Alright I'm here for ya. Here are the wiring codes.
(Originally Equipped with a stock Amp)
Pink - Motor Antenna ECU (If Equipped)
Green/White - Radio Illumination from your parking lights (This dims the head unit when the parking lights turn on)
White/Black - +12v switched (Accessory ON) Fuse 23 (Engine Compartment)
Red/White - +12v (Always ON) Fuse 22 (Engine Compartment)
Black/Yellow - Ground
(No stock Amp)
Yellow/Red-Gray/Red - Right rear speaker
White/Blue-Black/Blue - Left door speaker
Orange/Blue-Brown/Blue - Left Tweeter
Yellow/Blue-Gray/Blue - Left rear speaker
White/Red-Black/Red - Right door speaker
Orange/Red-Brown/Red - Right tweeter

Hope that helps for the rewire. Also, if nothing else works like your sunroof or your power locks when the key is out, chances are Fuse 22 or 23 are blown. They're located in a small yellow enclosure and, after removing the negative on the battery terminal, a small screwdriver will easily pry out the two clasps on either side.

 

i dont have the stock amp in and i've checked every single fuse i can think of.

wiring is my downfall.

 

Ah but did you check the radio fuse 22 and 23 in that box I talked about?

 

Sounds like its time to make wiring not your downfall. He fucked it up... clean up after him or pay for the professional. Also, since you didn't have the stock amp, I gotta change some things...

White/Black - +12v Switched (Accessory)
Red/White - +12v Always ON (Main Power)
There will also be a small connector going from the deck to the clock display unit... I hope he didnt use those wires.

 

And by the looks of the picture yes, he cut the wrong friggin connector. That one bundled up at the right with the solid color coded wires? Yeah that goes to your clock display unit... don't use those.

 

AND DONT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!

 

i paid a pro to install it after he fucked it up. ive checked every fuse but i will double check it tomorrow. as for the clock pod wires, how do i hook them back up so they work because i dont remember seeing a wire bundle go up to the pod. is there anything special i need to know?

and basically, what wire needs to go where so my sunroof and locks work again. sorry that im basically asking you to spoon feed me, but if this was an engine problem i'd be all over it like a fat kid to a peice of candy.

 

No problem... I'm sure if I have an engine issue I know who to turn to. Here's the thing, if you no longer have the stock head unit, then just wrap those wires up that originally went to the clock display and stuff them back into the dash because they arent gonna do anything more. As for the sunroof and locks, I'm going to ask you one question and your answer will show us the problem. Do this for me. Go to your car , shut the doors, and start it normally. Turn the car off and take out the key. Open the door and try to operate your power locks... do they operate with the drivers side door open and the key out of the ignition?

 

they will not operate without the key in and on at least accessory power, or completely turned on.

 

you need a multi meter or power probe to check for power and ground at the correct places with the key in different positions as well as the wiring diagrams which you can get from the service manual, time to learn how to read them..its not hard at all.

 

Alright then check your fuses Lethality. That little yellow box in the engine compartment relay panel... those are fuses 22 and 23... change them both. That will fix your problem.

 

Alright then check your fuses Lethality. That little yellow box in the engine compartment relay panel... those are fuses 22 and 23... change them both. That will fix your problem.

you mean this little yellow box?

both of those fuses are fine. just checked them again.

you need a multi meter or power probe to check for power and ground at the correct places with the key in different positions as well as the wiring diagrams which you can get from the service manual, time to learn how to read them..its not hard at all.

i have a very basic power probe but im not sure which setting to turn it to or how to tell if it is properly grounded. i feel like such an idiot when i have to do anything electrical.

 

Im surpised no one said this yet, but the power lock unlock like that if the doors are open. Its like that from the factory.

 

You are missing the point. If one of those fuses I mentioned prior are blown... then the locks will NOT work when I specified. And yes, I mean those fuses.

 

does it when its closed too.

 

Listen to the words that are coming out of my mouth! Change those fuses homeslice... or push the yellow thing in since it may have worked its way out. Do it, do it now!

 

Heres the funny part... The reason those fuses are secured in that yellow thingy is to prevent exactly something like this happening. These two fuses are not dedicated fuses. They power more then one thing... more then three things actually. If you lose one of these you lose about half your car's interior operating systems. For instance, fuse 22 controls your sound system, door locks, interior lighting, headlights, transmission, warning lights, cluster, power windows, wiper system, sun roof, and anti-theft system. See what I mean? Thats alot of shit to lose!

 

i made sure the yellow thing was in tight and i checked the fuses very thoroughly, i dont think i have any spare 10A fuses laying around so the ones in there should be just fine, i dont see why they wouldnt be.

 

Really? You took them out and checked each of them? Not with your eyes but with a multimeter?

 

i dont have a multimeter, only just a cheap little dial thing, idk if that counts as one, but idk how i would check a fuse like that, they looked perfect but i'll have to wait until tomorrow so i can see what im doing.

 

Hmm... well, if the fuse are good then you should check the area where the fuse is inserted to make sure you have 12 volts sitting there. We're gonna have to go deeper my man...

 

Fuses should have two little open spots in top of each. Put the probe ground to the - side of the battery and touch the probe to each of the holes in the top of the fuse. If you show power on each side, the fuse is connected through, and is good. If you show power to only 1 side, the fuse is blown. If you show no power to either side then you need to put the key in and / or rotate it to get power sent that direction.

As for the windows and sunroof, do they operate when the key is in, car is running? If so they are probably fine. As mentioned, most / all of that stuff shuts down when the key is out and the door is open.

 

the windows work just fine, the sunroof does not work period. i know that some cars have certain things shut off and not work with the doors open or the key out, but that isnt the case, the sunroof and power locks and reaerview mirror lights stopped working after he fucked up the HU installation, and the hazards only work with the key in, which i assume isnt how it should be.

 

Everyone keeps telling you to check the fuses, but if the fuses were blown the POWER door locks would not work at all...Even when the key was in the ignition how you done in the video. If there's not a working fuse to supply power then there wouldn't be "power" locks would they? When those locks do what they do in that video that is obviously not a manual feature happening.
There has to be some type of wiring issue, not just a fuse. If it was just a fuse then the locks would not work at all with or with out the key in the ignition.

Im still guessing something to do the the ETACS unit. But im no expert.

If you want to meet up sometime tomorrow you can borrow that service manual. Just txt me.

 

You see... That's not true man. Some of the equipment in your car has different power souces. Just because the fuse is or isn't blown doesn't mean it won't work. Take your anti theft system for instance. It takes power from four different fuses. If one is blown then it will stil work... Just not under certain conditions. That is why I asked him to check the locks while the door was open. The sunroof takes power from three different power sources as well. Did you ever notice how if you hold the electronic window open and take out the key it wil still go up? Or did you notice you can stil operate the locks without the key in the ignition? That right there shows you that they receive different power sources depending on the circumstances. The best thing you an do right now lethal is make sure your door locks work with the key out. That will help me narrow down your problem. Give me a chance I've ben doing this for over 10 years.

 

i got the manuals from wright06 today so im gunna give those a try sometimes after wednesday when i have time.

 

to sum up:

ignition on (doors shut) - locks work normally, sunroof doesnt move at all, lights on rearview mirror dont work

ignition on (doors open) - locks only do what they did in the vid, sunroof doesnt move at all, lights on rearview mirror dont work

ignition off - nothing at all works.

 

Try looking at the ETACS ECU. At B2N10 my locks and windows were not working, along with a few other things. Found that the ETACS-ECU came lose. It was like half pluged in. I would check that, just to make sure and to rule it out.

Solar, you have been a huge help to him here. +1

ETACS-ECU is the one pluged in behind the inside fue panel

 

No prob bro, I appreciate the rep. Besides, I know I'll need some engine help in the future! I'll be suprised if its the ETACS though.