ok, since we have determined that it's coming from the axle region, that narrows it down to a few possiblities - still cv joint/driveshaft, ball joint, or control arm bushing. I'm not gonna rule out a tie rod (either inner or outer) at this point, but I highly doubt that's the problem as of this point. I would reccomend a front end check at this point. It's quite easy to do yourself or take it to a shop if you are uncomfortable with it. Here's what to do -
1st off, of course place the vehicle on level ground and jack the front end up. Be sure to secure the vehicle using the e-brake or chalk the rear wheels. It's important to leave the car in neutral for this as well...
Place your hands on the tire at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. Pull one hand torwards you and one hand away from you, alternating back and forth between hands. You are checking for looseness here from side to side. If you feel any, then the possibilities are inner or outer tie rod, ball joint, or control arm bushing. If no looseness is felt, place your hands at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position and repeat this test again feeling for looseness. If you get any, possibilities are hub and bearing, ball joint, or control arm bushing. If you feel none either way, then your tie rods (both inner and outer), ball joints, hub and bearing, and control arm bushings are fine. That would narrow it down to either driveshaft/ cv-joint, strut/strut mount. If this is the case, you can eliminate struts if you do the following two things - check for leaks in the strut cylinder at both ends of it's travels (at the seals) and physically try lifting the tire from the bottom (if it's easy to do, the struts are bad... the other way to do this is the good ol bounce test...). A broken strut mount can be difficult to check, but all you do is grab a hold of the strut assembly by the bottom and pull it torwards you. If it moves torwards the top, the mount is probably either not seated correctly or is broken. About the only other way to check a mount is to physically take the strut assembly out of the car....
What to do if you feel looseness during the front end check. It may be helpful to aquire a friend's assistance here....
get up under the car and repeat both tests again (this is where the friend comes in handy... have him shake the tire for you cuz sometimes it's a little difficult to do from under there). Keep an eye open on the side to side test for play in the ball joint, and outer tie rod. For the up and down test, look for play in the hub and bearing and the ball joint (also control arm bushing, but usually you can physically see something's a miss here well before you do the tests again...). If either test doesn't merit anything for you, then the more likely culprit for the play is the inner tie rod. To check it, grab hold of it and pull it back torwards the rack and pinion setup (torwards the center of the car). If the play goes away then, that's your problem child. You can sometimes actually get the inner tie rod to move up and down or is painfull obvious that it's loose when you grab a hold of it as well.
still, in my opinion, I think it's either the cv joint or the driveshaft itself. The boots don't have to be ripped for them to be bad. Turn the wheel to the left where it'll make the noise and spin the tire while keeping your ears open on both of em. I'm pretty sure it's probably one of the two (which you might as well say driveshaft for either cuz most places are gonna replace the whole assembly. not too many places fix and repack cv joints anymore...).
). Noise is vibration. It will be 2 parts rubbing on each other. It *sounds* to me like something coming through a sheet of metal (like a strut) as opposed to somethign solid (like a brake rotor). That's just an opinion of course
