Just replaced my water pump and timing belt on my 03 eclispe GTS only to find that after driving for some time my Service Engine Soon light appeared... Turns out i was completly out of coolant that i had just refilled!!! After studying my car for some time i realized that once the engine is cold it leaks fluid from what appears to be my Water Pump!!!!:rant2: Any Ideas? I just replaced it so it shouldnt leak!!! Maybe its Faulty?
mjames924
Leaky Water Pump
True. It could be the water pump gasket (there is 2 I think) or, the O-ring of the water pipe thingy that runs from the water pump to the other side of the engine.
Darn.. Its just sooooo much work and i dont have the money to get a mechanic to do it. Where is the O ring located in my GTS
The o-ring will be on the back side of that plate the the water pump bolts to. It goes to the coolant tube as mentioned above. I can post a pic of it tomorrow if you need.
While i was changing it i never noticed an O-Ring... one came in the box but i never installed it... Do you think this is the problem?
It definitely could be. Could be a number of things though. So as promised here are some pictures. They are from an old engine so don't mind the dirt.
When you pull the water pump off, then you pull the plate off you will see this. Here is the back of the plate:
![Image]()
Then look where the water pump was and you will see this:
![Image]()
The tube there will have the O-Ring on it.
Good luck!
When you pull the water pump off, then you pull the plate off you will see this. Here is the back of the plate:
Then look where the water pump was and you will see this:
The tube there will have the O-Ring on it.
Good luck!
It would be easier to pull the dizzy and water neck to change that ring, than breaking down timing components. Hopfully it.
Yeah im thinking its the O Ring... planning on tearing it all apart again. What do you mean by pull the dizzy and water neck?
He means to remove the distributor, the whole coolant housing piece, then the water pipe which is held on by one bolt. The water pipe runs under the intake manifold from the water pump to the coolant housing.
Basically it would be less work to replace the o-ring using that method because you wont have to touch the timing and all the stuff in front of the water pump.
Basically it would be less work to replace the o-ring using that method because you wont have to touch the timing and all the stuff in front of the water pump.
He means to remove the distributor, the whole coolant housing piece, then the water pipe which is held on by one bolt. The water pipe runs under the intake manifold from the water pump to the coolant housing.
Basically it would be less work to replace the o-ring using that method because you wont have to touch the timing and all the stuff in front of the water pump.
Basically it would be less work to replace the o-ring using that method because you wont have to touch the timing and all the stuff in front of the water pump.
Hmmm sounds much better than digging into the timing belt portion... that was just a complete pain.. thanks so much for the advice. Ill tell you guys how it goes!!
WHY THE FUCK IS THIS NOT IN PROBLEM REPORTS.
MORE IMPORTANTLY WHY ARE YOU ALL POSTING IN A THREAD ABOUT A CAR PROBLEM THAT'S NOT IN PROBLEM REPORTS.
EVEN MORE CRITICAL, WHY HAVE NONE OF YOU REPORTED THIS THREAD AS BEING OUT OF PLACE?
I handed out a warning about this already.
MORE IMPORTANTLY WHY ARE YOU ALL POSTING IN A THREAD ABOUT A CAR PROBLEM THAT'S NOT IN PROBLEM REPORTS.
EVEN MORE CRITICAL, WHY HAVE NONE OF YOU REPORTED THIS THREAD AS BEING OUT OF PLACE?
I handed out a warning about this already.
Maybe not, if the black coating is still there you could get by reusing the gaskets. I think if you don't remove the distributor it will be hard to get to the heater hose pipes mounting bolts.
Also get the o-ring for the cam cover cap on the front head. You can only remove the cap when the thermostat housing is out, and those o-rings leak constantly
Also get the o-ring for the cam cover cap on the front head. You can only remove the cap when the thermostat housing is out, and those o-rings leak constantly
My timing belt went on my 03 GTS so I had to have the heads reworked and all that. Changed the water pump while I was at it. Take it from me, get FACTORY OEM O-rings. They are $7 at the dealership but anything else will leak! Also replace the two small heater hose ones. They are $5 at the dealership, I think. Use petroleum jelly to lubricate the O-rings and be very careful when stabbing that pipe into the water pump (assuming the water pump stays in the car while you take off the dizzy and T-housing). Then leave the bolt holding the water pipe to the head (via the bracket) LOOSE while stabbing the T-housing back on. Be VERY careful because it is VERY easy to pinch that O-ring. Make sure the O-ring seats and the flanges on the T-housing mate up flush to the heads (NOTE: recommend new gaskets there and ensuring clean surfaces. I've made paper gaskets though that work well, but stick to the surfaces if you have to take the T-housing back off). You MUST stop trying to stab stuff in anywhere if it puts up too much resistance. Resistance=pinching, but it shouldn't be too easy. If it's too easy your O-rings are too small and you will be back at square one. Once your T-housing is TORQUED back down, use a 12mm wrench to tighten that little bolt securing the water pipe to the head. Be very careful with the heater hose O-rings as well. Those things will piss coolant like mad if they aren't just right.
re-installing the T-housing is a delicate thing. To do this right, I had to put my nose right down on there so I could see the water pipe stab properly into the housing. The bolt is left loose so you can reach under and wiggle the pipe to line it up.
Other notes: try to be careful of the O-ring on the water pump side of the pipe when pushing it through the valley under the intake. you don't want any debris on it and don't want to damage it either. When I got it right, I was 100% sure it was right. Lube up the dizzy O-ring with fresh oil. Use brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner to clean the areas after installation so ease in diagnosing new leaks. If you get the T-housing back on and have to tighten the four bolts to get it to fluch up to the head, your O-ring is out of whack. The housing flanges should at least be really close to the heads and only require a couple turns of the bolts to get them to flush up.
I've made every mistake in the book on this one. Too small O-rings, not lubricating, tightening the 12 mm bolt and misaligning components. I even left out the bolt on the heater hose brackets that secures them to the lift/plenum support bracket. Sorry about the long post.
re-installing the T-housing is a delicate thing. To do this right, I had to put my nose right down on there so I could see the water pipe stab properly into the housing. The bolt is left loose so you can reach under and wiggle the pipe to line it up.
Other notes: try to be careful of the O-ring on the water pump side of the pipe when pushing it through the valley under the intake. you don't want any debris on it and don't want to damage it either. When I got it right, I was 100% sure it was right. Lube up the dizzy O-ring with fresh oil. Use brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner to clean the areas after installation so ease in diagnosing new leaks. If you get the T-housing back on and have to tighten the four bolts to get it to fluch up to the head, your O-ring is out of whack. The housing flanges should at least be really close to the heads and only require a couple turns of the bolts to get them to flush up.
I've made every mistake in the book on this one. Too small O-rings, not lubricating, tightening the 12 mm bolt and misaligning components. I even left out the bolt on the heater hose brackets that secures them to the lift/plenum support bracket. Sorry about the long post.
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