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driver's side door lock

21K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  buddd  
#1 ·
ok my driver's side door lock stopped working, doesnt work through the remote or the button inside the car, but when i lock it manually with a key or on the inside is locks, could the motor go, is this common?
 
#7 ·
check yer fuses first. I think both locks are on the same fuse though. I could be wrong though. yer owner's manual's fuses section will answer that one. if it checks out, then it's most likely the switch itself. try swapping the passenger side switch for the driver's side switch and see what happens. if all a sudden the bad one works again, there's yer problem. try a boneyard or autoparts store first before hitting the dealer up. it doesn't cost much, but you'd probably save a buck or 2 if you can find it elsewhere besides the dealer.

how to remove the door lock switch.

tools needed:
1 thin flathead screwdriver
1 small rag, the thinner the better
1 phillips head screwdriver

directions:

1 - make sure the car is off! not required, but it doesn't hurt to pull the fuse for the lock or disconnect the battery just to be safe. that's up to you if you wanna do that or not.

2 - wrap the rag around the tip of the flathead screwdriver and insert it into the front part of the doorlock/power morror/power window assembly on your door panel. you might need to open the door if the screwdriver is too long.

3 - push the whole assembly torwards the rear of the car. if this is the first time, it's gonna fight you quite a bit. be careful not to damage the surrounding surfaces with the screwdriver when you do this (is why the rag is wrapped around it).

4 - once it has been pushed backwards, lift the front up and out, followed by pulling it forward again to release the rear end as well.

5 - flip it over and find the tabs that go into the slots on the plug harnesses. pulling the slots away from the tabs lets you unplug the harnesses. if you can't do it by hand, use the flathead screwdriver here. unplug them all for easier access. don't worry about what goes where. they're all different colors, sizes, and will only go back on one way. just don't drop the wire harnesses into the door panel....

6 - flip the assembly over and unfasten the 2 phillips head screws that hold the lock unit to the assembly.

for re-assembly, just reverse the order. do note two things -
A - the power mirror control (if applies) just snaps into place from the top. if it pops up during reassembly, just push it back down until it snaps back into place.
B - putting the entire assembly back into the door panel might be a bit tricky. come in as low and flat as possible, rear end of the assembly first. it might be possible that you'll need the screw driver again to gently push the front tab down into the hole. I had to the first time I did. just give it a gentle, yet firm tap is all while pushing it down, and torwards the rear of the vehicle. once it gets to a certain spot, it'll simpley go down into the hole in the door panel. if it fights you a bit pushing the assembly back forward and into the proper spot, use the screw driver from the rear and gentle tap it forward. be carefull here cuz them tabs on the rear are just plastic. the fronts are metal.

hope that helps....
 
#8 ·
cinek10 said:
how much do you think a new actuator is goin to run me?
About a hundred bucks, plus or minus a few. I think that Cleve had a good idea there as well, and its definately worth a try. I had a switch go bad on me when some paintless dent repair guy cracked it. The lock wouldn't open from the door lock switch, but it'd work with the remote. Still, it could be a bad switch, which would be a lot cheaper than a bad actuator.
 
#10 ·
cinek10 said:
yea but it's not the switch, cuz it work for the passanger door..
do you think i can get one of the actuators from best buy, they have then for like 20$
No. You need to get the OEM part from Mitsubishi. It's a specific part that will line up with the existing connecting rod that works the lock.

re: the switch, did you try swapping the passenger's side switch to the driver's side switch like cleve suggested to do a test? Each door has its own switch.
 
#11 ·
Have you done any modifications to your locks, like adding an aftermarket alarm or anything?

Did it just stop working out of no where?

Let me get this straight though, you said drivers door lock switch doesnt work, but the passenger side does. So... When you hit lock or unlock on the drivers side, NO LOCKS operate correct?
 
#15 ·
any word on this as well? i have the same problem. my driver side door lock is unlocking itself. it won't stay lock even the car is running. when i lock the door using the driver side lock key, the pasenger lock OK while the driver side door automatically unlock itself. it will only stay lock if i use my key to lock it from the outside. help please.
 
#18 · (Edited)
2009 Eclipse base here. Power locks work by key fob and by inside car lock buttons.

Key in drivers door turns but does not lock or unlock the door (no key hole for passenger side door).
In the past using the key to unlock the door also triggered the car alarm. No alarm no when trying the key in door either.

What is the problem/fix?

Thx
 
#19 ·
2009 Eclipse base here. Power locks work by key fob and by inside car lock buttons.

Key in drivers door turns but does not lock or unlock the door (no key hole for passenger side door).
In the past using the key to unlock the door also triggered the car alarm. No alarm no when trying the key in door either.

What is the problem/fix?

Thx
Thiss is 3g forum which rins from 2000-2005. You'll have better luck on a 4g forum.