It depends on some factors. Is it 2000 watts rms? Or is that max wattage at 2 ohms. How many outputs is it? And if it's more than 1 is that 2000 watts total for all outputs?

Next what ohm are your subs because that will effect the power draw of the amp.

In my case I have an amp that says 1800 watts rms with 2 outputs, but broken down it looks like this. Each output gives 900 rms at 2 ohms = 1800. My subs have 4 ohm resistance and at 4 ohm my amp puts out 500 watts rms. So in reality my amp is only pulling 1000 watts plus 300 watts for my 4 channel. I'm running a newer stock alternator with the big 3 upgrade without any electrical issues, all on 0 ga wire.

 

it is a 2 channel 2000 watt max amp, so 1000 watts per channel. it should be around 1000 watts rms hopefully, it isnt a top of the line amp but its name is getting more popular for its price range and how well it actually preforms. my subs are 4 ohm stable

 

4 gauge cannot supply 2000watts rms
WIRE

at best your looking at 13v x 125amps=1625watts which is before figuring amp efficiency which class D is at most 85%

if its 2000 watts max, your prob around 1000rms if your lucky and you should be fine w/ 4 gauge and stock alt. A nice batt up front would be a good idea also but prob not needed

I'm running a real 2000 rms(using 2 gauge) and the alt is not enough with my single 75AH batt(so I'm not getting all 2000rms), if I play at idle for just a bit my batt is well drained

I really need an extra batt and 200amp alt, which I'm working on soon

 

if its 2000 watts max, your prob around 1000rms if your lucky

^this


if the amp only says that it outputs 2000w max that means that it iwas a very cheap amp, and you are probably closer to 250-500w rms....

 

lol "the reviews looked good"

reminds me of this comic:

in the last couple years, there is a emerging standard for car electronic power ratings-- CEA certification. this is the only universal standard for power ratings. up until that point, the makers can and do, all sorts of tricks to rate their electronics at higher power numbers then realistic--all to boost the bottom line. so you were never comparing apples-to-apples across different manufacturers..

i seriously doubt that amp is outputting any more then 250 w rms per channel, and, just like the reviewers, the false, flashy marketing grabbed you enough to buy it..

so if you want to be sure that your getting what you paid for, look only at amps with CEA power certification. they are usually more expensive, but well worth the extra cost.

 

A good idea when running a strong amplifier is to hook up a capacitor. It will help absorb heavy power draws when the sub is hitting at its hardest. It will lighten the load on your electrical system, protecting your battery, alternator, and keeping your lights from dimming when the sub hits. It also will deliver more power to the amp when it needs it most, giving a crisper sound to your system.

 

A cap is at best a temporary fix. However this amp will not draw enough power to worry about. But if you feel like there is a problem do it right and go with the big 3 upgrade. A cap is a waste of money as it does very little.

 

A cap will cause more problems than it solves. What happens when the cap runs out of juice? Then you have both the amp AND the cap sucking power from the alternator. If you're running appropriate wiring from your alternator to your battery, you should have no problems at all, and have no need for a cap.

 

Yup this too :yesway:

 

like said that amp doesnt draw enough power to kill your car unless your batt/alt is not working propperly

 

fyi-- a cap will run out of juice after 1 large BUMP. then it can take a long time for it to recharge(think hours). i have never heard of anyone bump their system like that.

and evidence:
Why you don't need a capacitor - Realm of Excursion


and another note: all the documentation i have found disproves caps usefulness from a power standpoint. i am very interested in seeing any evidence that they could help a sound system from a sound quality standpoint.