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vacc/bov question

4.3K views 49 replies 12 participants last post by  PharmEcis  
#1 ·
The other day i blew a clamp off by the bov. Since reinstalling the clamp and coupler ive noticed that my vacc is somewhere between 400-430 mm/hg on the greddy gauge. Ive also noticed that its not boosting as quick and in general doesnt feel quick anymore. One of the test that i did was plug the vacc line going to my bov. Instantly the vacc was exactly where it needs to be. 500-5040 mm/hg. In the process to i managed to break off the lower nipple on the bov. One thing ive never noticed before was how much that other nipple is sucking air in. Humm I think thats my prob. I think its sucking air in somehow and killing my vacc readings. I think hooked the vacc line back up to the bov and pluged the second nipple. My vacc then was 500mm/hg.

Is this possibly a bad BOV? By doing a few diff test like i have it seems like its BOV related. The bov isnt as loud as it use to be either. Now i never drove the car at any of these points either. This was all done at idle. Is my BOV causing my boost leak which is killing my vacc and also my boost since its creating a boost leak?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Some of the Greddy type S BOV knock-offs do. I have one because that is what GCT used to put into their turbo and SDS draw-thru kits. The two nipples work the BOV inversely. The Greddy RS also has the spot where the second nipple should be but it is only a access hole.

I think what Randy described indicates a bad BOV especially since he did the vacuum test. The BOV is leaking.

Here's the thread (start at my post #13): http://www.club3g.com/forum/gt-gts/67353-ripp-sds-hks-greddy-bov.html

And here's the BOV:

Image
 
#6 ·
Sounds like the BOV is leaking boost.

Just get yourself a real greddy type s.
 
#10 ·
Just get yourself a real greddy type s.
I think those originals are getting harder to come by. I've heard different stories on how Greddy didn't secure the patent on the type S so you have all the knock-offs. The RS and the type R are what their offer now.
 
#9 ·
I've got a Greddy RS waiting in the wings that I bought after I installed the knock-off one. I got to say it has been working well up to this point.
 
#12 ·
i had one of thoes pos bov the ebay $40 and it just stoped working and i love my new one hks ssqv $200 u can get the chrome one for $150 ]
That one is nice, but I believe Randy's setup needs a BOV that recirculates.
 
#22 ·
The only thing I don't like about forge BOV's is their tendency to leak at boost levels greater than 25 psi. Last year we had to scramble to replace a forge unit on the shop EVO before an event because we were stuck at around 480whp at 25 psi and we wanted to run about 30 psi w/ about 540whp for VIR as it's such a big power track.

Holy run on sentence. :lol:
 
#24 ·
We went to the strongest spring supplied w/ the kit (forge does include multiple springs) and it still leaked. I even shimmed the bastard.

Honestly, Tial makes the best BOV period.
 
#33 · (Edited)
HKS SSQV or a stock EVO 9 BOV which holds boost good up to about 23ish. Not many boosted V6's are going to go over 15 psi anyways. That being said, there are a few of us who are exceptions. ;)
 
#37 ·
Yes you have to have a flange welded onto your piping for it.
 
#38 ·
Never used that unit but I'm sure it's top notch. It also requires a flange to be welded on as it mounts via a V band.
 
#47 ·
Different flange. Honestly to buy a new one, it's better to buy the EVO one as they run about the same.