I never had issues with Autometer. I never believed the "hype" that you had to pay $300 for a guage that does the same thing a $70 one does. I even tested my guages (boost, fuel & oil) with shop tools the electric senders for autometer fuel and oil, and both were in check. The only shops I ever heard that trash autometer are ones that want you to give them more money for Apexi or Greddy. Dont waste money unless you are one of those guys that have to put funky expesive stuff in a car to sound cool. my opinion and experiences.
This'll probably never happen again, but I completely agree on all points.