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Suspension discussion thread

2.8K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  chavezeclipse  
#1 ·
Just throwing this idea out there. There's performance discussion but if you actually want to know what does what on your car, it's all very convoluted and spread through endless threads.

I got this Idea when I replaced my clutch, taking off the front part of my D3 chassis stiffening kit as well as the Megan front tie bar and have yet to put them back on. Noticed absolutely no difference in driving however I'm driving like a normal person with the car until the clutch is broken in.

Suspension components installed presently and without the upper said parts:
tein ss
intrax front and rear sway bars
rear lower rite bar
rear dc sport strut bar
235/40/18 geforce sports
2 mid and 2 rear chassis stiffening bars from D3

But where I'm coming from is that after coil overs and sway bars, I'm not sure how much else the other stuff does. The DC rear strut bar looks mean and all. Anyway. Sea trials sorta soon. 500 mile total break in. Please chime in with ideas/comments/suggestions/opinions/questions.

And while we're here, I've never seen anything on how to drive a front wheel drive car. I've seen multiple threads on how to launch a car. I don't see how that's so hard...
 
#3 ·
Well the d3 parts are crap I've bent mine from racing. I noticed you never mention suspension bushings. Are your coilovers corner balanced? That's another thing to do. There's plenty online articles of how to drive a fwd and how to properly set the car up. That's what I use for my research.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have coilovers for springs and struts. tein ss.

I don't see how you can bend the D3 kit unless you're bottoming out. Or maybe my stock bushings allow for enough flex so that it does not bend. Which part did you bend? My front section is slightly bent from bottoming out.

I was honestly avoiding poly bushings because my car is ridiculously stiff as is.
 
#7 ·
Rear shock tower brace made a difference for me, I believe, as much as my butt / brain could tell cornering. I know for a fact I could see it though, when I jacked up one of the rear corners of the car after the brace installation it would lift the corresponding front wheel off the ground a hell of a lot sooner.

Was always skeptical of the chassis kits. We have (or in some of our cases had) a car that's pretty beefy underneath and IMO it'd take actual track time to get to a point where that incremental improvement might be felt.
 
#9 ·
Poly bushings are 100% the best possible upgrade for this platform! If you want to autocross and all that shit you HAVE to get poly bushings. Out of all of the suspension upgrades I have poly bushings were easily the most dramatic. I literally installed the right rear side of poly bushings and just from that one side I could tell the difference!
 
#10 ·
I think the most stress my d3 has had on it is getting in and out of driveways because my rear tire usually come off the ground. Or jacking from the car up from a corner, and the other corner comes off. Those two tweak the body more than anything else.

I've taken hard corners. I don't really think the speed matters so much as the force involved. I'm not a physicist, but a function of how fast you're going, how much your car weighs and the degree of the angle of the turn. Of course this force can only transfer to the car if the tires are sticky enough.

I've got this off ramp I really like. I've been slowly going faster and faster on it because it's not something you can afford to mess up on. My tires, when new, squeal pretty good at 92 and I feel that's about my top speed for that turn. Where this is going is I don't see how you can bend the d3 kit. From where the mounting points are, I just can't fathom how it can flex to bend. Or maybe my wheels have less travel than yours?
 
#11 ·
Another interesting topic. When I have my coilovers tightened as much as they go, it's far easier to get the rear end to slide out. It's almost as if there's less traction. It it however very easily controlled and forgiving, when trying to, the rear end slides more easily.

This is on flat ground. It's not going over bumps, so no traction loss due to that.
 
#12 · (Edited)
What you need is a coilover with seperate bump and rebound. If possible, seperate fast and slow bump and rebound.

Fast bump is for actual bumps, slow is for weight transfer. Best would be to turn up the slow bump and leave the fast bump conservative. Could go over bumps OK and still have the slow bump nearly locked out (completely can damage the valve depending on the coilover). KWs have seperate bump and rebound but the bump settings only effect slow bump. Fast bump is set by the factory. I think there is a little cross talk so changing slow bump still effects fast bump some. Someone like Meuller could probably set the fast bump more aggressive (requiring more aggressive springs so no over damped). For what it is worth, Tire rack is offering a 250$ rebate on KWs right now.

Also could go with a stiffer rear sway or one that had adjustments (something I wish the ST bar had).
 
#15 ·
hey guys

i've had my car for like two yrs, and now is that i decided to hook it up silver 2000 gt i hardly use the car cause i have a work truck but so far i have done injen cold air, full tune up, music indash nav, front lip fresh paint all around strut bars up an lower, links, konig runaway wheels well the car looks good but feels crapy so i wanted to know what u guys thought about ksport coilovers?
 
#16 ·
i've had my car for like two yrs, and now is that i decided to hook it up silver 2000 gt i hardly use the car cause i have a work truck but so far i have done injen cold air, full tune up, music indash nav, front lip fresh paint all around strut bars up an lower, links, konig runaway wheels well the car looks good but feels crapy so i wanted to know what u guys thought about ksport coilovers?
I have them, they look and fell just like rebadged D2's. They're good and I recommend them but I will be going with BC's or Megan's next just off of reviews
 
#19 ·
i wanted to bump this thread as it has a perfect name for my question. after reading this:

http://www.club3g.com/forum/wheels-...els-tires-brakes-suspension/73094-looking-spring-rates-prokit-vs-sportline.html

it looks like the tein htechs have less drop and slightly higher spring rates than my current prokit. seeing as that is exactly what i would like, i was wondering if anyone has ever made the switch to confirm that they are stiffer. especially with the rears as i do not like how mine ride now.