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djthedj

· Eclipse Lover
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37 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello. I know there are similar threads, but I'd like to rant about my car for a bit, and ask your advice since you all have been very helpful to me and everyone else.

If you've seen my other threads, you'd know I bought several parts to tune up and try to save my 3G that I bought in April. I bought new NGK plugs, wires, an engine mount, timing belt / water pump, and all these gaskets: http://www.club3g.com/forum/new-members-forum/203834-new-forum-need-advice.html#post3882418

Just before the weekend I was going to have all this done, the car stalled out and died. The funny thing is that if you wait about 20 minutes, it starts just fine and holds its own idle. When it stalled on me the 1st time, I made it to a friend's house where I was going to let it sit and possible drive it home the next day. I called my wife for a ride home, but my neighbor showed up instead. And as I stated in my last thread, he threw 2 random spark plugs in there just to see what it would do, and it missed like crazy, but I was able to drive home that night. So he wanted to be the hero and change my plugs and wires for me since I had new ones waiting to go in.

To me, just changing the spark plugs on a car that doesn't want to run is the same as polishing a turd. Who agrees there? ....anyway, being a V6, this was not a task I wanted to tackle on my own, so he did it. It took him 5 days, but it finally had new plugs and it cranked it ran just fine straight away.

We test drove it, and sure enough, after it reached warm temp, it stalled and died. Restarted it and it was a surging idle, nearly dying, then rpm's raised back up and it kept doing this and it was missing really bad. The only difference is that it is now throwing a code. So I took it to the shop as I had already planned to do.

The shop found the code was "bank 1" which happens to be the bitch part of the work in changing the plugs nearest the firewall under the intake. They say there is air seeping in between the plenum / gasket. And said cars do this if not that intake was not properly torqued. They also said it could be my O2 sensor and they'll have to test each sensor on bank 1. This will take them weeks I am sure!

So why I say the shop isn't much help so far is that all they're doing right now is fixing the mistakes of the guy who just wanted to help.

What in the world was my original problem? And a couple more questions, that I keep reading that if the intake was not put back on good enough, the car won't even start, and I've read that if it's the O2 sensor, that it should go in to "limp" mode where it can still run. But seems what's happening is that it's running so rich it can't burn it all which is causing the miss after new plugs / wires.

Any input please? I don't to tell the mechanics at the shop how to do their job, and I've told them everything, but once they're done, we'll be back at square one, with a properly repaired car that still stalls at warm temps. Do I try to relax and let them arrive at a conclusion on their own, or do I keep searching this forum? Remember my original problem before any work was that it stalled out on me one time, and if left alone for about 20 mins it holds its own idle, but it stalls after about another 20 mins of driving.
 
Your original and still overarching problem is a fried MAF. At operating temp idle conditions the MAF is at the very bottom of it's ability to meter air, when they get old/dirty/fried they can't do it anymore and the car stalls once warm.

Go tell you neighbor he's a moron. Plug change even on a GTS shouldn't take more than an hour and a half if you know what you're doing.
 
Your original and still overarching problem is a fried MAF. At operating temp idle conditions the MAF is at the very bottom of it's ability to meter air, when they get old/dirty/fried they can't do it anymore and the car stalls once warm.

Go tell you neighbor he's a moron. Plug change even on a GTS shouldn't take more than an hour and a half if you know what you're doing.
Yep, I tried the plenum removal like Haynes said, and it sucked real bad. On the second go around I just unbolted any thing that bolted to the intake, and removed it. We left everything in place, just unbolted all the brackets, doo-dads, and throttle body. It took me a couple hours to R&R, since I like taking breaks. Mine is a GTS.

I would suppose if his MAF is bad he can disconnect it and drive it awhile to confirm that the car continues to run (in open loop of course)...
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Go tell you neighbor he's a moron. Plug change even on a GTS shouldn't take more than an hour and a half if you know what you're doing.
You don't even know the half of it.

Your original and still overarching problem is a fried MAF. At operating temp idle conditions the MAF is at the very bottom of it's ability to meter air, when they get old/dirty/fried they can't do it anymore and the car stalls once warm.
I forgot to mention I cleaned the MAF with the spray they sell at AutoZone. It did make a difference and can hear engine idle change going from open to closed loop. It didn't fix it completely, but did help a little bit.

Is the mass air still the problem? It would make a lot of sense.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Guess you didn't read the thread about never cleaning the MAF?
Actually I did, and I figure I didn't have anything to lose (besides the $219 for a new one)

Ok, then that tells me that despite everything, it's the damn MAF sensor. I knew you guys could help with my accurate description.

Now, tell me, why is it in every car 2002 and newer is there a problem with that damn mass air flow?

Anyway, thanks guys. If all agree that that's what my original problem is, then I'll talk to the mechanics shop today. If not, please post your opinion.
 
I dont have a problem with mine, ever after installing a CAI. Not every car has the type of MAF used on the Eclipse (and/or other Mitsubishi products?) I've cleaned many a MAF in my time, but I read the stuff on here and I take it as gospel; therefore, I shall never clean my MAF (except to blow it off with air, very carefully).
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks again guys, Silvertune & Jkeaton. You've commented on my other threads as well and wouldn't have got this far without you guys.

I did inform the auto shop that's probably what the problem is, and took nerdybiker's advice quoted below, and behold, the missing and surging idle went away when disconnected, but then of course it threw a code for the MAF.

I would suppose if his MAF is bad he can disconnect it and drive it awhile to confirm that the car continues to run (in open loop of course)...
^^ already thanked

Anyway, Since I did tell them that's what we think the original problem is, yet it's throwing a "bank 1" code (no particular sensor), the guy said Mon or Tues they'll hook it up to a computer and read the data from each one and even if it doesn't throw a code, he'll see if one is malfunctioning or not. Again, thanks so much, wouldn't have come this far without you all!

Now, tell me, why is it in every car 2002 and newer is there a problem with that damn mass air flow?
I dont have a problem with mine, ever after installing a CAI. Not every car has the type of MAF used on the Eclipse (and/or other Mitsubishi products?)…………….
What I mean is my wife got a Hyundai and it threw a code for MAF when is was pretty new, $500 for one from the dealer. Then a bought a car from a friend for cheap cuz he couldn't keep it running. I unplugged the MAF and drove it up until I bought this Eclipse. Then the list goes on where it seems to be the start of a car's problem. Mainly Hyundai's though; mine is the 1st Eclipse I've seen where this could actually be the problem.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Just an update:

The shop called. Guess what they said my problem is. Mass air flow sensor. Unbelievable! You guys were right. They'll have a new one on there tomorrow and I can come pick it up.

I sure hope that really does fix the problem. He did assure me that he hooked it up to a computer and read the output of all the sensors and that's how he was able to tell what it was. But then why was the code "bank 1" thrown if all the other sensors are good?
 
Just an update:

The shop called. Guess what they said my problem is. Mass air flow sensor. Unbelievable! You guys were right. They'll have a new one on there tomorrow and I can come pick it up.

I sure hope that really does fix the problem. He did assure me that he hooked it up to a computer and read the output of all the sensors and that's how he was able to tell what it was. But then why was the code "bank 1" thrown if all the other sensors are good?
Just out of curiosity, what are your new spark plugs gapped at? Do you know? You can get a Sparkplug Gapping tool and measure it. You have a 2003 GTS just like me and the Sparkplug Gap should be clearly written under the hood on the passenger side. It should have a Mitsubishi Logo on it with instructions saying that the plug gap should be:

Image


0.028 to a max plug gap of 0.032, You can buy a Coin Gap measuring tool for Spark Plugs at Autozone for like $1.

Just like in the picture above.

Some Mechanics believe that the Sparkplugs are pre-gapped correctly for your car, but that's not always the case. The Sparkplugs I bought came in pre-gapped at 0.044 and that's just not within specifications for an 03 GTS V6.

If it is not within that range for a mostly stock car, it will likely misfire and if it is gapped correctly, then it could be your Spark Plug wires are bad or you could have a bad Cap and Rotor that need replacing.

You can get a Sparkplug Socket and take out the sparkplugs on the front near the bumper to check for the first 3 Cylinders, if those 3 are not within that gap, I wouldn't pay your mechanic until they are all gapped correctly. Chances are he probably got all 6 Sparkplugs gapped wrong if that's true.

Hope it helps.
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
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Just out of curiosity, what are your new spark plugs gapped at? Do you know? ……

0.028 to a max plug gap of 0.032 ……
Some Mechanics believe that the Sparkplugs are pre-gapped correctly for your car, but that's not always the case. The Sparkplugs I bought came in pre-gapped at 0.044 and that's just not within specifications for an 03 GTS V6.

……….
For some reason, all of the NGK plugs sold at AutoZone are gapped at .044, and yes you are correct, that is not the correct gapping. Searching this forum for advice on that was not helpful since different people have different mods and should have a different gap. As for my car, as well as yours, the service manual specifies .039~.043 which means just throwing in new plugs assuming they are gapped is dumb, and unfair to people who do assume they're pre-gapped.

I have had experience with this in my 2nd Gen Eclipse. I bought iridium instead of the normal platimums one time and it didn't run right, turns out that was the same issue you're talking about. The box says "pre-gapped" but the gap was a bit too much so I had to smash them down then gap them myself. That car ran great. So I've always researched for any car since then.

As I was saying about my current 3rd Gen, the NGK's are gapped at .044, all but one type, which is the one I bought (so that the gap isn't too big, it's easier to gap it yourself if it is too small) It is Part 7092 which I bought here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...rk-Plug/2003-Mitsubishi-Eclipse/_/N-jkll5Z8gctd?itemIdentifier=505373_0_0_89792
since when I gave that part # to them, they said that one was OEM anyway so no need in spending quadruple on some iridiums.

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dont ever!!!! use maf cleaner on mitsubishi mafs it says right on the can, it will ruin it.
It must have already been ruined, and cleaning it wasn't actually my idea, he said that if it improved the idle that I will still have to replace it.


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So to rant, they should not sell spark plugs which gap is too big, and they should not sell MAF Cleaner as well.
 
Ah... I got the NGK 7090's recently and they are pre-gapped at .44 :-( EDIT: I checked the label under the hood, and it indeed says .039 to 0.43, so 44 is simply too big. Curious that it was the most commonly offered gap size from Rock Auto for this model of car.
 
add

For some reason, all of the NGK plugs sold at AutoZone are gapped at .044, and yes you are correct, that is not the correct gapping. Searching this forum for advice on that was not helpful since different people have different mods and should have a different gap. As for my car, as well as yours, the service manual specifies .039~.043 which means just throwing in new plugs assuming they are gapped is dumb, and unfair to people who do assume they're pre-gapped.
Well now, I just read this and thought "I'm taking the plenum off again".

I've put IridiumIX's in mine twice now, from AutoZone, and it stumbles under a load bad at low r's and a p0300 I hadn't figured out. It makes sense though, with the higher compression.

Thanks for the info!
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Wasn't the MAF!!!!! I got my car from the shop today with a new MAF installed. It does the same, drives for a few miles, idles around 500RPM and gets lower and lower. The only difference is it doesn't do the 'surging idle' and even at very low idle speed, it sounds rather smooth, but doing as much as turning the wheel puts too much of a load on an already low idle that it stalls.

So I did not get all the way back to work. Hoping maybe after work, it had time to sit for a while, that I'll at least get it back home. The shop is as baffled as can be since they thought the same as you all, but nope, it still dies.
 
I'd unplug the maf (or anything else that would force open loop), and see if it behaved the same on the drive home. My thought is that if doesn't do the same thing (relatively speaking of course, being in open loop), you could lean towards going over the other sensors required for closed loop / normal operation. If it does the same thing in open loop (idles bad, etc), one could point away from sensors to other problems. Just a thought, again I'm a ford guy learning mitsu. heh
 
Wasn't the MAF!!!!! I got my car from the shop today with a new MAF installed. It does the same, drives for a few miles, idles around 500RPM and gets lower and lower. The only difference is it doesn't do the 'surging idle' and even at very low idle speed, it sounds rather smooth, but doing as much as turning the wheel puts too much of a load on an already low idle that it stalls.

So I did not get all the way back to work. Hoping maybe after work, it had time to sit for a while, that I'll at least get it back home. The shop is as baffled as can be since they thought the same as you all, but nope, it still dies.
So you paid $200 for nothing? I would get a refund if I were you. A good mechanic can do a voltage test on the ground and positive on a mass airflow sensor using a volt meter and if the voltage changes when you open the throttle by pulling on the throttle body cable or step on the gas on the volt meter, it means the MAF is working right, it does not need to be replaced. The other thing I have heard is that you can tap it hard with your hand and if the idle changes the MAF is bad.

Hook it up to a OBD2 scanner and check the codes. What codes are you getting? If you dont have an OBD2 Scanner try going to Autozone and get them to tell you the codes.
 
add

For some reason, all of the NGK plugs sold at AutoZone are gapped at .044, and yes you are correct, that is not the correct gapping. Searching this forum for advice on that was not helpful since different people have different mods and should have a different gap. As for my car, as well as yours, the service manual specifies .039~.043 which means just throwing in new plugs assuming they are gapped is dumb, and unfair to people who do assume they're pre-gapped.

I have had experience with this in my 2nd Gen Eclipse. I bought iridium instead of the normal platimums one time and it didn't run right, turns out that was the same issue you're talking about. The box says "pre-gapped" but the gap was a bit too much so I had to smash them down then gap them myself. That car ran great. So I've always researched for any car since then.

As I was saying about my current 3rd Gen, the NGK's are gapped at .044, all but one type, which is the one I bought (so that the gap isn't too big, it's easier to gap it yourself if it is too small) It is Part 7092 which I bought here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...rk-Plug/2003-Mitsubishi-Eclipse/_/N-jkll5Z8gctd?itemIdentifier=505373_0_0_89792
since when I gave that part # to them, they said that one was OEM anyway so no need in spending quadruple on some iridiums.

-----------------------------------

It must have already been ruined, and cleaning it wasn't actually my idea, he said that if it improved the idle that I will still have to replace it.


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So to rant, they should not sell spark plugs which gap is too big, and they should not sell MAF Cleaner as well.

Actually the way it works is the more horsepower your car has, the shorter the gap has to be. I'm pretty sure that for a Eclipse GTS 210 HP the plug gap is between 0.028 to 0.032 which means that the tip of the spark plug on the left side begins at 0.028 and ends at 0.032.

I wouldn't recommend you following the owner's manual for that. Just check the hood of your car and it will say so on the passenger side. Unless you changed your hood for another one, it should tell you as soon as you open the hood right above the front right hood strut close to the right side view mirror under the hood.

I've ran between 0.028 to 0.032 with no problems :agreed: and I'm not getting any misfire codes.
 
Ah... I got the NGK 7090's recently and they are pre-gapped at .44 :-( EDIT: I checked the label under the hood, and it indeed says .039 to 0.43, so 44 is simply too big. Curious that it was the most commonly offered gap size from Rock Auto for this model of car.

Give yourself a second to realize what you just said...

.039 to .43

There is a difference between .043 and .43, .043 < .43

I'm guessing you meant they are pre gapped at .044 too and not .44
 
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