You should check the forums here: evolutionm.net . Many Evo's have done the 4G64 swap, and probably have discussed the details more so than on here. But you could always search and see what you get.

 

I've posted over there and looked for info too, just wanted to gather as much info as possible on this board, since I got an eclipse!

It's not actually as common as you might think, most people to 2.3L or take our crankshaft and use their block, the 2.4L builds aren't that common.

 

A good solid setup for both track and streetablity are the Eagle rods w/ Wiseco pistons. RRS has pistons spec'd for a 4G64 block and evo head that they use all the time on customer builds. The standard set that they use puts the compression ratio around 8.8:1. With a thick head gasket you drop about .3-.5 point.

You can however, request lower compression and they will custom order them for you. Basically what wiseco does is machine the dish down deeper, which lowers the compression.
I custom ordered mine at 8:1 and used a thick cometic head gasket to drop it down a litttle bit more. This is the best way to go if you plan on running a lot of boost on pump gas. Expect to wait about two-three months to have them made.

As far as off the shelf pistons for the setup you are trying to build; Many people have tried to do it, and it never works out quite right. IMO this is because Wiseco(nor any other piston manufs) does not have an off the shelf piston, that is made for a 4G64 with an EVO head. Its best to order them from someone who knows what they are doing, or better yet, have them build the entire long block, so you know its done right the first time.

 

I can't afford a built block, and not build it myself. That would be a total waste of money. could you put up some links to where I might find these pistons. I don't really wanna lower my compression ratio lower than 8.8:1, if there are pistons out there that will yield that it would be perfect for my goals.

If a shop is doing that on customer builds, they have to be good, I was just slightly worried about how the head would change compression and getting the right height.

I only plan on 20-30psi, stock evos are 20. I have to buy a bigger turbo, should have just aimed higher from the start.

 

Well, doing something like this yourself when you have never done it before, makes the chances for failure, about 98%, on a good day. So the end result is that having a professional shop do it to begin with will end up costing you far less money.

And just to iterate what I already said. For a daily driven, and occasionally tracked car, that is run on primarly pump fuel, you want about 8:1 compression. The engine will be much more forgiving, ping much less, and therefore last a lot longer.

ALso, evos peak at about 19psi. They taper quite a bit though. THey also run terrible tunes out of the box. SOmewhere around 10:1 afr and 4° of timing at max boost.

For comparison, At the close of my last setup, with 91 octane fuel I was running 22psi(solid to 7200rpm redline) with an 11.5:1 afr, and 15° timing advance, with no knock.

 

Zee had the off the shelf pistons I believe and ended up sending them back to have the valve reliefs cut in. 4g64 pistons are around $800 compared to around $450 for the 4g63's Also I dunno what turbo your using but with a 4g64 and evo8 turbo you won't be running 20lbs unless you get a new wastegate actuator even with a boost controller the wastgate starts leaking at higher boost from the actator not being strong enough. 20lbs on the 2.4 is not the same as 20lbs on the 4g63.

 

Check this out for the leak fix... it's what I plan on getting when I start my engine build...

 

I've built an engine before, it just takes care for details, and torque specs, if it's safe to run 15psi, on stock 9:1 compression, what is the point to lower the power just for higher psi numbers?

do I use 4G64 or 4G63 eagle rods?

and what are the part numbers for pistons that fit and do 8.8ish compression?
and will I need to get those grooved for the valves or will they fit off the shelf?

 

is RRS, Road Race Service, the engine building part of Road Race Engineering?

 

2G, 7 bolt rods work. http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/74651-2g-7bolt-rods-do-they-fit.html

 

I'm looking through the eagle catalog, and wiseco catalog, does anyknow know which two magic part numbers will yeild a compression ratio between 8-9. RRS told me they'd sell me the parts but they didn't give me the numbers.

 

they told me "to give them a credit card number and I'll see the part numbers when they arrive"

 

:lol:

 

Damn dude, you're kilin the EVOM fourms... like creating 10 threads in one hour.. lol oh well

 

Do some research on the thrust bearing setup ahead of time.

 

what about adding oil squirters to the 2.4L block? any insight on that?

 

Waste of time.

 

Ive seen pistyons for 4g64 block and 4g63 head. ON ebay JE pistons.

 

Do you actually race your car?

I would take the view of the manufacturer, who designs shit to last a long time..... instead of race cars that are only driven during special events...

 

Do I race my car? Well lets just say I don't own an 11 second car for nothing. You guys crack me up though. If you'd like I can drive up and give you a ride in the car your like 30-45 mins away it looks like. Maybe seeing is believing?

 

In answer to your question, Awalp... There's plenty of insight, but it all boils down to what exactly your car will be for. Oil squiters (along with almost EVERY OTHER CAR PART ON THE MARKET) has both positives and negatives.

I would do it if I was spending the money on a built block...but that's me.

 

well, I plan on this being a fair weather car, but also a drag car.

 

hmm, I read the article about the oil squirters, Magnus Motorsports
the thing is those are 4G63 blocks, not 4G64 blocks.
how would oil squirters be installed in a 4G64 block?

 

THe block gets drilled and tapped.
Then one way check valves and oil jets are installed.

 

umm... the same way?

 

I would love to take a look at your setup. I guess I would probably still have the oil squirters installed if I was paying for a build, but if it works without it, cool. I was thinking that the oil helped for higher reving situations, like to cool the ring down, but maby not...

 

where do you have that done? is there a kit available for 4G64?
I'm assuming the block is slightly different since it doesn't even have them.
I always thought oil squirters were required for high revving, at least in hondas (only engines I've built yet).
Them being a bad thing is news to me.