Another sort of helpful hint, if you search you can find it.
Anyone who is installing an aftermarket flywheel such as the F1 chromemoly (After they advised me I need to install these plates, and obviously doing no research at all on the products added thickness)

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The plate on the left you use to align the clutch plate with the supplied clutch alignment tool, if you look at the raised portion in the center and are using an aftermarket flywheel it most likely will hit the input shaft on the transmission. Yes you can eye ball the clutch disk during install and not use either plates like many members do. For me installing the F1 flywheel for a friend, I can guarantee that the plate will hit the input shaft after they advised me it would not obstruct anything, after starting up a hearing a very loud belt squeal noise and thinking what could have gone wrong and then having to take the transmission out to see that the plate was bent inward and starting to be ground down by the input shaft, I was not very happy with F1. Just a help full hint so anyone dose not have to pull out their manual transmission twice...:facepalm:

 

Is that last post true? I'm just finishing a clutch/flywheel job, and this is a SoB so far, I have both plates in, will I get the grinding noise you're mentioning? Someone please throwdown some insight. I installed the eclutchmaster stage2+16lb flywheel. Thanks!

 

Im at this step too and the rod wont budge. I've tried prying it and hitting it with a screwdriver and hammer and it still wont move. I've soaked it PB Blaster and brake clean. Any other ideas?

 

This is pretty simple, yet I was somewhat confused at first. I decided to make a tutorial for anyone that doesn't really understand what's going on.
This tutorial is for the 5-speed manual transmission for either the Dodge Stratus, Mitsubishi Eclipse, Mitsubishi Galant, or Chrysler Sebring.
Refer to this video for a spacial view of where everything is and what to remove:
YouTube - How To: Replace V6 Throw-Out Bearing


-Remove the slave cylinder

-Remove the cap on directly on top of the fork's pivot axle
-Remove the bolt holding the pivot axle in place

-Take note of the spring positions; there are rubber gaskets in between the fork and the springs
-Slide the pivot axle up and threw the hole. If it's hard to move, take anything that will fit in the hole (I found that an allen wrench worked really well for this) and push it up. It does not need to be unscrewed, though you may have to rotate it left and right to get it to move. The first picture was actually taken after the TOB was already replaced, so don't mind how the spring isn't set yet
-> ->
-Once the fork is completely off of the pivot axle, pull the fork far enough forward to remove the throw-off bearing
-Put the new throw-off bearing on the fork, and put the fork back in position
-Put the springs and gaskets back while sliding the pivot axle back down


In this picture, you can see that the bottom spring isn't placed behind the fork yet, essentially not applying pressure. I found it easier to place it behind the fork AFTER the pivot axle was already through the spring. Common sense, but I had the spring applying pressure on the fork on the top spring when I was trying to line up the pivot axle and it was a real PITA. Could save you a couple minutes.

-Line up the hole on the pivot axle with the hole behind it, and then put the bolt back
-Replace the cap on top

I did everything right, just like your pics. Got it all together and ....no clutch. The arm stayed all the way forward and I don't know why. (the same way that is the 'b' position as the manual says- after releasing the bearing). I just pulled it apart again and everything looks good. Well, except the ring and spring that holds the bearing to the pressure plate but I think I did that pulling it this last time.
What would keep the clutch disengaged like that?