NGK BKR8EIX. i think i just ordered these last week for my spring upgrade package. i'll let you know how they run when they get here. BTW dont get fooled into thinking heat range #'s are the same across the board. A 6 for NGK isnt the same as a 6 for Denso. They do very

generally out of a tuners perspective, go 1 heat range colder per 100hp you are making over stock heat range. (6G72 is a 6 on the NGK scale)

 

NGK BKR8EIX. i think i just ordered these last week for my spring upgrade package. i'll let you know how they run when they get here. BTW dont get fooled into thinking heat range #'s are the same across the board. A 6 for NGK isnt the same as a 6 for Denso. They do very

generally out of a tuners perspective, go 1 heat range colder per 100hp you are making over stock heat range. (6G72 is a 6 on the NGK scale)

Same plugs I am ordering. Post up how they are working later on. :yesway:

 

BTT

 

So the "-11" part means its pregapped to 0.040, right?

 

So the "-11" part means its pregapped to 0.040, right?

Not really sure man... I know all the NGK plugs are pre-gapped to .044 .

 

-11 means 1.1milimeter or .043 inch

 

-11 means 1.1milimeter or .043 inch

Cool, thanks for the info.

 

i understand how most all mods work and the relevance and physics that make them increase power but i dont quite understand high performance spark plugs, are they basicly only needed for FI cars that are runnning alot of pressure and rapid combustion or are they actually an add-on to increase power output in combustion for N/a or FI?

ps: ebay has unknown brand sparks for like 30$
and magnecores run 120+$ both for racing performance, just like anything else, you get what u pay for or are sparks pretty basic and any high durability ones going to get the job done the same?

thanks

 

For F/I you need a colder plug. A colder plug has less insulation around the tip, therefore more heat can be drawn away from the spark plug tip and into the coolant. Going F/I creates more heat, so the spark plug is more likely to start glowing red hot. If a spark plug glows red hot, then it can pre-ignight the air and fuel mixture just after the intake valve closes. This is very bad because the piston will be trying to compress an expanding fire ball. This expanding fire ball blows the boundary gas layer off of the top of the piston. The boundary gas layer usually protects the piston from absorbing as much of the heat from the combustion process. Since the boundary gas layer is gone the aluminum piston heats up quickly and will either get a hole burnt in the top of it or expand so much that it will seize in the cylinder bore.

The trick is to find a spark plug with the correct tempurature range for your application, if you go too cold, then the spark plug will not get hot enough to self clean and will foul out in short order. If you go too hot then boom game over.

 

:shock: ohh ok thanks

 

yes -11 means it is gap at .044. Eclipse GT's stock heat range is 6, which would be a NGK-BKR6EIX-11.

I talked to a NGK Tech on the phone and he gave me the below NGK plug # to use in my 2001 Eclipse GT boosting 6 to 8PSI.

NGK-BKR7EIX

This plug is 1 step colder and has a gap of .032. He also told me to gap it out to .035 to .036.

Hope this helps

 

Question

Will this be a good add with my stock engine?NGK Bkr7eix

 

NGK-BKR6EIX-11 or NGK-BKR5EIX-11

ok i am looking to do a tune up soon so i figured i would search around here to find out which plugs are best. WTF!!! im getting conflicting answers everywhere! help the newb!!!!!

03 gts eclipse not F/I, yet.....

some ppl here say the the NGK-BKR5EIX-11 is what we are supposed to be using, along with the ngk site if you look it up...

but you guys are saying to use the NGK-BKR6EIX-11

Whos right whos wrong???

now i do understand you are all closing your gaps down to .32 and less for F/I and that is the gap on the hood.... but should i leave them gapped at .44 or close them carefully?

and will this 5/6 heat zone make all that much difference??


thank you in advance, nick

 

I will clear this up once and for all[/U. First off, we have an internal coil. You have six spark plug wires. If you're too dumb to look under your hood and see that I will ream you a new one if you tell someone otherwise.

Here is your ignition service run down for cars maintained APPROPRIATELY:

Plugs- 60k
The only plug you should ever run with anything short of 300 at the crank, which means you are on the stock ignition system
NGK part#IFR5E11 Laser Iridium. They are OEM, they are the highest quality can get meaning you will get 60k out of them so long as you're cap, rotor and wires are healthy. They're 17$ each at the parts store, they're $9 minus at less a 5%discount on Rock Auto.

Cap and rotor: 120k
There part numbers have moved around a little bit, Both Boshe and YEC are OEM. Either is a suitable replacement, also very cheap off Rock Auto.

Spark plugs wires: 100-120k (120) if maitained well and parked in a garage, there things age like crazy being parked outside.
Unless you want black get NGK. Otherwise Bosche standard is fine if you're that cheap. The NGK's however are the same price as OEM ~ 40$ is cheap, so why skimp?

A healthy ignition system nets power, fuel mileage and long term reliability. With everything off rock auto you aren't looking at 150$ and an afternoon of labor if you can read a set of directions. I personally replace all of these every 60k along with o2 sensors every 120k. I don't have a car I maintain with a spec of lifter tick or one that gets less that advertised MPG's.

 

ok but?

ok not to be a pain in the ass,
but why can i use the NGK-BKR5EIX-11 iridium IX,
seems like a much better plug than the NGK part#IFR5E11 Laser Iridium

what does hp and the oem ignition system have to do with it?

last question you didnt address is plug gap? leave em at .44 or change the gap on plugs that say do not gap???

 

ps no one debated that our 6 cyl eclipses have more or less than six wires, i was asking about heat zones on the plug heat zone 5,6,7,ect

 

The was a generic response, not geared at you specifically.

Our ignition systems are meant to run on step 6 NGK laser iridums. If you do a quick search here you will find all sorts of threads about misfire after putting in non-oem plugs. That said, take these guidelines simply a guidelines for proper maintenance. If you think you're smarter then (seriously, with all due respect) or want to put in what you consider "better" plugs by all means. We can get away with plenty, but I and most of the people I work with want to drive cars that act like they just came off the show room floor and with Rock Auto availability that is cheaper than one dealership timing belt to do over the top and do EVERYTHING.

 

well thank you,
that does answer my question, the iridium ix can cause problem then, and our heat zone is 6....

but the IFR****5******E11 Laser Iridium is a heat zone 5 yes no? and should we or should we not change the gap from .44 to .32????

and the ngk site say that the laser platniums are the oe? could they be wrong?

 

My last 2 cents.....

ok silvertune, you are a wise master, but so am i....

but i have come to a new conclusion....

after hours of research across the web and at rock auto.... it appears that the gts and gt actually take different plugs with different gap tolerances....

everything you said above is 100% correct, for the gt, but if you look closely, the correct NGK for the GTS is

NGK Part # 6507 More Info Laser Iridium

not the

NGK Part # 7994 More Info {#IFR5E11}.....

these are only for GT

AND! the 6507s come gapped at .032
the 7994s at .44

I personally feel more comfortable buy iridium plugs gapped at the correct setting, since your really not supposed to gap them cold...





Lastly the iridium plugs are an uprade to the oem




NGK Part # 7092 More Info {#BKR6EGP} G-Power One of our most popular parts .032; Spyder GTS; GTS Model
or
BOSCH Part # 4301 More Info PLATINUM Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset; Original Equipment is Platinum

&

NGK Part # 7090 More Info {#BKR5EGP} G-Power One of our most popular parts .044; Spyder GT; GT Model
or
BOSCH Part # 4418 More Info PLATINUM Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset; Original Equipment is Platinum

 

I did not realize you have the GTS. I should've included that info, but you must pardon me. I am very, very sick tonight and so it slipped my mind.

 

So I'm looking to return to stock plugs, because fool I was thought I knew what I was doing. I understand now, and I'm getting misfire codes probably due to some preignition.

I put a 5 heat range plug in my NA engine, I should return to 6 for stock is what I'm understanding.

 

NOPE, if you have the GT then you should be gapped at 044 in the 5 heat range....

i have a GTS which is gapped at 032 in the 6 heat range, (prob due to the higher compression ratio... in the GTS)

although, everone says not to gap these iridium plugs but you HAVE to... mine came ranging from 022-050 that could be your problem?

 

i would check the plug gap, and go over the vacuum lines with some carb cleaner spray, they may look good, but after removal and reinstall they may have cracked some where you didnt see, are you sure they are on in the exact same order as before, really sounds like a vacuum leak, how many mile you have? hate to say it, but could be distrubtor itself, about 600 beans...

 

OK, just pulled the plugs in front and had a quick look. I do actually have 6's in there, so I need a step hotter if you/stock recommends 5's. Also, it looks like the electrode may have worn slightly, increasing the gap. Regardless of how it happened, looks like the gap might be too big. I will have to get a gap checker (thought I had one).

And there's brown jagged coloring on the ceramic, would this mean it's occasionally jumping to the block?

EDIT: Other than that, they look clean, no fouling. I did notice a bit of moisture on the spark plug boots, I feel like this could be a cause of jump-to-block.

 

yes replace with heat zone 5 and gap correctly or you will be pulling that plenum off a 3rd time, diagnose from there...

 

I know this is an old thread, but it seems to be the best one regarding spark plug information. Current wisdom seems to be GT vs GTS on which spark plug to pick, but in my research I found that the GT Spyder came without MVIM (VIC) for a few years and then WITH MVIM (VIC) for a few years.

From Wikipedia: "Eclipse GT Spyder: 2000-2002: convertible model equipped with a 200 hp (149 kW) 3.0 L 24-valve SOHC Mitsubishi 6G72 engine. 2003-2005: convertible FWD model equipped with a 210 hp (157 kW) 3.0 L 24-valve SOHC Mitsubishi 6G72 engine with MVIM"

From Service Manual:
MAKER | 2.4L ENGINE | 3.0L ENGINE without VIC | 3.0L ENGINE with VIC
NGK | BKR5E-11 | PFR5G-11 | IFR6B
DENSO | K16PR-U11 | PK16PR11 | SK20PR-B8
CHAMPION | RC10YC4 | RC10PYP4 | -

<2.4L Engine, 3.0L Engine − without VIC>
1.0 − 1.1 mm (0.039 − 0.043 inch)
<3.0L Engine − with VIC>
0.7 − 0.8 mm (0.039 − 0.043 inch) (Straight from manual, but obviously these numbers should be 0.027 - 0.032 inch)

With this information, I would say the GT Spyder between 2003-2005 is the exception to the GT vs GTS spark plug rule, requiring heat range 6 (in NGK) and gap of 0.7-0.8mm, just like a GTS.

UPDATE: I ended up ordering the "NGK 2687 FR6EI Laser Iridium Spark Plug" from RockAuto.com (for my 2004 Spyder GT) since they were having a sale. 6 Iridium plugs, heat level 6, gapped at 0.032", and NGK says it'll last 100k miles vs the Iridium IX versions lasting 50k. In a side-by-side comparison on NGK's website, all information is exactly the same as the plug recommended by Service Manual: IFR6B.

 

Correct...although you have a Spyder GT, it has the GTS engine, which has a different design intake plenum and the MVIM system with the round cylinder shaped valve mounted to the top middle part of the intake. So even though you have the GT trim level, you have to order engine AND transmission/clutch parts for the GTS.
Most chain autoparts stores are not aware of this distinction between the GT and GTS engine and will sell you the wrong part. However, RockAuto.com has their shit mostly together and have a mostly accurate parts database.
Also, If you order parts using the VIN number instead, its less likely you'll get the wrong part.
BTW, when I first got my 2005 Spyder GT, I didn't know I had the GTS engine until I joined this forum. 🤪