I recommend them. Picture it this way, you find the need to replace the pulleys in the timing components. These are encased in the timing covers where they will receive less exposure to environmental factors like the rain and dirt these other pulleys receive.

 

Ah, good point. Has this ever broken on anyone though?

I've been reading up on the timing belt deal and realized mine could practically break at any moment now at about 100k. I don't drive rough but I do drive on the freeway often.

 

Also, what brand of timing belt tensioner and idler is on the car originally? I'm looking at Dayco and Beck/Arnley.

Thanks for your help.

 

100k without a change, running down a thinning road! If you need affordable labor for the job, you should post your location to find a user near you.

For the timing belt components, I appreciate the piece of mind by factory Mitsu parts, but for the serp/ps Idler & tensioner pulleys, any local auto parts store will do the trick. Won't hurt to see if any offer a multi year warranty on the parts.

 

I bought a water pump/timing belt/balance shaft belt/idler kit off of eBay for $100 and I couldn't be happier. :yesway: (It was for a GS though)

 

I don't really know how to get factory mitsu parts, I'm assuming the dealer, but they are probably out of my price range... .

Something interesting though as I've been trying to figure out the best bang for my buck, as far as the water pump, Advance Auto has Dayco, Beck/Arnley with 1YR Warranty, Driveworks with 2YR Warranty , and a cheapo GMB with LIMITED LIFETIME!! WTF!!!

Why are the brands you think would be better offering crappy warranties? Why are they not confident in their product like the crap company? Its like the more generic the brand, the better the warranty.... :dunno:


Oh, nvm. Just looked into LIMITED LIFETIME warrantys... double edged sword. Risky! Only replaced once then a 90 day warranty on that. But still the driveworks part is 2YR. hmmm..

 

Any opinion on this ebay listing? Pretty much whole kit like you were talking about. How would the manufacturers warranty work if bought off eBay?

DAYCO WP259K2A Timing Belt Kit | eBay

Should I also purchase a crankshaft seal set? Or will I not really need that?

Thanks I sincerely appreciate your help.

 

IMO I would stay away from mechanical items on eBay, lights and other ricer stuff is ok... I would save up and go to the dealer for parts, you can't go wrong

 

Yes and no. Do some research first. But there are a lot of people who sell legit stuff on eBay for a much lower than in store rate. Just look at the facts and their ratings and what other items they sell. If theyre selling an American made product from Asia that might throw a flag for you. There is nothing wrong with buying real, new, authentic OEM replacement parts from eBay. Just be smart about it.

 

Get the Timing belt from the dealer and the rest of the stuff from Rockauto.com. They have really good prices. That's what I did anyway on mine.

 

Is there somewhere to get OEM dealer parts online at a good price? I mean I've found a few on good ol google, but want to know if there is someplace youve had a good experience with that I may not be seeing. Thanks for all the info thus far.

 

I used the gates kit,Gates PowerGrip TCK259 - Timing Component Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts
i got it for $90 under my business account and added the dorman 420-106 tensioner.Dorman OE Solutions 420-106 - Timing Belt Tensioner | O'Reilly Auto Parts

That was 60k miles ago so no complaints here. For the serpentine pulleys autozone had the best price!!

 

If you searched you will see OEM's fail all the time with less than 100k miles so i will argue all day about oem being better:ninja2: My op.

 

Well, with what your saying, Tom, I may just go with the Dayco kit off eBay... Call me crazy lol. I messaged the seller and they warranty it all for a year, and also pointed me to the Dayco website, where it says Dayco themselves, warranty their kits (as long as all parts installed) up to the car manufacturers recommended change interval.

Now what I wonder is how hard it is to get the Dayco warranty and if you need an actual mechanic's sales sheet, or if they act like its no big deal. Calling Dayco's warranty guy now... left a message.

But then again, even with a good warranty, they wont warranty the damages to the engine if this shii breaks... If it were to break, and I noticed pretty quickly, how much damage would you guess it caused?

 

I would also use RockAuto.com for everything. That's because I did. Bought my GT this year, because it had 127,000 miles on it, I changed the timing belt as soon as possible. I used Aisin (original mfr) water pump, Dayco belt kit (belt + pullies), and dayco adjuster. I also changed crankshaft seal, drive belts, radiator hoses, heater hoses, thermostat at the same time.

RockAuto.com is a a site sponsor, their 5% discount code number is in the first message here: http://www.club3g.com/forum/rockauto/149369-rockauto-introduction-discount-code.html

You're correct about part warranties- they'll replace the part, but won't pay for engine damage.

[PS- I would've bought that complete kit but I wanted the original manufacturer water pump]

 

Is crankshaft seal pretty much necessary or no? Just bought eBay kit, may still get OEM belt (still cheaper with extra belt even lol), and noslack pully for drive belts. Wish me luck!

Also, any tips on the timing belt/water pump and all that? I'm going to follow the HOWTO but wondering if there are any tips not in that? Thanks

 

Did the Dayco belt have timing marks? I've heard they don't, but not sure. I hope they do!! If not any tips on getting it in correct?

 

The timing marks are on the cam gears vs valve cover and crank sprocket vs block. Set the motor to TDC before you remove the old belt.

 

How would you go about getting the engine to TDC?

I've never done a timing belt, but every guide I've used on here has proven as a great tool for success, not to mention the help of everyone on the forum.

Anything I should read or watch besides the HOWTO for GT timing belt? Everything I know about cars is because of this site right here and youtube pretty much lol. Havent *ucked nothing up so far...

 

About getting it to TDC, you just need to spin the engine (using a ratchet on the crank bolt) so the timing gears align with the marks on the cases. You'll see the marks once you get off the black plastic timing belt covers.

You don't need to do the crankshaft seal. But it's a good time to do it.

Like Tom said the how-to is very detailed. Don't forget the factory manual as a backup; Tearstone has it online at Tearstone Performance - Service Manuals . If you want more info you could see all the trouble I had with mine (and how everyone helped me out) at my old message here: http://www.club3g.com/forum/problem-reports/146111-timing-belt-job-problems-questions.html

Another tip = at some point the crankshaft gear might slide off the shaft. if it does, make absolutely sure that the little pins on the back of the crank gear fit into the little holes in the crankshaft position sensor's reluctor wheel (3 prong wheel). Some guys here had it slip out, when they started the engine, it sheared the pins off and the car wouldn't run.

[edit] Oh one more big tip- take a LOT of pictures with a digital camera. It helps when you put everything back together. Take a few "general" pictures of the whole area before you start. You never know when you need to zoom in on some obscure wiring harness from the corner of the engine bay.

 

Oh back to your original drive-belt (not timing belt) question- when you get the pulley off, see if there's any play between the pulley and it's center hub. They should feel solid together, like one piece, the center shouldn't wiggle from side to side- if it feels loose, the bearing's getting worn out. One of mine is like that though, and I didn't change it, and so far so good

 

If you want more info you could see all the trouble I had with mine (and how everyone helped me out) at my old message here: http://www.club3g.com/forum/problem-reports/146111-timing-belt-job-problems-questions.html

Holey moley! Glad I asked, reading through and there is a lot of things I now know to pay more attention too! Anyone ever get any pics of these issues? Especially with those pins?

 

Oh, and whats up with unplugging the CPS? so the engine doesnt start. Thats what everyone did or?

 

Yup and the wire will be in the way anyway.

I took pics but never got them online.

There's a guy selling one on ebay. If you look at the second picture you can see the pins in the back of the crank sprocket. Here's the link: Timing Belt Crankshaft Lower Sprocket Gear Pulley - Mitsubishi V6 NEW OEM | eBay

Hopefully you won't run into any of the problems I did

 

I hate to bump this thread again, but I was wondering is there any other things I should do that's not in the HOWTO, that you guys probably find to be common sense? Like unplugging CPS? Thanks for everyones help and such great info. I'd be effed without this forum.

 

In the HOWTO guide for timing belt, it says to relieve the tension on the timing belt to be able to get the aluminum casing off. And later to turn the crank to line up marks. And then to loosen the tensioner so the belt will come off.

Would it be ok to just loosen the timing belt tensioner, take off aluminum case, take off the belt, and THEN line up the marks on the crank and cams? Or can these only be rotated together and with belt on? Or would the engine parts hit?

And If I must do it that way, then how do you loosen the tensioner to loosen belt to get aluminum case off then tighten it back? Or do you not? :dunno:

This is probably you guys right now --> :facepalm:
and sorry! I've still got a lot to learn...

Thanks for the help!

 

Oh, and merry christmas!

 

What aluminum casing are you talking about to get the timing belt off?