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maybe its not gapped correctly thats why i said to get new plugs to make sure.. Those plugs look ok. Maybe that injector is not not in synch... Anyway new plugs will eliminate or try to eliminate the plugs as the problem.. There is a dude on evom that figured out how to tell what cylinder is knocking with some code he wrote so if nothing improves ur issue then maybe that will tell u whats going on also..
 
Discussion starter · #162 ·
maybe its not gapped correctly thats why i said to get new plugs to make sure.. Those plugs look ok. Maybe that injector is not not in synch... Anyway new plugs will eliminate or try to eliminate the plugs as the problem.. There is a dude on evom that figured out how to tell what cylinder is knocking with some code he wrote so if nothing improves ur issue then maybe that will tell u whats going on also..
I know for a fact it can't be the gap because I didn't touch the gap; it was pre-gapped at either .28 or .30. (the 7EIX's)

I'm thinking that it might be an injector wiring issue or a faulty injector. Going to have a mechanic do a voltage check across each one just to see...
 
Discussion starter · #163 ·
So... I decided to get my injectors flow tested to make sure everything is okay, as well as check the wiring on my injector clips because I know they weren't soldered together, which I was planning on doing.

I'm taking apart the electrical tape, and looking at the injector clips and how they're wired. When looking at the clip, with the metal piece facing upwards, I notice that the right wire is the power wire that goes to the RED wire.

This held true for THREE of the injector clips, the LAST clip, (the one all the way to the right of the motor when facing the car) was wired OPPOSITELY.

I thought... WOW. That would explain a whole hell of a lot of things.

My main concern is, I've been running the car like this for 2 years!!!! What kind of damage can I expect? I mean, if the car has been opening 3 of the injectors and closing the 4th one this whole time, what could happen?

I guess I'll have to get a compression test on that cylinder and hope for the best.

But yeah, I'm surprised as hell.
 
Discussion starter · #165 · (Edited)
really...? :scratch:

I thought that if you had them reversed, it would cause it to do opposite things, like open when its supposed to be closed and visa versa?

I thought I saw that in someone's turbo thread... maybe clouds?

Edit: Yeah it was clouds... http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/51458-clouds-turbo-project-7.html

He said that there is a positive and negative side for the clips.
 
there is a general way that we have all stuck to but im pretty sure he is right about wiring but you should keep it consistent either way.. We use the bigger wire for the red side and the smaller wire for the ground on the clips.. u would have seen a messed up AFR if your injector wasnt firing right...
 
Discussion starter · #167 ·
there is a general way that we have all stuck to but im pretty sure he is right about wiring but you should keep it consistent either way.. We use the bigger wire for the red side and the smaller wire for the ground on the clips.. u would have seen a messed up AFR if your injector wasnt firing right...
Yeah I'm going to switch it to the way the rest of them are just to be sure.

Going to get my injectors flow tested and cleaned just to be sure they're in working order.

We'll see what happens in the next week though... hopefully it'll get resolved soon with the new plugs, wires, and clean injectors and correct wiring.
 
Discussion starter · #168 ·
I got my injector results back from injector-rehab. Needless to say, they needed a good cleaning. 3 of them were only flowing at 408CCs, and the one was at 396CC. Yikes.

Now they're clean and flowing at 444CC! I'm just waiting to physically receive them and then put them on my car this weekend. Keep you guys posted.
 
Discussion starter · #171 ·
Update

This past weekend I tried to install my injectors, but the 2 bolts that mount the fuel rail to the block broke while I was trying to do it. Great.

So I went to the stealership and paid $23 dollars for 2 bolts, 1 insulator (7 dollars for that POS), and 2 other bolts that connect the feed line to the rail.

Hopefully will be getting it by Friday, but of course, on the weekend its supposed to rain! No luck whatsoever.

Oh well. Keep you guys posted.
 
Discussion starter · #176 ·
So I finally got the parts from mitsubishi, and I went to install everything tonight. I started the car up, then I started to smell fuel. Great. Turns out there is fuel coming out of where Tearstone's adapter bolts up, its slow, but its there.

I didn't even touch that part when I took off the rail. Leads me to believe fuel isn't getting somewhere it should be.

I had this weird thing happen while trying to install my injectors though. I lined everything up, but the fuel injectors wouldn't fully touch the block where the injectors tips are. (where they spray out of). I looked at the hole to the block, and there are these plastic pieces that seemed to prevent it from going in all the way. I took them out (4 of them) and it went in fine, but thats when I noticed the slow leak of fuel outside of Tearstone's adapter.

Are those pieces supposed to be in there? I don't recall if they came with the injectors after cleaning or not. And if so, are they supposed to push into the block so that the injectors can line up correctly?
 
Black o rings? Yeah, those insulators line the tips up into the manifold. Oil them up as well as the tips going into the fuel rail. Get em all lined up into the insulators then bolt the rail down. They shouldnt be obstucted. But without em, who knows. Youll prolly get fuel everywhere as soon as you crank it.
 
Discussion starter · #179 · (Edited)
Any updates? Im interested to see if this clears shit up for you
Hey guys.. sorry it's been awhile; been busy with random other shit.

So while my car is down, I decided to redo my vacuum lines and run it off the brake booster because the way I had it setup previously was retarded... lol.

Today I'm actually going to buy 1 other spark plug from advance auto(because when I was regapping one of them, I fcuked up the center copper piece somehow) and put them in my car. I gapped them at .28; previously my 7eix's were gapped at .30, so we'll see if that makes a difference.

If that doesn't work, I'll try to post the ROM and XML that I'm currently using and see if anyone can find something wrong with it.
 
Discussion starter · #180 ·
Ha, I don't know why I even bother to get my hopes up. Replaced spark plugs (gap at .28)and wires and I get knock while revving at 30+ counts still.

I'm thinking that maybe the Evo ecu I'm using is just to fucking sensitive with the knock sensor filters. I came across a DSM thread where 2nd gen eclipses were using the Evo Ecus as well and the guy was experiencing the same thing for no apparent reason. (Evo 8 Ecu In 2g Works!! - Page 18 - DSM Forums)

The only thing I don't get, is how EVERYONE else who uses an Evo ECU on this forum doesn't experience the same fucking shit I am.

I'll probably try switching ECU's again and use my stock 02' RS ecu and take it from there. Fuck this evo shit.
 
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