On the left side, there is a cover you need to loosen a few screws on to be able to take the cover off. It's really not that hard to take the VC off. most importantly, remember to not OVERTIGHTEN the bolts when you put it back on, it will bend EASY and leak worse.

 

Oh ok yeah the timing belt cover

 

pop it a couple time with a good rubber mallet.

 

You don't need to remove the timing belt cover to pull the valve cover off. Just take a 2x4 and place it near the base of the valve cover on that ridge where the bolts to through so the broad side makes a nice even impact when you hit the 2x4 with a rubber mallet or hammer. Just like taking a lower oil pan off

If you need me to take a picture to demonstrate what I'm talking about let me know.

 

Any chance someone could post a pic of this? I just used a rubber mallet and a 2x4 and my cover didn't budge. All I managed to do was dent the cover a tad bit. I tried banging the the mallet on the 2x4 with the 24 placed on the front/bottom, both sides, and even from the back/top.

I removed the 6 cover bolts (which I found were only HAND tightened.. I could still tighten them more with my hand....) front timing belt cover, both hoses, front spark plugs, and the throttle cable bolt. There is nothing else to remove! Does it help to start with warm/hot engine or what? The only other thing I can think of to try is to "pry" it off using a tiny screwdriver but obviously that will end with a bent cover that will no longer seal. HELP!!! Thanks in advance.

Also, when there is black "goop" on the spark plug tubes that is just old oil and means the tube seals need replacing, correct? Just trying to confirm that I don't need to put any goop on the tubes before reinserting them (there is very little goop). Thanks.

 

You're correct, you don't need to "remove" the timing belt cover, but it does help A LOT to loosen the first two bolts on it so you can pull it off to the left to give yourself some space to take the VC off.

 

I can't say that it really helps one way or another. I've never had any problems removing the valve cover it slips right out from underneath the timing belt cover.

 

Whats up man...been a while
Heres what i did...i got a piece of skinny wood slightly wider than the mouth of the oil cap hole, tied it with rope in the middle and tied the other side of the rope to a breaker bar. i put the untied end of the breaker bar agains the intake manifold, the piece of wood in the hole with each side of it touching the underside of the cover, pulled up, and it popped right off. Hope it works for you.

 

the piece of wood in the hole with each side of it touching the underside of the cover.

anyway to illustrate that part?

wassup Jeremy! thx for the tip but I just cant visualize how you did it. If there is no way to picture it I think I'm gonna have to take a real hammer to it and ruin that cover.

 

LOL, I hope you don't do that. He is saying to put the tied piece of wood inside the hole and pull up on it with a lever.

I hope I stated that in a more simple manner.

Good luck :wavey:

 

Sorry this is kinda off buy where did you get the seals for the tubes? I need to do this as well.

 

Got them from the dealer. About $2/ea. I think the valve cover gasket was about $9.

Steadly: I was worried that he meant put wood inside the oil cap... I don't wantto chance having shavings/splinters dropped down there. Maybe I can find something metal that will fit but I doubt it. I think if no one posts up some new ideas then I'm just going to wail on it with a hammer when I get home. My onl other idea is to attach a winch to the throttle cable bracket on top of the cover and try to "pull" it off that way.
:scared:

 

You guys have to put the edge of the 2x4 long ways along the bottom of the valve cover so it evenly disburses the energy of the blow throughout the entire valve cover. If you dented your valve cover, you are doing something wrong. I will get a pic for you guys though.

 

Thanks Tearstone! I actual did what you are describing (except the 2x4 wasn't ALL the way at the bottom of the cover, more like half way down). I could not make solid contact with the 2x4 when it was all the way at the bottom. I did run it "long ways" though to disperse the impact across the entire front of the cover. I may just be confused. A pic would be a big plus before I try man-handling this thing.

I'm really amazed that it hasn't budged yet. I'm expecting to find the gasket melted to the block or something.

Also, has anyone had luck reinstalling the rubber grommet on the side of the cover (has the removable nipple)? I removed one for painting and its been a PITA to get back in. I think I can get it if I lube it with oil 1st but wanted to see if there were any other tricks to getting it back in place.

:edit: Dr9023G mentioned that I could try "wedging" a piece of wood or a metal screwdriver under the driver's side metal hose barb and tap that a couple times with a mallet and it may pry up and off. He also mentioned that removing the oil cap may help relieve and "suction" and aide in the removal. I'll try these ideas during my lunch break today, and anything else you all think of!

:edit2: I was able to remove the valve cover by following Dr9023G's suggestions. It took a couple good pulls/tugs but it popped off. Thanks for everyone's help! I took some pics to show what he was talking about and will try to post them up later.

 

hmmmm..... I was planning on doing bank 1's valve cover gasket and plug tube seals when I did the plugs.... I bet the rear one is even more of a @#$# to get off.

 

It is. :lol:

 

@#$@#$@#$@#$ anyone have any tips on that one?

 

Use the same method I described on that one as well. At worst you may have to pull off the lower intake plenum if it gets too rough.

 

No, I wasn't talking about the valve cover gasket. I have that one, and plan to change it. That, in fact, is the impetus for getting the valve cover off in the first place. I was referring to the plenum gasket. I think I only have the upper one. I don't feel like going to look right now, though.

 

Pictures, please

 

Here is how I got the front cover off:
(Orientation: oil cap @ bottom, MAS @ right, FPR at left)

Disconnect the hose from the barb on the right side.
Stick the screwdriver under the hose barb.
Place the tip of the screwdriver (flathead is best) onto the lip of the cylinder head (or is that the engine block?). Whatever, put the tip on the hard flat surface. Lift the handle of the screwdriver up and keep the tip pushed against the flat surface.

If that doesn't do the trick you may have to use the hammer & 2x4 method to loosen things up a bit 1st. I believe the rear cover has a hose barb as well but I don't know if this method could be used for that side. Anyone know? Hope this helps.

 

oops

 

So I started getting a P0300 and I had a feeling it was due to oil leaking in to my spark plug tubes on the rear bank. I've removed my manifold and the plugs and there is definately oil in them (just not any on the spark plug tips that I can tell). So I'm planning to replace the tube seals and I have removed all but one bolt that is holding the cover to the block. This bolt is at the back left of the cover and seems to be sandwiched between the manifold to block bracket (black steel) and the valve cover. I can't seem to access that bolt. Does the black manifold to block bracket have to be removed first?? #@$@#$! Thanks.

Oh, the timing belt cover doesn't have to be removed before removing the rear valve cover does it?