Welcome back! :wavey:

Just buy a good 0-awg cable with a ring terminal on it. It doesn't have to be from Mitsu. Knukoncepts makes a good cable. You can also order a big-3 kit from Ken on this site; he makes it pre-fabricated so all you have to do is bolt it in.

 

:agreed:

All you'll really need is about 8" of 0 awg wire, a neg battery terminal and a ring terminal to replace that entire thing.

 

Thank you for welcoming me!! You guys are always so wonderful to me. I'll be posting something fun in the very near future that I hope you'll all help support me on, too. I know you'll like it!

Anywho, this is my boyfriend's reply:

"Can u ask what u should do with the terminal in the middle of the wire that grounds the frame? (Or shock tower)?? That's what I'm most concerned with."

And may that be related, Jaloosk, to "Ken's big-3 kit" that you mentioned? Does he put everything together for you? And if so, could you link me to the tread?

You are all my heroes!

 

You replace that terminal. That's why you would need the new ring terminal. It goes from battery negative to the strut tower ground point. And the other wire goes from that ground point to the engine ground. In the big 3 ken sells Both of those are replaced, along with the alt to battery positive wire.

 

do you really need a 0ga wire? i thought the factory stuff was 4ga.

anyways, you can just cut that connector.

when i bought mine, the battery-to ground wire was nearly falling apart, so i cut it off, and used a premade section bought from a auto parts store. i then used the same bolt that the engine ground uses, i just added the new cable on top of it..

you can kind of see it in this pic if you zoom in on that area:

 

Make sure you're on BARE SHINY metal, bolt it down, then spray paint the area around the bare metal connection and on the cable end as well to ensure it's sealed from corrosion.

Check that the battery terminals are firmly attached as well. Audio power cable can be had for cheap and works fine for ground cabling. Ken's big-three kit is good, PM him and I'm sure he can whip together just the ground portion for you to buy.

 

For the record, the factory cabling is 8awg. Do as bitter suggests...make sure the metal is shiny (not rusty or painted) then paint it after you secure the ground. The bigger the wire (on the ground) the better. Minimum 4awg; 2 or 0 awg would be ideal. If you have to move the frame ground point, make sure you move the engine-to-frame ground point along with it.

 

For what it's worth, I have left over piece of 4 gauge wire that I will make in to a grounding strap for you for $10 shipped. It'll be pretty just like my big III kits. If you have a battery with side posts or think you can make it fit, I have a short piece of zero gauge (14") I can make in to a grounding strap for you for cheap too. PM me

 

Thanks guys! He said we're going to make one since he already has some cable. We were thinking it would be easier to buy one the way the factory one was made. But all the things you're suggesting make sense. I'll let you know if we have any problems!

 

Sounds like a plan, GL and hope it all works out.

 

Running a fatter alternator and starter power wire can really help in these sub zero chicago winters, in addition to the stronger grounds.

 

:agreed:

 

+2

 

I don't worry about hard starts with two 128ah batteries in the back and a red top under the hood haha

 

Ever get it fixed Heather?

 

Similar problem

Hi folks. New guy here and I've got a similar issue. A while back I had to replace the battery and Sears removed the factory negative terminal connector due to corrosion and put a generic one on there. I had never paid close enough attention to realize that the factory one was a specific ring connector versus the generic bolt on that they threw on there. Anyway, had cranking issues, AAA came out and threw a new generic on...worked for a while and then had the same issue. Vibrations, etc must work it loose. The clue light finally came on and I realized "there must be a specific connector that Mitsubishi makes for this car and I'm going to have issues until I get it." Mitsubishi dealer only sells the whole wire assembly for just under $300. Not interested in spending that much. Wires look good...just need the connector to battery. Found the ring connector to battery on eBay but now I see that the end that connects to wire has a bolt there that must need to bolt onto a ring connector on the wire. I now have bare wire bolted into that generic connector where they must have cut off the ring connector. The other end of the wire is bare wire crimped into a connector bolted in at the fender. Out the other side is wire crimped that goes down to the engine ground I guess? Haven't dug through the plastic coverings, etc to see where that goes. So I know I can get a wire with ring connector, but what would be the easiest way to handle that other end where it's crimped in and bolted? Or would you recommend replacing all that? What is the kit that Ken has and would it solve this? Thanks for any help.