[Cheesedoodle]

OKay guys i have an aeromotive FPR flowing 62.0 even on my duno pulls.
450 stck 1 g injectors. Resistor pack. 255 pump. Larger return and flow lines throughout. Safc-2 Tuning. Throttle points set to 40%\50% - On the dyno i was commin up lean. 4th Gear pulls WOT from about I would hit 14.0 AFR (LEAN) and then drop down to a (more safe but not acceptabe) 12.8 AFR up top. Im lean early then richenng up. The safc seemed to have almost no effect. Its is hooked up forrectly tho, as it does change. We needed it to set the idle and such. Also, to test it, we took the low throttle 800RPM and dropped it down to -50..car wanted to die. Back up to where it was, idled fine, then raided to +50, wanted to bog out again. SAFC IS working. I cant figure out what is causing me to still be so lean. The fuel system is huge compared to stock, and im only running 8.4 PSI on a 14b for now.

Does anyone have any idea why i cant make this puppy more rich? It should be dumping fuel like a tanker truck.

450's..safc richened WAY up, aeromotive FPR...255 pump...
I think the lean condition is affecting my EGT's - its possible the gauge might be off (ive heard automotive isnt the best of egt's) but sometimes ill drive around and she'll get up to 1200, this is driving nicely(outta boost)too Most people ahve reported 1000-1100. Idle at about 900
At 70 MPH on the thru way, ive gotten up to about 1300.

On the dyno - She put down as is now, 201 WHP anmd 250 WTRQ. I was hoping for a bit more HP, liek te 220 range, but it is only a 14b on a stock gutted exhaust w\ a 2' DP (till i get the AC outta there ASAP )at only 8.4 PSI.

5sp 2000 GS
Any ideas Fellas!?

 

[buckethead]

Is the 255 fuel pump the high pressure or regular version?

 

[Cheesedoodle]

To be quite honest, im not sure - when i ordered it, i wasnt given an option, just the fact that its a 255 walbro pump.

 

[NAPALM]

You need to be more thorough.

What is the static idle pressure?
FPR flowing 62.0 what?
Im assuming you mean there is 62PSI of pressure?? IN which case, THe FPR doesnt flow, it blocks fuel to create pressure.

62PSI when? Part throttle/vacuum/boost/how much boost/etc?

You should be at 38-40PSI static idle pressure.
Then 1PSI of fuel incrase for every 1PSI of boost(asssuming you have 1:1 FPR). SO at 10PSI of boost you should see 48-50PSI of fuel.

Looks like your FPR isnt dialed in.

EDIT:
BTW: this wasnt meant as a solution. This was just a place to start becuase you have too much fuel pressure to begin with.

 

[TheFranchise]

255 reg or HP isnt going to make a difference at 62psi so dont sweat that. both flow near the same around that range

 

[Cheesedoodle]

You need to be more thorough.

What is the static idle pressure?
FPR flowing 62.0 what?
Im assuming you mean there is 62PSI of pressure?? IN which case, THe FPR doesnt flow, it blocks fuel to create pressure.

62PSI when? Part throttle/vacuum/boost/how much boost/etc?

You should be at 38-40PSI static idle pressure.
Then 1PSI of fuel incrase for every 1PSI of boost(asssuming you have 1:1 FPR). SO at 10PSI of boost you should see 48-50PSI of fuel.

Looks like your FPR isnt dialed in.

EDIT:
BTW: this wasnt meant as a solution. This was just a place to start becuase you have too much fuel pressure to begin with.

at idle w\ vaccuum disconnected, its at 45.2 PSI - under load\boost its at a constant 62.0 PSI - WOT

Yeap, it is a 1:1 - Aeromotive A1000-6 1:1 FPR - to be exact

Okay i get the 1psi boost 1 psi fuel pressure but what i dont understand is, the readout on the dyno measured the boost at 8.4, spiked to 9 a few times in the beginning of WOT. So if its technically set to 45.3 wouldnt a 62 be a 17psi jump? I know im not making the connection here completely, but im tryin to learn. I do apprecaite the help guys.

If i lower the pressure, i am running leaner. 6 dyno pulls proved this. I'll get a digi cam and get em posed up to show ya guys the compariston.

 

[NAPALM]

at idle w\ vaccuum disconnected, its at 45.2 PSI - under load\boost its at a constant 62.0 PSI - WOT

Yeap, it is a 1:1 - Aeromotive A1000-6 1:1 FPR - to be exact

Okay i get the 1psi boost 1 psi fuel pressure but what i dont understand is, the readout on the dyno measured the boost at 8.4, spiked to 9 a few times in the beginning of WOT. So if its technically set to 45.3 wouldnt a 62 be a 17psi jump? I know im not making the connection here completely, but im tryin to learn. I do apprecaite the help guys.

If i lower the pressure, i am running leaner. 6 dyno pulls proved this. I'll get a digi cam and get em posed up to show ya guys the compariston.

Im assuming there isnt any engine codes, misfiring, shit like that?

 

[Cheesedoodle]

no mis-firing. Catalatic Converted has been gutted - the o2 is throwing a code from that - check engine light - But, If that dosent put the car into limp mode of any sort, how could that effect the tune?

 

[NAPALM]

no mis-firing. Catalatic Converted has been gutted - the o2 is throwing a code from that - check engine light - But, If that dosent put the car into limp mode of any sort, how could that effect the tune?

What code is it?

 

[BluBlur02]

I had a pretty much the same problem man...

Sorry to inform you that MY fix was to replace the SAFC2 with an emanage.

After install of the emanage the tune came out beautifully...

good luck man...

 

[Tanknuts]

its been proven that safc is not as productive when larger injectors are used so what u need to do is go emanage or ems

 

[BluBlur02]

thats not what you told the other guy

 

[NAPALM]

its been proven that safc is not as productive when larger injectors are used so what u need to do is go emanage or ems

Umm naa not really. It will always produce the exact same +/- 50% in airflow signal alteration no matter if you have 2000000cc or 2cc injectors.

The problem is that altering airflow signals is only good for so much before its not going to help idle the injectors properly, and sometimes even make everything worse.

What most people dont realize is that the emanage idles injectors the exact same way as the SAFCII. That is; by altering airlfow signals. The only means of cutting fuel back, that the emange has, is to alter the airflow signal. The emanage can only cut it back, or add 50% just like the SAFCII. The advantage that the emanage has is in its ability to lengthen injector pulses directly and of course, ignition timing.

That said; his problem isnt that he cant cut fuel back too much, nor that he cant give the car enough fuel.

Its more than likely a combination of tuning, and a other things.

 

[Tanknuts]

thanks for clearing that up napalm, i've always been under the impression that the emanage was better because you could calculate in for bigger injectors,

 

[NAPALM]

thanks for clearing that up napalm, i've always been under the impression that the emanage was better because you could calculate in for bigger injectors,

You can. But all it does is alter the airflow signal.

 

[Cheesedoodle]

Could it be that its SO rich that the STFT or LTFT is in the negative, so the computer is leaning itself out? I Have to get ahold of the data logger again. Im going to buy my own eventually, its a nesscessity - I was looking inot the CarChipE\X, its SEEEMS decent, but the whole "get what you pay for" lingo still is a lession ive learned the hard way. Id like to not do it agian. Gunna search and do some research on that guy.

 

[balla4880]

Could it be that its SO rich that the STFT or LTFT is in the negative, so the computer is leaning itself out? I Have to get ahold of the data logger again. Im going to buy my own eventually, its a nesscessity - I was looking inot the CarChipE\X, its SEEEMS decent, but the whole "get what you pay for" lingo still is a lession ive learned the hard way. Id like to not do it agian. Gunna search and do some research on that guy.

I only have one word to say to you "Pocketlogger". It is hands down the best when it comes to tuning. I would have probably blown my engine up 1,000 times over if I did not have it. www.pocketlogger.com Now you can even log a zeitronix wideband.



Yeah i would say your fuel trims are all out of whack. Check them and get back to us.

 

[Guest]

I would agree. The pocketlogger is a great tool for monitoring parameters. It won't do knock, but it has just about all the other parameters you really should be watching.

If you're having a problem with LTFT, you can reset the ECU. However, you don't just disconnect it for a while..... You have to remove BOTH terminals, then touch them together for 10-20 seconds to clear the ECU's CMOS. It also allows for discharge of the capacitors that HOLD the current tune in the CMOS. If you just disconnect 1 of the terminals, the capacitors won't discharge, and the CMOS will hold under the power of the capacitors for what could be many hours to even days depending on the caps, resistors, and filters used in our ECU.

 

[balla4880]

Your right it wont directly log knock, but it will show actuall ignition timing. So if you have a knock sensor on your car you can see when the ecu pulls timing and adjust in that area.

 

[NAPALM]

Could it be that its SO rich that the STFT or LTFT is in the negative, so the computer is leaning itself out? I Have to get ahold of the data logger again. Im going to buy my own eventually, its a nesscessity - I was looking inot the CarChipE\X, its SEEEMS decent, but the whole "get what you pay for" lingo still is a lession ive learned the hard way. Id like to not do it agian. Gunna search and do some research on that guy.

Ive used that thing. Its cool for monitoring driving patterns. Its useless for tuning.

I returned it and got the POcketlogger.

www.pocketlogger.com Now you can even log a zeitronix wideband.

Wow I didnt know that. Sweet Ill have to check that out. THanks!

If you're having a problem with LTFT, you can reset the ECU. However, you don't just disconnect it for a while..... You have to remove BOTH terminals, then touch them together for 10-20 seconds to clear the ECU's CMOS. It also allows for discharge of the capacitors that HOLD the current tune in the CMOS. If you just disconnect 1 of the terminals, the capacitors won't discharge, and the CMOS will hold under the power of the capacitors for what could be many hours to even days depending on the caps, resistors, and filters used in our ECU.

Who told you all of this?
I have personally reset my fuel trims dozens of times by just disconnecting the negative terminal for 20seconds or less then reconnecting.

Its pretty obvious when the fuel trims are reset, if not just by how the car runs but also by what the pocketlogger shows.