I would just mount it on either the left or right side of the trunk and run the new wires where the fuel lines go, underrneath the car.

 

sweet thanx

 

Let me just throw this out there.

I cringe at the statement run the wires where the fuel lines go.

I don’t think putting your battery in the passenger compartment is a good idea, even if you are using a gel battery.

I will not go into all the reasons because it seems people just don’t read long posts.

If you are interested, I would offer some different solutions.

 

Just run a good sealed battery box in the hatch, vented out the bottom of the car. You can buy the entire kit, which includes everything you need to hook it up from Summit racing, Jeg's, etc. Be advised though, if you race at an NHRA or IHRA sanctioned track that actually techs you in, they will require a remote battery disconnect switch anytime the battery is relocated.

 

ok, thats helpfull. i was thinking of putting the wires through where i have my glow kit wires and amp wires on the drivers side "firewall" and drag them through the driver side door sill and around to either the driver or passenger side of the trunk, there is a vent there, i think id prefer the driver side because the fuel cap is on the passenger side. anyway, go ahead and post a long post, ive got the day off.

 

im going to ask alwp where he routed his cables, but hes not online here much with 26 posts.

 

ok, thats helpfull. i was thinking of putting the wires through where i have my glow kit wires and amp wires on the drivers side "firewall" and drag them through the driver side door sill and around to either the driver or passenger side of the trunk, there is a vent there, i think id prefer the driver side because the fuel cap is on the passenger side. anyway, go ahead and post a long post, ive got the day off.

That's a heavy gauge wire to drag down the door sill. I would find a good routing option under the car, and secure the wire with those nice insulated metal wire clamps. If you go inside the car, you might also run into EMI problems, especially if you have amps, etc. Also, if something does short out, and worst case scenario, if it's properly routed under the car, burning wire won't damage anything, but if it's under the carpet, you're screwed. Take your time, check your routing about 5 times before you start drilling, and have some fun. I haven't done it on this car, so I can't give you any routing tips, but on my other cars, it wasn't too hard, just don't half-ass it and use wire ties and crap to hold the cable up, chances are it'll come back and haunt you.

 

That's a heavy gauge wire to drag down the door sill. I would find a good routing option under the car, and secure the wire with those nice insulated metal wire clamps. If you go inside the car, you might also run into EMI problems, especially if you have amps, etc. Also, if something does short out, and worst case scenario, if it's properly routed under the car, burning wire won't damage anything, but if it's under the carpet, you're screwed. Take your time, check your routing about 5 times before you start drilling, and have some fun. I haven't done it on this car, so I can't give you any routing tips, but on my other cars, it wasn't too hard, just don't half-ass it and use wire ties and crap to hold the cable up, chances are it'll come back and haunt you.

:agreed:

 

awsome advice, thanx

 

when i did miine i did the following, which is not as easy as might appear:

i also got a kit from jegs, right side trunk, i wrapped the cable with the serrated cable protectant, ran it down along & cable tied it to the fuel tube supports all the way down & crossed over , (above), the exhaust piping.
then was able to find a opening on the drivers side up along the fire wall & attached to the existing battery positive cable.
now that took some doing! went to pep boys & bought a battery cable setup & rigged it to the new cable so that i could join both cables. once done, covered both cables with a piece of rubber tubing & wire tied it to a support.
by the way, in the trunk used one of the latch bolts as a ground.
its been this way for almost a year with no problems & i do HPDE & time trial so it gets more abuse than street.
to add, also have the optima red top. you will also need post covers to do it right, along with a sturdy bolt down system but those came with the kit.
good luck!

 

you could also ask Rulez, he has the battery back there

 

if you put a battery in the car like that please put it in a steel box bolted to the car thats vented to the outside.

have you considered routing the power cable the same way they do for amps on this car?

 

if you put a battery in the car like that please put it in a steel box bolted to the car thats vented to the outside.

have you considered routing the power cable the same way they do for amps on this car?

I think someone already said that would be a bad idea running the cable on the left side under the carpet and panels. Since it will cause electrical interference and if a spark should form somewhere it might cause a fire.

I think the best way to do it is to go and protect the cable in some tubing etc, and run it along the fuel lines and put a battery box in the trunk and ground it to one of those bolts, dont forget to scratch off the paint so you make a proer ground. Also I know going to soem tracks nothing having a battery in the engine bay will make some tracks not let you race.

 

not worried about racing right now but a good tip to know later down the road.
stilwrks= could i see some pics of your set up starting in the engine bay to underneith to in the trunk? appriciate it.

 

well i was thinking in a grounded jacket or something. if you run it under the car use some aluminum or steel conduit to keep the weather/bumps and dirt away from the cable.

 

The fact that you are even entertaining the idea of electrical interference in regards to routing a DC power cable is a strong indicator that you all don’t know a thing about electrical systems.

 

The fact that you are even entertaining the idea of electrical interference in regards to routing a DC power cable is a strong indicator that you all don’t know a thing about electrical systems.

good point, thats why im trying to do some homework, mind getting off my ass now?

 

The fact that you are even entertaining the idea of electrical interference in regards to routing a DC power cable is a strong indicator that you all don’t know a thing about electrical systems.

someone said something about overheating or sparking so i suggested the jacket. i know that straight DC current wont create interference. you need a magnetic feild that moves to make interference in electronics. i also know you werent reffering to me, but i wanted to make it clear why i suggested that. i have a basic grasp of car electrical and circuitry

as for the armored cable or conduit, its not a bad idea if runs outside the car to have the wires protected from moisture and physical damage.

 

Armored cable is only good for so many feet, because if the wires inside short out to the metal armor then it has enough resistance to heat up like a toaster element. If you are going to put a battery in the trunk a gel cell battery is a must. A regular lead cell battery off gasses hydrogen.

I really haven't ever thought about this before, but I would think that a fuse next to the battery and one in the engine bay would be a good idea. If the positive cable were to short out to anything, then both fuses would blow, and the car would shut off.

As for running it inside the car how is this different from running a positive wire for an audio system? Also, grounding is a big issue. If I were to do it then I would probably run a negative cable too and find a good ground in the trunk. This way the stock body ground is still intact and would be reinforced by the one in the trunk.

 

The fact that you are even entertaining the idea of electrical interference in regards to routing a DC power cable is a strong indicator that you all don’t know a thing about electrical systems.

OK, so explain why every car stereo installer recommends running the power down one side, and RCA's down the other, and if they cross, they can cause engine noise.

 

OK, so explain why every car stereo installer recommends running the power down one side, and RCA's down the other, and if they cross, they can cause engine noise.

:idea: shes not running car audio, shes only running a DC power cable. if she had audio cables running through there im sure it would be different.

that DC cable is far enough away from anything that it could possibly interefere with that it doesnt matter. DC has a stable constant magnetic feild surrounding it. those audio cables have power levels that fluctuate up and down with the sound going through them. those feilds inside of the DC powercables feild can create interference. thats my understanding of it.

 

Armored cable is only good for so many feet, because if the wires inside short out to the metal armor then it has enough resistance to heat up like a toaster element.

no it doesnt. and i wasnt suggesting she use armored cable to RUN the power, but that she should run the cable through armor. sorry i didnt make myself clear.


even in a home situation with AC your armored cable isnt gonna turn into a redhot snake, how are the cut resistant insulation clad copper wires shorting to the armor? wouldnt the hot short to ground or nuetral rather than the cable?

 

OK, so explain why every car stereo installer recommends running the power down one side, and RCA's down the other, and if they cross, they can cause engine noise.

For the same reason that most every one that feels a shimmy in their steering wheel when they apply the breaks thinks they have a warped rotor.

They don’t know the real cause of the problems they have created so they espouse the keep them separated just in case attitude.

Long ago in the dark times, when cars had generators and tube radios, there was a great deal of noise from the brushes and commutator of the generator transferred through the charging circuits into the DC power lines of cars.

Now days alternators and their charging circuits are very well designed and because there is a diode bridge to convert the AC that the alternator generates into DC for the batteries charge there is very little noise.

That is, until someone goes in there and starts messing around asking the alternator to do more than it was designed to do or adding a cheep amp that has a switching power supply that produces counter EMF hash in the charging circuit and uses poorly shielded cables and poor connector attachments.

 

soo many people buy those crappy 2000 (20W RMS) watt "$50 on sale at circuit city" pyramid amp and wonder "whats that humming?"

 

run a smaller battery ;p