Just curious how come I see more and more people on here talking like this. Sorry not ghetto like I said before my bad. Its one thing to say it while your talking to your friends but typing it out just makes you look stupid in my opinion. I already know people will disagree with me saying this on here but it annoys me.

Well to answer question number 2 (keep in mind I hardly know shit about cars so if my advice is wrong correct me, but I have heard these from someone on here). If you are rebuilding the whole engine, and it seems like you are, then the miles shouldn't really matter. Because in order to get 500whp you are going to have to rebuild most of the engine. Or at least upgrade a couple things. And it is possible to push 500whp out of this engine, look at finnesse's build he is going to be getting around 750whp.

 

Just curious how come I see more and more people on here talking like this. Please use proper english and stop talkin all ghetto. Its one thing to say it while your talking to your friends but typing it out just makes you look stupid in my opinion. I already know people will disagree with me saying this on here but it annoys me.

Although I can't stand it either, it is quite normal common language for the Southern portion of the United States. I don't like the fact that you said for him to stop "talkin" all ghetto. You should finish your own sentences properly before flaming someone for bad English/grammar.

 

It's not ghetto, it's actually old english grammar to say that you're fixing for someething. I don't have a problem with it.

1: I wouldn't bore, you won't get as much power as if you boosted it.
2: If your boosting, you'll be wanting to upgrade most of it's components anyways to handle the whp you're aiming at.
3: Start out with headers to exhaust, and then start working for boost I'd say.

 

Yeah I know sorry its not ghetto. Didn't really mean to say that because in all places its not used like that. But I live in Flint so the people who do use it are ghetto my bad. And I hope I answered your question a little

 

Whooppps double post sorry. Jerm would you say go with a 3" piping for the exhaust or 2.5".

 

If he's going boost I'm pretty sure he's going to want to go 3", but He'll be losing power with 3" NA until he gets boosted.

 

Alright thanks that helped me too. See I don't understand how exhaust works and I have been trying to figure it out for awhile. And know what sorry about saying it was ghetto. I'll admit it when I'm wrong I just can't stand hearing it let alone seeing people type it.

If you want to get around 500whp plan on spending over 10 grand.

 

Lol don't worry about it haha. But ya, I forget who posted a picture proving why it causes less power, but it's basically "back pressure" because the NA doesn't force enough pressure out through the 3"... It's like blowing through a straw compared to blowing through an 1" 1/2 PVC pipe, which one is easier?

 

i would bore .040 over, then get some 9:1 forged pistons, some forged rods, have the rotating assembly balanced, and run a 3" turbo back exhaust. brian wheat has a shop real close to you, he will be alot of help, go talk to him, boston hatcher should have his number. hell talk to boston about this, he knows what he's doing.

 

dang yall leave him lone bout da way he be talkin...

lol just kidding. this is a forum of many different cultural backgrounds and dialects. let the little shit go. anyway, i was a little disappointed that it took nearly three posts to get any type of answer. lol funny nonetheless. but i'll gently place my opinion out there for countryrunner.

1. standard bore is good enough on the 74 regardless of boost or NA plans. its what you do with it in the end that matters. i went to a 94mm bore on mine and have no issues and am about to possibly go 95 as long as my wall thickness checks out (and i know it will). but the reason i went bigger is actually a matter of miscommunication from CP. so i ended up with bigger pistons. lol

2. 120k on the odo for boost could be waiting for a problem like sitting on a time bomb. but i say could because if a motor was well taken care of for the life of the motor then it would be good to go. there was a member who twin turbo'd his GT and had 183k on the odo. but it was a meticulous care process he took to verify it was good to go. now, if you have plans on an overbore, new rods, and redoing the rest, the motor will be at a state of newness anyway as long as the block was never stressed from abuse or overheating or coking. new bearings, micropolish the crank, stock rods (because they will handle over 500whp), forged low compression pistons, head work and some cams, along with a fuel and ignition system to make the power and you will at least have your stepping stones for a good build. of course there are quite a few other things but like i said, this will set you in motion.

3. i say, if you're going to boost this motor and you are very well sure of it, save your money. saving your money will be the most beneficial thing here since the 3g community has some short comings when it comes to FI support. there are some out there for sure but you will have to pay to play. now if you are efficient with your setup and finding deals you wont spend all the money most here will preach about. but do understand that if you buy parts in a hasty manner and dont do your research, you will get bitten. so, build your parts list and begin to collect. get the motor refreshed and save the money you can towards your end goal.

sorry for the long post but i hope that helps. im not saying its the only way but i am saying its one of the best. ive done a ton of research on this motor and its limits and am still learning, as we all should be. im sure a few other sound members will chime in as well. also, take a look around on 3si.org and search for members there who have done the 74 swap. that way you will get an idea of what this motor is capable of (yes on a different platform, but very similar nonetheless).

 

(Another thing that is needed greatly is ARP Head Studs, ARP Rod Bolts, and ARP Main Bolts/Main Studs.)Hmm I just looked for these parts by ARP and I could only find the Rod bolts. I thought this information was correct though I got it from someone reputable on here. :/ Someone correct me if I'm wrong

And boostz on my first post I did try helping after I complained

 

lol you know im just giving you and sky shit. lol.

 

Woooot!! You have an automatic transmission like me therefor I can bring this up and get some of my questions answered tooo. How much power has the shit automatic transmission been proven to handle on these cars? Just replaced my torque converter three months ago Should have gotten a high stall one put in

 

I posted in my "new Ideas" thread about the bolts and studs. I got all 3 for like 650 or something like that. Your best bet is to blueprint it, and then get it running on stock 3.0 injectors. Then when its all scaled and worked out, change the injectors to the ones for boost. Get the whole thing running with no knock and then you can start building up parts for the turbo. I have the 3.0L piping for the turbo (the Y part up to the turbo flange with wastegate port) i think came from greg or russ that you could purchase, as well as some misc stuff I can sort through to try to help ya out. thats if you decide to go turbo of course.

Honestly just blueprint and balance the block. Get forged pistons, and you may HAVE to bore it out, so wait on worrying about that till you look at the cylinders. When the machine shop blueprinted my engine they had all kinds of hardening techniques they use which may be available to you as well.

 

Go read that thread, "New Ideas", because it covers all these questions. All of them. Skipping a bore job is like putting on new tires a not checking your alignment, literally and figuratively. Especially with higher mileage, you will be driving a bomb without full blueprint.

The auto holds 300whp with a GOOD cooler. You can get it built to do whatever you like.

Stock rods on the 74 are solid. Get em shot peened (some shops do heat treating) and sized for bearings with some ARP rod bolts and you're set for 500hp just fine.

 

well a bore isn't always required, but at that mileage I'm going to say it will most likely be necessary. If nothing else, it has to be honed. You gotta figure, for forged performance applications theres a bigger clearance required, so if your lucky like me, you will fall into that requirement with a good hone job. Your best bet is to get it stripped down and to a machine shop. THEY will know what your specs have to be wether ground down or what.

 

You can get a bore job for 160$ at a good shop around here... there is NO reason to skimp with that kind of price. If you do not get a bore job, and you wouldn't ONLY because your bore is PERFECT, then you have custom pistons made for whatever you bore is after the hone job. Drop in shit is hit and miss, you're damn lucky if it works.

Every measurement, every center, angle, length etc is contingent on one another. The centers on the crank must match that of the bores or your rods will be crooked which will in turn spin a bearing or/and kill your cylinder walls. The rods must be perfectly round and the crank journals flawless with the matching bearings or you'll spin one. Everything in an engine depends on everything else, so you can't leave anything out.

 

Sweeet just got a free lesson from reading your comments...

Ok his first problem will be his automatic transmission. Sooo I heard that you lose from like 25-35% of your hp with an automatic transmission. And about 15-20% or somewhere around that with a manual. I'm just curious if you get your automatic transmission built up with high stall torque converter/ other shit will it gain a lot of that hp back and make it equivalent to the manual? I mean IPT gave me a quote and it would be $3,200 hundred to get my automatic transmission built without install and taking it out. So roughly around $4,500 obviously with that money I could drive down to pharm and get a manual transmission put in with a really good clutch. But I was just wondering if it will get most of that horsepower back that is lost through an auto.

I have a local shop that will bead blast, bore, and a bath for $100 and shave the heads for another $60. They did a cleaning, measure, hone, 1 sleeve, and cam bearings for $200 on my Jeep block. Shop around.

These transmissions are very stout except for a waver spring thats is a little brittle. These are used in many vehicles and I have heard of people puttin 450 hp thru them. We do complete rebuilds in our shop for roughly $2000 for a pull, rebuild, and install.

 

Say your gap for putting the pistons in comes to .003 .002 .004 when you measure them all and the spec for your pistons calls for .005. A hone would likely push you to this specification leaving no need to bore.
The problem is when people don't measure and "drop in" pistons. Assuming the clearances are at spec AFTER honing, there is nothing wrong with standard pistons. Pistons aren't perfect, the machinist has to receive the pistons and mic them and find the exact dameter, and make the bores match.
You could also order pistons to the specific bore, but I've only seen that used in brand new engines, not so much rebuilds. What people do is say ok i'm standard bore so use standard (or even measure one cylinder and say ok bore is good) and get a set of all the same sized pistons.
The main concern isn't piston size, it is the proper piston to wall, ring gap, and cylinder roundness/straightness/finish.

Also I was just searching around ,and I saw a few references to standard service size actually being a few thousandths overbore (enough for wear and a hone i'm assuming) from the origional exact factory size

 

Sweeet just got a free lesson from reading your comments...

Ok his first problem will be his automatic transmission. Sooo I heard that you lose from like 25-35% of your hp with an automatic transmission. And about 15-20% or somewhere around that with a manual. I'm just curious if you get your automatic transmission built up with high stall torque converter/ other shit will it gain a lot of that hp back and make it equivalent to the manual? I mean IPT gave me a quote and it would be $3,200 hundred to get my automatic transmission built without install and taking it out. So roughly around $4,500 obviously with that money I could drive down to pharm and get a manual transmission put in with a really good clutch. But I was just wondering if it will get most of that horsepower back that is lost through an auto.

 

I only lost 17% in my SRT-10 :dunno:

 

I guess I'll chime in since I have the most powerful 6G74 motor ever built. To answer your questions:

1. My motor was sonic tested and it was decided to stop at a .040 94mm ONLY because of safety concerns due to the high amount of boost I'll be pushing. This is a quote from my good friend and builder of my motor, PharmEcis:

The sonic testing didn't give me numbers I wanted to see for wall thickness. You're getting a 3.6L w/ the 1mm overbore. The 2.5mm overbore doesn't leave enough meat in certain areas, at least on your particular block. Whether or not other 74's can go that big would have to be tested on an individual basis.

i would bore .040 over, then get some 9:1 forged pistons, some forged rods, have the rotating assembly balanced, and run a 3" turbo back exhaust.

What White Knight said is exactly what I did. I could have gone a little bigger but I would've been risking it. Could you go bigger? Sure, depends on the block.


2. It doesn't have too many miles to boost. I boosted a stock 3.0L 6G72 with over 145,000 miles with a Stage 1 SDS at 6-8 pounds. If you plan to go double digit psi then a rebuild is in order.


3. You sound like myself a few years ago when I started my build as I wanted 500whp. It's VERY possible. I'm going to make WAY more than that. 500whp on a FWD drive car is pretty much useless and that's why I'm going AWD. BUT if you must have 500whp then the first thing to do is rebuild that 6G74. If you read the 3.5L 6G74 Swap Discussion thread starting from page 45 where PharmEcis first debuts my build the details are in there along with pics of my motor being assembled in the following pages.


Also what boostzealot said is GREAT information ESPECIALLY his #3. He definitely knows what he's talking about. :yesway::yesway:

And MitsubishiOwn I see you've learned the error of your thinking after skyy406 gave you a lesson so there's no need for me to go any further with that.

 

well everybody thanks for all the info i know how to break down a engine that's not the hard part for me its knowing what kind of pistons to get and other stuff, the real tech stuff. but i didn't really think that you could make a AWD v6 eclipse i heard of them in the v4, and I'm planning since i will have the engine out to do a auto to manual swap as well i know this might seem too much work but its my first car i ever bought and i want to keep it for many years. and i do have a back up car so i can keep this one in the garage as long as possible. and i already have one part of the exhaust, i have the invidia 3" exhaust which right now i know im losing hp because of back pressure.

 

Oh my god he did it!!!

It's an inline 4. No "v."

 

I did the auto-manual swap. As far as I know I bought most of the remaining parts from mitsu, however swaps show up online from time to time, and people parting the cars out will be your best friend. Its not THAT hard, the ECU is the most annoying part

 

What do you know... shinestreet just started another partout. 00 GT v6. Go for it.

 

sorry i was lazy i didn't feel like typing out "cylinder" i was hoping nobody was catch it lol my bad.

 

Fair enough. :lol:

 

Forget about the 74. It is a sub par engine now that the truth about the 75 has been discovered.

Pound for pound, the 75 wins all day long.

 

Greg if you made and sold all of the parts that have to be fabricated on the engine, that might be some good money there, and would make some people more interested in the swap

 

What would he need to make?? nothing. You need parts from both the 72 and 74 to make the 75 work. Look in junk yards and pick the parts yourself. Hell If i get the full list of whats needed i can throw sets together for those that want to do the swap.

 

I'm pretty sure you need to make a distributor mounting plate and to grind the axle bracket down a little. Some people (possibly even I) would be interested in having someone else make it for a reasonable price. Some headers that fit right out of the box would be nice too.

 

i thought a crank sensor had to be fabricated? and mounted