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Need help with settings when shooting star trails.

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Anus said:
Here, this was 18 minutes done in Sedona.
http://myc3g.com/photos/Sedona_09_1D-629WS.jpg

I linked it because it's set up for my widescreen background so it's kind of big.

Anyway, Primula got you started but here are a couple more things.

1) the wider the lens (example: an 18mm vs a 200mm) the longer the exposure needed.
2) make sure the in camera noise reduction is turned OFF.
3) read your manual. Sounds like you're still not 100% familiar with the controls on the camera.
4) you will need a stable tripod and the cable release. you can do it with several 30 second images but it's easier to just do one long one.
5) set the ISO to 100, and the Ap to around f8
6) here are a couple cable releases. one is just a simple cable release, one is a "smart" release that you can also program to do other things like time laps photography. they have a little slide cover that goes over the button and holds it down. You will need to have the camera set to BULB rather than a timed shutter speed. BULB means that the shutter stays open as long as the button is held down. This also means it's much more draining on the battery so make sure it's got a full charge.

Canon Remote Switch RS-80N3 2476A001 - B&H Photo Video
Canon Timer Remote Controller TC-80N3 2477A002 - B&H Photo Video

Oh, and you're probably going to need upwards of an hour exposure to get what you want.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, I was wondering what that the bulb meant after i go past 30 seconds. I'd like to get the smart timer, but does the other cheaper one do pretty much the same thing? I'd rather get the nice one in the first place than waste around $50 something dollars then get another one.
 
#23 ·
martin m said:
Thanks for the info, I was wondering what that the bulb meant after i go past 30 seconds. I'd like to get the smart timer, but does the other cheaper one do pretty much the same thing? I'd rather get the nice one in the first place than waste around $50 something dollars then get another one.
Click to expand...
the cheaper one that I posted is JUST a remote. you can't program it to do anything.

The cheaper one in that ebay link says that it can be programmed. It's up to you if you want to give it a try. I know people that have bought off ebay and had great results and others that had horrible results.

But yes, the smart move would be just to go all the way on the first purchase. I was dumb and bought the cheap one, and then 6 months later decided that I wanted the programmable one. :lol:
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I found this and messed around with it hooked up to the camera, I think it works exactly like the ones above. I just put it to the bulb mode and pressed and held the little button and when I released the button the shutter released so I'm guessing it's like the ones above. I'm gonna see where I get using it tonight, I also might take it out and shoot some traffic to get that streaming light effect again, last time wasn't so good :lol:
Image
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Tonight I messed around with long exposures and traffic. This is the 2nd time I've done this and the first time looked like complete shit so I'm pretty happy the way these turned out.
Image

Image

Image
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Well this time it seems like i'm getting somewhere.

This picture is a 15 minute exposure at 100 ISO and f/2.8
Image


This picture is a 30 minute exposure at 100 ISO and f/3.5
Image


I've gotta mess around with it a little more to get the sky darker when taking the picture. I edited both of those in aperture to make it a little darker.
 
#30 ·
Getting much better.. you've seemed to figure out that 30 seconds is enough time to capture anything if you want to show movement of stars. 30 seconds will do fine for traffic, etc.

The 15 and 30 minute shots look much better.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
HIJACKER said:
Getting much better.. you've seemed to figure out that 30 seconds is enough time to capture anything if you want to show movement of stars. 30 seconds will do fine for traffic, etc.

The 15 and 30 minute shots look much better.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I need to find a nice foreground for a picture of the stars now and I think move the f/stop higher than 3.5 to make it darker when shooting a 30 minute exposure right?
 
#32 ·
yes, try f8 and then go from there. Things are looking MUCH better. And I like that third shot of the traffic. You kind of have to do that from above so you can see the traffic in both directions.

Keep it up.
 
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