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itz_tha_dre

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I bring my car to a tune shop in NJ, and after an hour or two after getting on the dyno, my tuner tells me that he's logging ridiculous amounts of knock after 10psi, like upwards of 20.

I have a 2002 RS Turbo (440CC injectors, 16g Evo 3, Evo Fuel Pump, Evo 8 Ecu flashed by FlashBlueRS)

I've been searching and reading that the knock sensor PIN on our STOCK ecu is PIN 90, and that on the Evo 8, it's pin 78. (Could someone verify this as well? I saw the Ecu Thread on dual ecus and it does say pin 90 is our knock sensor, but my tuner said he looked on his computer and the software said that it was the same pin as the Evo's??)

Now, if indeed this is true, why would it be giving me crazy knock only AFTER 10psi? If its getting the wrong signal, shouldn't it throw a code and also run like crap? Also, if I switch these pins around, as well as any other pins, it should be okay to tune, given that everything else is okay?

Thanks for any help you guys provide. Much appreciated!
 
I would imagine that you're somehow not getting fuel above 10psi... only thing I can think of. What are you running for a regulator and what octane are you using
I agree, what regulator/octane?

from what i know pin 90 is for auto matic with knock sensor.. i believe the evo and urs is the same pin for manual tranny...
I agree. For manual, ECU should be direct swap pin for pin.
 
im might be short on fuel pressure after 10psi. ARE you using the evo rail FPR?? Nobodys really proven if the stock rail/fpr can hang. From my experience the 440s just dont have that much to give. It sounds like youre short on fuel though.
 
It's all dependent on the turbo. I couldn't go above 6ish with my 440's.

Main thing is you need to have the pressure in the rail. If he's not running the evo regulator and the octane is too low he's going to get knocks. I'm surprised the tuner didn't check his hardware.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the quick responses everyone.

I have an Aeromotove FPR on the stock rail and I'm using 93 octane.

MAF is suck through, currently trying to recirculate it. (I have to get some aluminum welded to my intake pipe and then I can recirculate it. I've never had any stalling problems or idle problems with it being VTA, but I figure that I should recirculate as to not run rich while shifting and waste gas)
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
when u lower ur timing does it decrease the knock at all? Could be the motor or overtightened knock sensor? Put low timing up top and see what happens

I think when my tuner lowered the timing, it did in fact decrease the knock, but it made the car much slower at the same psi. I'm trying to get him to send me the logs of the runs so you guys could see.

Do you think it could be phantom knock too? I do have a lot of vibrations going on, which I'm trying to get fixed.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Do you know the fuel pressure? You could easily hook cheap a mechanical gauge to the FPR and watch the pressure. Have you changed the fuel pump, or hardwired the stock pump?
I'm not sure of the fuel pressure at full boost, but I do have a fuel gauge hooked up to my FPR. From what I remember, my tuner told me that fuel isn't an issue; he said I have enough for the amount of boost I'm looking for, it's just that it's knocking way too much. Those at the shop told me to try to get rid of the vibrations and such to see if it is indeed false knock.

The fuel pump is an Evo 8 fuel pump.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Whoa .024? I think I have mine at like .029 or something. For like 14.5 psi, what size gap should I go for? .024 as well?

Thanks for the input! I'll try that as soon as I get a chance.

Erep for you all. =] I'll let you know what's up when I get a chance.
 
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